Topic: Dana 30 or 44?

[neale_rs]

A quick question:

How well do Spicer 5-760x u-joints hold up with a front locker, alloy shafts, and 35" tires?  I'll probably use them with 33" tires but may some day step up to 35"s.

If the Spicer joints would be kind of borderline, I would seriously consider getting some RCV shafts.

Thanks

[FourbangerYJ]

A quick question:

How well do Spicer 5-760x u-joints hold up with a front locker, alloy shafts, and 35" tires?  I'll probably use them with 33" tires but may some day step up to 35"s.

If the Spicer joints would be kind of borderline, I would seriously consider getting some RCV shafts.

Thanks

The Spicer joints are the best off the shelf reasonable priced joint (IMO). They do hold up well. The alloy shafts come with full circle clips and that helps keep the caps in place much better than the C clips. The alloy shafts are much harder than stock shafts so the ears don't get egged out like the stockers. I wouldn't say they are border line. It all depends on how you drive and if the front gets wedged. Plus backing up in 4WD try to make sure the tires are pointed straight. Seems like the joints break much easier when the steering is turned. More so at full lock. I have seen more joints break backing up than going forward.

There are a couple of choices for middle of the road  joints. J.E. Reel has a real nice joint that still has needle bearings. I ran those for a while before I went to the Bobby Long joints. The H20 proof from J.E. are or where around $80 each. They are a cold forged high alloy joint. They come pre-lubed with the same nasty sticky  grease that the CTM's come with. It's real good stuff.
The other choice is Superior. They have a joint with needle bearings to. I don't know much about them and have not run them.

[neale_rs]

Thanks for the great info.  The JE Reel joints sound like a good way to go.  I recently read about the new Superior joints but haven't been able to find them with any vendors.  If u-joints will work fine, I'll probably scrap the RCV idea and save some $.

Thanks

[FourbangerYJ]

Thanks for the great info.  The JE Reel joints sound like a good way to go.  I recently read about the new Superior joints but haven't been able to find them with any vendors.  If u-joints will work fine, I'll probably scrap the RCV idea and save some $.

Thanks

If you were going to go with the super premium joints the RCV's might be a bit cheaper. Prices vary on the cromo-shaft brands. The CTM's are a nice joint, but they sure have a hefty price tag. That is why I went with the Bobby Long joint. A fair amount cheaper, but still spendy!

I had all my stuff cryo'ed. Not sure if it helps or not. The research I did made me believe there was some gains in doing so. Since I was buying the parts as I could afford them, I waited until I had everything then sent it all off to be frozen. Including ball joints, lock outs, shafts,R&P's everything that could be frozen.

I think the J.E. Reel joints are cryo'ed. If you call Jim the owner answers the phone. He can tell you if they have or not. There web site is pretty poor. Jim is not much of a computer guy. But he will answer any question over the phone. He is a wealth of info!

[neale_rs]

I don't know of any nearby cryo service around here, but if it's not too expensive it would be good to try.  But with my 33s, I probably don't need all that much to run reliably.  The reason for these questions is because I´m trying to finalize my front axle upgrade.  It's now between build up the D30 or get a high pinion D44 that reuses the D30 outers.  My 2 main objectives are not to give up the high pinion and to keep it very reliable with a front locker.  Thanks again.

[aw12345]

My yellow TJ has seen plenty of trail abuse on 35's for several years and the Superior EVO's with the spicer 760 joins have held up fine

[Jeffy]

I don't know of any nearby cryo service around here, but if it's not too expensive it would be good to try.  But with my 33s, I probably don't need all that much to run reliably.  The reason for these questions is because I´m trying to finalize my front axle upgrade.  It's now between build up the D30 or get a high pinion D44 that reuses the D30 outers.  My 2 main objectives are not to give up the high pinion and to keep it very reliable with a front locker.  Thanks again.

Just use the 760's.  They're cheap and you can carry spares if you're worried.  I doubt you'll ever need them though.

[Jeffy]

Lets keep all these similar questions in one theread since they don't really pertain to any one Member.

[neale_rs]

Thanks, I'm just now getting around to a front locker.

[neale_rs]

My yellow TJ has seen plenty of trail abuse on 35's for several years and the Superior EVO's with the spicer 760 joins have held up fine

This is good to know.  There is an ARB, Superior shaft package that is actually about the cheapest way to go (at least down here in Monterrey).  If it has worked fine for you, I think I'll just go with this.

Thanks for the recommendations.

[stan98tj]

Thanks, I'm just now getting around to a front locker.

what kind?

[neale_rs]

Most likely ARB.

[neale_rs]

I'll mention some costs.  RWK is offering a good deal.

The cost to get the parts for the D30 build down here to Monterrey would be about $2454 USD.  This is with an ARB and RCV shafts, the way I originally planned on building the D30.

RWK is offereing a high pinion D44 housing with a Yukon Zip Locker and Yukon alloy shafts for $2800 USD.  It would then cost extra to get it down here, not sure how much, still looking into it.

So it is not a direct comparison, but you can see the costs are not that different.

[neale_rs]

The shipping to the border would be about $265 USD.  RWK also offered an additional $300 discount if I send back the inner Cs.

Another factor to consider is that I could get a bit more $ back from selling the D30 4.56 gears, the open differential carrier and the axle shafts.

It turns out the RWK axle would actually be shipped from Currie.  So it sounds like it should be a quality housing build.   

Another advantage is that I could install this axle at home and not have to pay for the locker/gear installation labor.

[Jeffy]

The shipping to the border would be about $265 USD.  RWK also offered an additional $300 discount if I send back the inner Cs.

Another factor to consider is that I could get a bit more $ back from selling the D30 4.56 gears, the open differential carrier and the axle shafts.

It turns out the RWK axle would actually be shipped from Currie.  So it sounds like it should be a quality housing build.   

Another advantage is that I could install this axle at home and not have to pay for the locker/gear installation labor.

Just so you're aware, Currie reuses old housings.  Not that there is anything bad about it but it's something to be aware of.

If it's coming from Currie, then have you checked Currie's prices as well?