Topic: decision time need advice.

[AGUHR]

So I need someone to push me over to one choice over the other.

Teralow kit to get that all important 4:1 ratio
Or
Flat top knuckles for high steer.

I did just a m.o.r.e. higjsteer bracket on, but have been told its not a good choice as the knuckle could break now at the drilled spots.

[sharpxmen]

instead of the terralow i think you should consider a junkyard rubicon 4:1 transfer case (241OR).

[AGUHR]

Will that bolt up to the stock tranmy 5 speed?  And would my SYE fit?

[Jeffy]

instead of the terralow i think you should consider a junkyard rubicon 4:1 transfer case (241OR).

How's he going to change the input spline?  I thought you said it wasn't the same as the 2xx which are usually interchangeable.

[neale_rs]

Klune V and super short SYE if the 241OR won't work due to the 23 spline input (don't know if it can be converted to 21 spline).  The important thing is to have gearing options for a general purpose Jeep.  This is especially true in reverse if you need to rock out of sand or mud.

Also, the 241OR already has a SYE type output (fixed yoke) so no need to buy one or swap it over.

[AGUHR]

No room for a doubler or klune V, but that would be nice.

[neale_rs]

It's been done before and it fits.  But it will be more expensive and require more mods (drive shafts and drive train rear support). 

Between your two original options, it depends on the use you give your Jeep.  If you do mostly rocks and don't need many gearing options, go for the 4:1.  If you need a more general purpose Jeep, avoid the 4:1 and upgrade the steering.  Flat top knuckles for a D30 can be expensive and may force you to get locking hubs and new outers with a different wheel bolt pattern.  An alternative is the the Tera knuckle and tie rod kit is a bit expensive but I have seen it in action.  The aluminum tie rod can get pushed back to the diff cover and it just pops back into shape, it works really well.

[AGUHR]

No mud for me. Mainly slow moving obstacles. Some hills, but not to many.

I find myself burning my clutch a lot on rocks. I'm leaning 4:1 if I can get a response on the high steer bracket and its weakness to the knuckle.

[sharpxmen]

How's he going to change the input spline?  I thought you said it wasn't the same as the 2xx which are usually interchangeable.

you're right, didn't cross my mind

well, replace the AX5 while at it

[rcrovo1]

so if he did the ax15 swap he could mate the 241OR transfer case? something to think about as i am going ax15 in mine.

[sharpxmen]

so if he did the ax15 swap he could mate the 241OR transfer case? something to think about as i am going ax15 in mine.

i don't know if AX15 will take it (i can't remember the output tailhousing on it), splines are the same - NV3550 or NSG370 would take it, AX15 you'll have to check but technically should work (don't see why not but since i never had an AX15 i can't tell for sure).

[Jeffy]

An AX-15 would be a 23 Spline which IIRC is the same for the NV3500

[neale_rs]

I heard through the grapvine  that you ordered the TeraLow.  It makes a big difference, I know a local jeeper that has had one for at least 5 years in his TJ and it works great on the rocks. 

[sharpxmen]

An AX-15 would be a 23 Spline which IIRC is the same for the NV3500

you're right they are all 23 splines but the tailhousing is different on AX15 compared to NV3550 or NSG370, i remember this when i did my D300 swap i went with the NV3550 as it is deeper at the output shaft, i think with the AX15 you might need a spacer or to remove the seal on the AX15 and use the D300 mating to seal the transmission (so that the D300 input shaft has more room and not use a spacer instead), not sure if there are any issues with the 241OR or not, i have no idea.

EDIT: just did some reading and apparently there are 3 options when going with a D300 and an AX15
 1. spacer
 2. remove the output seal and use a gasket and rtv to seal between the D300 and AX15
 3. cut the D300 input retainer and use a sealed bearing (NSK 6209 DDU for example)

for option 2 and 3 you might need to zip-cut the output shaft on the AX15 a little (or grind) so it won't bottom into the D300 input shaft

none of these need to be done with the NV3550 or the NSG370

the 241OR has a shorter input than the D300 but i don't know if it's short enough to fit the AX15 (they were never coupled together from factory), so you might need to do some measuring to confirm - just from memory i think it might fit