Author Topic: knocking in 4wd  (Read 8261 times)

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Offline stan98tj

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knocking in 4wd
« on: December 31, 2012, 07:16:28 AM »
New noise the jeep has been making recently. When I engage 4wd, i get some type of "thunking" or knocking from the front end. Doesn't happen in 2wd...if it does, it's too low or faint for me to feel or hear. 4wd does work, it's just that I'm not sure where this noise is from. I grabbed the front driveshaft and it didn't seem to have any play in it. Could it be a blown hub? Bad drive shaft? Would 4wd engage if it were a bad hub?
98 TJ 35"Maxxis Trep.Old Man Emu 2.5""+1"BL,IronMan Fab control arms,4.56gears,Ford 8.8+ARB,Currie/IronMan steering, WARN VR10,HP D30 sleeved+ RCV,Body Armor Rock Rails WISHLIST:TDi.Girlfriend hates it :) If you can read this don't flip me over i dont have any $$ left to fix it

Offline Jeffy

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Re: knocking in 4wd
« Reply #1 on: December 31, 2012, 12:06:20 PM »
Are you turning when it knocks?
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Offline sharpxmen

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Re: knocking in 4wd
« Reply #2 on: December 31, 2012, 12:41:54 PM »
bushings on control arms maybe (or the joints if you upgraded)

is it knocking when you engage or when you start from standstill (anyway, i mean details on when the knock occurs).
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Offline stan98tj

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Re: knocking in 4wd
« Reply #3 on: December 31, 2012, 04:54:47 PM »
turning doesn't affect it, knocks either way. the knocking slows down as I slow down, loud at first and then sorta subsides a bit (but that could be cause I may not hear it as well while driving?)
98 TJ 35"Maxxis Trep.Old Man Emu 2.5""+1"BL,IronMan Fab control arms,4.56gears,Ford 8.8+ARB,Currie/IronMan steering, WARN VR10,HP D30 sleeved+ RCV,Body Armor Rock Rails WISHLIST:TDi.Girlfriend hates it :) If you can read this don't flip me over i dont have any $$ left to fix it

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: knocking in 4wd
« Reply #4 on: December 31, 2012, 05:55:29 PM »
so is it 1 knock or repetitive (i assume that's what you mean by slowing down as you slow down). in that case i say a u-joint or R&P

one thing you can do is suspend the front and and keep it in 2wd, rotate each wheel and see if you hear something (lift 1 wheel at the time if you have an open diff or selectable so the d/s rotates) and if the knock is there try to figure out where it comes from (a buddy rotating the wheel would come in handy here).
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Offline Bounty Hunter

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Re: knocking in 4wd
« Reply #5 on: December 31, 2012, 09:46:19 PM »
Could be a worn chain in the transfer case, they can slap the inside of the case when in 4wd.

Offline stan98tj

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Re: knocking in 4wd
« Reply #6 on: January 01, 2013, 03:59:17 AM »
Update:
New Years day, I'm on my way home at about 1am and I get on the highway, at about 50mph I feel a very strong and loud vibration pulsing through the entire cab. I reduce speed to about 40, seems to be ok and then gets worse until a series of loud knocks, bangs and shakes and the sound of metal scraping on metal forces me to pull over. ATF fluid is pouring from under the jeep, pieces of my transfer case are laying in the transmission skid. Time to call the first tow of the year, i'll have to wait til daylight to remove the skid....happy F*&%ING new year.
98 TJ 35"Maxxis Trep.Old Man Emu 2.5""+1"BL,IronMan Fab control arms,4.56gears,Ford 8.8+ARB,Currie/IronMan steering, WARN VR10,HP D30 sleeved+ RCV,Body Armor Rock Rails WISHLIST:TDi.Girlfriend hates it :) If you can read this don't flip me over i dont have any $$ left to fix it

Offline neale_rs

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Re: knocking in 4wd
« Reply #7 on: January 01, 2013, 08:11:29 AM »
Sorry to hear that. 

'95 YJ, 33 x 12.5 mud tires, RE 4.5 ED lift, Atlas 4 speed, rear D44, ARBs front and rear, 4.56 gears, 8000# winch

Offline stan98tj

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Re: knocking in 4wd
« Reply #8 on: January 01, 2013, 10:41:40 AM »
Sorry to hear that. 



Just Empty Every Pocket? been my new years resolution since 2007 ;)
98 TJ 35"Maxxis Trep.Old Man Emu 2.5""+1"BL,IronMan Fab control arms,4.56gears,Ford 8.8+ARB,Currie/IronMan steering, WARN VR10,HP D30 sleeved+ RCV,Body Armor Rock Rails WISHLIST:TDi.Girlfriend hates it :) If you can read this don't flip me over i dont have any $$ left to fix it

Offline Jeffy

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Re: knocking in 4wd
« Reply #9 on: January 01, 2013, 11:46:36 AM »
Well, I think the knocking was the first clue to not drive it.  :wall:
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline stan98tj

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Re: knocking in 4wd
« Reply #10 on: January 01, 2013, 11:56:22 AM »
Well, I think the knocking was the first clue to not drive it.  :wall:
it was only doing it in 4wd at first...then it did it in 2wd, but i was already on the highway then  :whistle:
98 TJ 35"Maxxis Trep.Old Man Emu 2.5""+1"BL,IronMan Fab control arms,4.56gears,Ford 8.8+ARB,Currie/IronMan steering, WARN VR10,HP D30 sleeved+ RCV,Body Armor Rock Rails WISHLIST:TDi.Girlfriend hates it :) If you can read this don't flip me over i dont have any $$ left to fix it

Offline stan98tj

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Re: knocking in 4wd
« Reply #11 on: January 01, 2013, 11:58:26 AM »
OK, so the case is grenaded. I have pics ill put up later. I'd like to know what my options are.
Can i run any t-case out of a TJ? I have a 3spd auto, by the way.

Also, is there any way for me to run a Rubicon case? I've also heard of the terra four low kit. Any opinions? If i can't run a rubi, could i gear the stock case to have 4:1 like a rubi?
98 TJ 35"Maxxis Trep.Old Man Emu 2.5""+1"BL,IronMan Fab control arms,4.56gears,Ford 8.8+ARB,Currie/IronMan steering, WARN VR10,HP D30 sleeved+ RCV,Body Armor Rock Rails WISHLIST:TDi.Girlfriend hates it :) If you can read this don't flip me over i dont have any $$ left to fix it

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: knocking in 4wd
« Reply #12 on: January 01, 2013, 12:18:29 PM »
i think the rubi would work, never measured to see if there's any difference between transmissions at the output shaft and housing (as far as clearance for the t-case input) but from what i recall the NSG and NV3550 are very similar (same depth roughly) - i have both in my garage and i can do some checking/measuring if you really considering it. The things that i think would need attention would be the driveshaft (rear) and the speed sensor (different inpulses/mile). Possibly the t-case shifter as well but that's probably easy to adapt (if there's any difference, i'm not sure).  

EDIT: i can't remember if you have a 6 cyl or a 4 cyl, if the latter forget about the rubi t-case, you need the transmission as well.
« Last Edit: January 01, 2013, 12:19:56 PM by sharpxmen »
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Offline stan98tj

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Re: knocking in 4wd
« Reply #13 on: January 01, 2013, 12:35:37 PM »
i think the rubi would work, never measured to see if there's any difference between transmissions at the output shaft and housing (as far as clearance for the t-case input) but from what i recall the NSG and NV3550 are very similar (same depth roughly) - i have both in my garage and i can do some checking/measuring if you really considering it. The things that i think would need attention would be the driveshaft (rear) and the speed sensor (different inpulses/mile). Possibly the t-case shifter as well but that's probably easy to adapt (if there's any difference, i'm not sure).  

EDIT: i can't remember if you have a 6 cyl or a 4 cyl, if the latter forget about the rubi t-case, you need the transmission as well.

I def have the venerable 4cyl + 3spd auto. So i take it the Rubi is a not an option? I thought the 3spd 4 banger trany had 23 spline like the rubi?
98 TJ 35"Maxxis Trep.Old Man Emu 2.5""+1"BL,IronMan Fab control arms,4.56gears,Ford 8.8+ARB,Currie/IronMan steering, WARN VR10,HP D30 sleeved+ RCV,Body Armor Rock Rails WISHLIST:TDi.Girlfriend hates it :) If you can read this don't flip me over i dont have any $$ left to fix it

Offline Jeffy

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Re: knocking in 4wd
« Reply #14 on: January 01, 2013, 12:51:56 PM »
I think the rubi might be a possibility. Your auto and the 4.0L transmissions use a 23 spline long shaft.  Not only do you have to match the spline count but also the spline length. Early cut and late cut relate to YJ's and TJ's, IIRC. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np_nvg_input_gears.htm

For any other NP/NVG 231 you can mix and match to get it to work.  You just need to swap your input shaft and possibly the rear housing and output shaft.  -J is for Jeep, -C is for Chevy, D- is for Dodge.  I think there's also a -HD as well that was used in the Dodge 1500.
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."