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Author Topic: Need Auto Electrician DTC 33  (Read 1860 times)

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Wheezer

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Need Auto Electrician DTC 33
« on: October 07, 2013, 05:58:00 PM »
First, the particulars...
1995 YJ SE, 4cyl, 5spd, 209k on the odometer, original engine and everything else.
I occasionally get a CE light with accompanying DTC33 code. This would usually happen during long periods of throttle closed driving (long down hills) but it has started to occur more frequently even around town. According to the FSM DTC33 indicates that I have a short/open in the A/C clutch relay circuit. I double checked the build sheet and my Jeep has NEVER had air-conditioning installed. I checked the PDC anyway and yup no relay installed in the A/C relay slot so there is definitely an open there. Now for the fun part, now that it is happening on a regular basis I am paying closer attention and have discovered that my volt meter is all over the place: 9v indicated, 14v indicated, sometimes 13, sometimes 12 (this is while the engine is running). I was, in my very limited knowledge, thinking that I may have a dying voltage regulator on the generator (that's what the FSM called it not an alternator). Oh yeah, the volt meter reads a steady 12v when the switch is in the "ON" position, not run. Thoughts? Ideas? Thanks for your help.

Wheezer
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Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Need Auto Electrician DTC 33
« Reply #1 on: October 07, 2013, 07:46:24 PM »
voltage regulator is built-in the PCM, so it's either the alternator failing or the PCM is on its way out (this one could explain the ghost code)

i'd start with the alternator since it's the easier of the 2
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'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Offline oldjeep

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Re: Need Auto Electrician DTC 33
« Reply #2 on: October 07, 2013, 08:15:08 PM »
FWIW, you will always get a 33 code in a YJ with no air.  Something else is causing the ce light to come on.
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Chuck P
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: Need Auto Electrician DTC 33
« Reply #3 on: October 07, 2013, 08:43:25 PM »
Quote from: oldjeep on October 07, 2013, 08:15:08 PM
FWIW, you will always get a 33 code in a YJ with no air.  Something else is causing the ce light to come on.
Yup, 12, 33 and 55 will always come up.
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Wheezer

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Re: Need Auto Electrician DTC 33
« Reply #4 on: October 07, 2013, 10:19:31 PM »
Always a 33 code, huh? I did not know that. Thanks for the info. Trouble shooting takes a new direction. I will get the alt/gen checked just to eliminate that as a suspect. Now to price a PCM just in case. Thanks again guys.

Wheezer
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Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Need Auto Electrician DTC 33
« Reply #5 on: October 07, 2013, 10:32:01 PM »
i have a '95 YJ and didn't get code 33, had TPS and O2 sensor codes before.
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'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Offline neale_rs

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Re: Need Auto Electrician DTC 33
« Reply #6 on: October 08, 2013, 09:44:41 AM »
I read up on CEL codes and there are several types.  Some make the light stay on until the PCM is reset or you do a lot of starts without the fault happening again.  Others make the light come on only until the Jeep is turned off, then if the fault does not occur again, the CEL will not turn on again.  Others only get stored if the fault happens withing certain conditions, like over some specific RPM or when the engine is fully warmed up, etc, but not otherwise.  I've been getting some check engine lights lately but no relevant code is being stored (just for things that I don't have) and the light does not stay on all the time, only during that run. 

My recommendation is to use a scanner to read the codes before the engine is turned off, while the CEL is still lit.  I might have this done soon....but the Jeep is running great, so why worry.  :trollface:

The unstable voltage may be due to several things and it might not be real, it would be best to use another voltmeter to double check before doing anything else.

 


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'95 YJ, 33 x 12.5 mud tires, RE 4.5 ED lift, Atlas 4 speed, rear D44, ARBs front and rear, 4.56 gears, 8000# winch

Offline grumpygy

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Re: Need Auto Electrician DTC 33
« Reply #7 on: October 08, 2013, 11:05:03 AM »
As for the Voltage how old are your cables.  Could be a weak ground.
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Wheezer

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Re: Need Auto Electrician DTC 33
« Reply #8 on: October 08, 2013, 11:19:47 AM »
Yeah, I hooked up my code reader while it was still running and the display was a DTC33. Yup, checking the grounds is on my agenda. The Wheezer is running great considering the odometer reading, and I noticed this morning on the drive in to work that the voltage meter is rock steady at 14v. But the CEL is on contantly. The mystery continues...
Thanks for all your suggestions, definitely things to look into.

Wheezer
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Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Need Auto Electrician DTC 33
« Reply #9 on: October 08, 2013, 11:56:22 AM »
just reset it and see if it comes back.
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'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Offline jfrabat

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Re: Need Auto Electrician DTC 33
« Reply #10 on: October 10, 2013, 08:45:24 AM »
Just so you are aware, the voltmeter on the dash is not exactly accurate, and many things can affect it.  Mine drops to 10V if I turn my AC fan (regardles if the AC is on or not) to full, but if you read with a digital voltmeter, the voltage is perfectly fine (I think I have a bad ground or something somewhere).
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'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Superwinch EPi9.0, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-5.13, 165A alt., 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Hydroboost

Wheezer

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Re: Need Auto Electrician DTC 33 (UPDATE!)
« Reply #11 on: October 19, 2013, 01:13:32 PM »
Keeping an eye on my voltmeter I noticed that the voltage was continuing to fall so I had the charging system checked at the local O'Reilley's. The battery checked good but with a low state of charge, the start cycle checked good with no issues, but the alternator checked bad with low output voltage. So I stooped by my local NAPA store (lifetime warranty) and installed a new alternator (90amp). The CEL is gone and the indash voltmeter is steady at 14vdc when running. I think I found the problem.

Wheezer
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Offline jfrabat

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Re: Need Auto Electrician DTC 33 (UPDATE!)
« Reply #12 on: October 19, 2013, 01:38:19 PM »
Quote from: Wheezer on October 19, 2013, 01:13:32 PM
Keeping an eye on my voltmeter I noticed that the voltage was continuing to fall so I had the charging system checked at the local O'Reilley's. The battery checked good but with a low state of charge, the start cycle checked good with no issues, but the alternator checked bad with low output voltage. So I stooped by my local NAPA store (lifetime warranty) and installed a new alternator (90amp). The CEL is gone and the indash voltmeter is steady at 14vdc when running. I think I found the problem.

Wheezer

glad to hear it!
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'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Superwinch EPi9.0, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-5.13, 165A alt., 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Hydroboost

Offline neale_rs

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Re: Need Auto Electrician DTC 33
« Reply #13 on: October 19, 2013, 07:30:50 PM »
Good to know it got solved.
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'95 YJ, 33 x 12.5 mud tires, RE 4.5 ED lift, Atlas 4 speed, rear D44, ARBs front and rear, 4.56 gears, 8000# winch
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