Topic: Soa lift

[Da_Skunk]

I've looked but can't find the answer. When going SOA with a AX5 is a YSE needed. Is it a issue.

[Jeffy]

It really depends.  SOA or SUA doesn't matter.  What matters is how much actual lift you're adding.  A SOA will give you around 4.5-5.5".  Though seeing as how cheap SYEs are and really a SOA on stock springs is pretty cheap as well, I'd plan on doing it.

[Da_Skunk]

Yes I'm thinking SOA on stock springs, so I'd be up 4" to 5" and sye's are not that expensive only one's I can find are for the NP.
I have a AX5
Think I'll need it?

[sharpxmen]

you need an SYE or a t-case drop (at the expense of skid clearance), you won't get away without one of those (no way at 5'' of lift) - I mean you might be able to run it but will be an adventure (most likely vibrating and eventually breaking something since your slip yoke won't slip anymore but more pulling on the t-case output since your d/s is at a steeper angle).

[Jeffy]

Yes I'm thinking SOA on stock springs, so I'd be up 4" to 5" and sye's are not that expensive only one's I can find are for the NP.
I have a AX5
Think I'll need it?

I would.  Though I've run +4.5" without and had to do a lot of other things to compensate for it which would have been better spent getting a SYE. Though at that time SYE's weren't dirt cheap like they are now.  Do the SYE and the CV Driveshaft and be done with it.

[Da_Skunk]

Thanks for the input I'm not totaly convinced I'll go SOA.

I'm learning about my jeep and what I want vs. what is needed.

[Jeffy]

Thanks for the input I'm not totaly convinced I'll go SOA.

I'm learning about my jeep and what I want vs. what is needed.

If you buy a custom leaf pack from Deaver or National Springs, you won't need an SOA.  I went SOA on the front since it cost me next to nothing to do since I was already lifted.  If I do the suspension again, I'm probably going to go SUA with custom leafs and be done with it.

http://www.nationalsprings.com/leafSprings.html

http://www.deaverspring.com/

[VA_YJ]

Yo Skunk, the SYE (slip yoke eliminator) replaces the output shaft of the transfer case (e.g., NP231).  There is no AX5 SYE.  As others have pointed out, you'll need a new double cardan (aka CV) driveshaft which has slip built into the shaft.  The rear pinion angle will need to be adjusted to move the pinion up (about 1 degree below pointing straight at the rear output of the transfer case).  You can use steel shims or relocate the spring pads on the rear axle.

[Da_Skunk]

Thanks, I figured that out. I had not been under the jeep in a while and like I said I'm learning.

[jagular7]

Research heavily for the properly designed complete SOA is not readily available from the aftermarket mfs for a yj. Not only is the location of the leads require modification,  but driveshafts, brake lines, parking brake cable, and steering.

If you are learning of your jeep, it's a big jump to get into a SOA. I would suggest to learn the capabilities and incompatibilities of you and your jeep. Work on upgrades to deficiencies. If you do decide to go SOA, you'll probably be going larger, much larger tires which has big impact to the performance and handling of the stock driveline. In addition, stock driveline will require modification and upgrades as well. The SYE is a good start.

Have fun. Thee are enjoyable!

[sharpxmen]

lot easier to get a Rough Country lift kit as a starter (SUA), won't require as many involved mods (re-welding perches for one) and it's better on axle wrap, i bought a 4'' one and so far the springs are fine, no complaints, the shocks I think are not great (i never used the rear ones as i needed different length and the fronts feel like they're going now) but from what i recall you can order upgraded ones from them (not the generic) or you can just use the generic ones and get upgrades when they go (the kit has everything you need including drop pitman arm).

[FourbangerYJ]

If you buy a custom leaf pack from Deaver or National Springs, you won't need an SOA.  I went SOA on the front since it cost me next to nothing to do since I was already lifted.  If I do the suspension again, I'm probably going to go SUA with custom leafs and be done with it.

http://www.nationalsprings.com/leafSprings.html

http://www.deaverspring.com/

Deaver has or at one time had some 4 inch springs ready to go. I ran them front and rear until I did my stretch and had them build me some custom rears.
 The off the shelf springs are very nice springs. I think they have 10 leafs. Not cheap, but with all the money I spent on other brands I could have done these once and been money ahead.
Jeff the owner of Deaver has a 4 banger YJ. They are real nice people!

[RNandKT]

I did a Spring over on my YJ quite a few years back. When I did it, I angled the rear axle up a bit and made a home made  1" transfer case drop and I didn't have driveline vibes.

I have done several setups on leaf sprung Jeeps (CJ's and YJ's) and there are some really nice setups SUA that worked really well, (the monoleaf setup, deavers, etc) but were pretty expensive. A cheap lift kit on a YJ will always ride rough and wont flex much. For cheap, the SOA in my oppinion is the way to go on a YJ, lots of flex and they ride pretty well. But you have to put your research into the setup. Leaf spring selection, shackle location, anti wrap bar, axle caster, and shock selection and different combinations will all heavily effect whether it's a good setup or a deathtrap on wheels.


That being said you will have to have an antiwrap setup of some kind or you will have really bad axle wrap and break drivelines. And it is hard to beat coil suspensions, which is why I have a TJ now.

To be honest the driveline vibration should be the last thing you are worrying about if your doing a SOA.

[sharpxmen]

if you get the angle wrong will vibrate a lot (esp from a standstill), it is a common problem and also multiplied when SOA due to more wrap, i doubt it will work without a t-case drop or SYE. I agree with the anti-wrap bar. For shocks you can relocate the lower shock mounts on top, since you keep the stock leafs should just be offset by the amount of lift (you have to cut and weld new perches anyway). Steering linkage would be another concern, something with the clearance over the leafs if i recall correctly. imo, when you're all done, will cost more than a bolt on SUA kit and be more involved.

I wonder if SOA on stock leafs (without add-a-leaf) in front would make it unstable under breaking (I'm asking, i don't know the answer).

[dwtaylorpdx]

A local shop here used to do a lot of SOA conversions.

The setup the owner used was a Old Man Emu stock height springs on the SOA's.
Their leaf count is higher and supposedly kept the axle wrap somewhat under control.

You NEED to keep the swaybar for the street with a SOA on a YJ, use disconnects off road.
It prevents bad things when braking hard. (Had a couple 9.0 pucker factor events in mine without the sway bar.. )

The track bar is a good thing if you do long drives, But a higher
end unit will be required to keep the geometry from being screwed up.
Its does not have the affect of the swaybar, I'm running 4" of SUA lift and it
does not seem to be a big issue.

Just more data...