Topic: Greasable shackles

[Jeffy]

Well, my greasable shackles are working out great but there is one problem...  now, I've got mild bumpsteer again!    

[sharpxmen]

do you have the trackbar in front?

[Jeffy]

I might get around to adding it but I'm not certain.  I've got another 700 mile road trip next month and I'm planning on taking the Jeep.

[sharpxmen]

i know when my track bar bolt broke at the axle was all over the place, put it back on and it settled down. had the rear track bar off for quite a while and was ok but pretty bad with side wind or corners, added that back in and it's going straight again.

EDIT: i'd suggest going with poly bushings at the track bar as well, use plenty of grease on them so they won't bind and will keep the suspension flexing ok - i have poly at the frame and heim at the axle in the rear and it's flexing pretty easy (of course still holds a little compared to no track bar but in my case the benefits are worth it).

[dwtaylorpdx]

I took the track bars off my 95 in 95. Left the sway bar on, pretty happy in general ,, Have Poly bushings in the springs, and stock in the frame, Original version black diamond shocks.

I wonder what combinations work and don't work.

The track bar made my YJ undrivable on washboard.

Without the swaybar its was a handful under hard braking all over the place..

[sharpxmen]

i think the more lift you have the more need for track bars, and probably SOA with less curve on the leafs is better w/o trackbars than a leaf with more curvature. I should mention that I also have lift shackles as well so that makes it even worse.

[Wheezer]

 I perused the responses here and didn't see it so though I may be stating the obvious, sometimes the obvious needs stating...
When you tightened your spring/shackle bolts after installation, was the Jeep on jacks? If so then you need to loosen then re tighten with weight on wheels. If they were tightened with weight off wheels it will cause a whole host of suspension/handling ills, including mild bump steer. While we're stating the obvious, as long as you have your torque wrench in hand go ahead and hit your lug nuts one good time. Loose lug nuts will give you some front end shimmy too.
If I have insulted your mechanical skills, please accept my sincere apology. No offense was intended.

Wheezer

[jagular7]

You really shouldn't have to use a track bar with leafs. If the track bar is not adjustable, with its fixed length, you may be putting the suspension into a bind with its own weight. The track bar is required for locating the axle centered under the frame. Its required with a link suspension. For the front application, its required with a link suspension and a fixed steering box due to the push/pull of the effects of the steering. For the rear application, its required due to the forces created by movement of the axle up/down. Many link suspensions triangulate the links to help reduce the requirement of the track bar at either end. In the rear application, this is done quite often but the room for triangulation of the links is what makes it happen. For the front application with fixed steering box, even triangulating the links won't have complete minimization on the effects wrt to the steering forces as well as the axle movement up/down.

For having death wobble with a leaf suspension, I'd take a look at the lug nuts, unit bearing bolts, unit bearing itself, tie rod ends, ball joints, what was mentioned above with proper torque techniques of the components, and the frame/steering box itself. Add in the steering shaft and its frame mount as well. If all that appears to be in fine order, take it to an alignment shop and request a look-see if its in acceptable alignment. (That might cost 30-$40 and if you want them to alignment more.) Also have them see if the front tires are balanced.
With all this investigating, take a look at your caliper and brake pads since everything is out of the way.....LOL.

[sharpxmen]

you need trackbars with big lift (4+ inches, maybe even 3) if you drive it on the street, it's a big difference with/without as far as street manners.

[95 Lowbuck]

you need trackbars with big lift (4+ inches, maybe even 3) if you drive it on the street, it's a big difference with/without as far as street manners.

I disagree,
I run a 4" with poly bushings, no track bars, a sway bar I can disconnect,
and a drop pitman arm.
I commute 1 1/2 hours a day with no bump steer.
My steering is not as tight as I would like, for a better ride, I run my eye bolt a little loose.
Try a drop arm or a tie rod flip.

[sharpxmen]

I disagree,
I run a 4" with poly bushings, no track bars, a sway bar I can disconnect,
and a drop pitman arm.
I commute 1 1/2 hours a day with no bump steer.
My steering is not as tight as I would like, for a better ride, I run my eye bolt a little loose.
Try a drop arm or a tie rod flip.

if you can handle it then good for you, i had them off and it wonders, i had the rear off and it's crap in the corners. it's not just the bump steer. with 3.5'' of lift was more bareable, i have about 4.75'' total now (4 springs and 3/4 shackles) and i hate the way it handles w/o trackbars so it's a no-go for me. I do have a drop pitman arm.

[95 Lowbuck]

I know that all Jeeps are not created equal,
and depending on the owner, expectations are different on how well a Jeep should handle.
Mine does not even handle as good as a pickup truck, but it is predictable and consistent.
It's a trade off for a decent ride and flex on the trail.
My comment about the pitman arm and tie rod flip was for Jeffy and his bump steer problem.

[jfrabat]

I removed my rear track bar and have a JKS telescoping front trackbar which I can disconnect for offroading (not as easy as they advertise).  I think the new front trackbar is not as strong holding the axle in place as it should be, though.  You can tell the axle moves because if I turn one way, the steering wheel "center" position will shift a tiny little bit (maybe 5~10* on the steering wheel), but it is enough to make it a real PITA to do an alignment.

[Jeffy]

I ended up doing nothing.  As long as I know it's there I can work around it to minimize its effects.

[neale_rs]

A tie rod flip is a really nice mod and I think it ends up a bit better than with the drop pitman arm as far as bump steer is concerned.