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Offline bootguy

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check engine light
« on: August 18, 2016, 07:52:40 PM »
So I got off work today and went to start my Jeep.  Nothing, no click just nothing.  Had a friend come out and we jump started it, the charging gauge was reading a little high.  I then noticed that my check engine light was on.  As I drove home the speedometer was jumping all over, showing anything from 0 to 80.  once I got home I shut the engine off and tried to start it again, no joy.  I can see the gauge reading high, check engine light and not starting being caused by a dead battery  so the question is, would a bad battery cause the speedo symptoms?

1994 YJ
2.5L fuel injected
Automatic transmission
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1994 Jeep Wrangler, 2.5L, automatic, 2.5" lift, 4:88 gearing, 33" tires, 2.5" exhaust from manifold back, air restrictor removed.

Offline Jeffy

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Re: check engine light
« Reply #1 on: August 19, 2016, 01:42:32 PM »
Check for CEL codes.  That should give you a starting place. - http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,3419.0.html
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Offline bootguy

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Re: check engine light
« Reply #2 on: August 19, 2016, 06:26:17 PM »
Battery is DEAD DEAD DEAD.  went looking for a replacement battery and have narrowed it down to 2 choices Optima or Odyssey.  But I do not like the stock 6 gauge wired used for ground and charging.  Found a place local that will build a harness in 1 or 2 gauge wire that will not break the bank.  Also looking at doing an alternator upgrade at the same time.  This is in anticipation of a winch and new lighting.
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1994 Jeep Wrangler, 2.5L, automatic, 2.5" lift, 4:88 gearing, 33" tires, 2.5" exhaust from manifold back, air restrictor removed.

Offline Jeffy

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Re: check engine light
« Reply #3 on: August 20, 2016, 01:19:16 PM »
Unless you have easy access a supplier of Odyssey, I'd go Optima.  It's way easier to find.

Battery cables can be made some welding cables (welding supply) and can be had for around $1 a foot.  Beware though that the PSD has 2x 50a fuses.  You'll have to get a breaker and add a bypass straight to the battery if you want to be safe.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline neale_rs

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Re: check engine light
« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2016, 08:33:50 AM »
On my 2003 Neon the gauges go crazy when the voltage is low.

Also, just about any replacement alternator will be 90 Amp which is an upgrade from the stock, I think 75 Amp on a YJ.
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'95 YJ, 33 x 12.5 BFG MTs, RE 4.5 ED lift, Atlas 4 speed, rear D44, ARBs front and rear, 4.56 gears, 8000# winch

Offline Jeffy

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Re: check engine light
« Reply #5 on: August 22, 2016, 01:26:59 PM »
After reading it a second time, I think his battery was just dead.   The fact that it runs after a jump means the alternator works.  OBDII cars don't like running off the alternator without a battery.  Funky stuff happens when it's not seeing a battery.  ie, it's wanting to charge a dead battery that won't take a charge.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline bootguy

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Re: check engine light
« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2016, 09:09:38 PM »
It was the Gauge going crazy that threw me.  I thought it was purely mechanical, but it is electrical. There is a 4WD shop in town that sells the Odyssey line.  Price is within $25 of each other but the Odyssey has a longer shelf life according to all literature.  I know that I can make my own cables but the ones that I have looked at are better looking as they are all swaged fittings.  Was thinking of running the Jeep off of the side posts and everything else off the top posts.
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1994 Jeep Wrangler, 2.5L, automatic, 2.5" lift, 4:88 gearing, 33" tires, 2.5" exhaust from manifold back, air restrictor removed.

Offline Jeffy

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Re: check engine light
« Reply #7 on: August 23, 2016, 03:30:46 PM »
Quote from: bootguy on August 22, 2016, 09:09:38 PM
It was the Gauge going crazy that threw me.  I thought it was purely mechanical, but it is electrical. There is a 4WD shop in town that sells the Odyssey line.  Price is within $25 of each other but the Odyssey has a longer shelf life according to all literature.  I know that I can make my own cables but the ones that I have looked at are better looking as they are all swaged fittings.  Was thinking of running the Jeep off of the side posts and everything else off the top posts.
So how much are they?  I got my Blue Top for $176.  I think the Odyssey was still around $234-ish.  Hopefully, you're geting the Odyssey really cheap or else the Optima is way over priced.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline bootguy

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Re: check engine light
« Reply #8 on: August 26, 2016, 12:14:58 AM »
Yellow top is $220 (checked 4 different parts stores) and the Odyssey is $240. Optima just had a healthy price increase 2 months ago.
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1994 Jeep Wrangler, 2.5L, automatic, 2.5" lift, 4:88 gearing, 33" tires, 2.5" exhaust from manifold back, air restrictor removed.

Offline Jeffy

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Re: check engine light
« Reply #9 on: August 26, 2016, 01:21:22 PM »
Quote from: bootguy on August 26, 2016, 12:14:58 AM
Yellow top is $220 (checked 4 different parts stores) and the Odyssey is $240. Optima just had a healthy price increase 2 months ago.
You can still get a Blue Top for $176 on amazon.  That's where I got mine.  There is no difference between the blue and yellow other then posts.  I find the blue top with the marine pots better since they can handle higher loads unlike the side posts on the others.  I bought mine in May.
« Last Edit: August 26, 2016, 01:54:06 PM by Jeffy »
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline 95 Lowbuck

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Re: check engine light
« Reply #10 on: September 03, 2016, 03:47:07 PM »
Don't know about the Odyssey, but with the Optima you should not run anything that pulls
allot of amps off the side posts. It is just a thin metal strap that connects them to the top posts.
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1995 YJ RioGrand, 2.5, AX5, 231 T.C., A.A. SYE,
D30, XJ D44, Truetracs F+R, CV D.S. F+R, 4.88's
R.E. 4" STD., 33-10.50 BFG KO2's on stock rims.

Offline Jeffy

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Re: check engine light
« Reply #11 on: September 03, 2016, 05:42:25 PM »
Quote from: 95 Lowbuck on September 03, 2016, 03:47:07 PM
Don't know about the Odyssey, but with the Optima you should not run anything that pulls
allot of amps off the side posts. It is just a thin metal strap that connects them to the top posts.

The Odyssey is okay for side mounting high amp stuff.  With the Optima, they don't recommend you doing it on the regular side posts but I beleive the Marine side posts are okay as well.  I prefer the marine posts since you're going to be adding accessories and you don't have to use the screw-in adapters.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline bootguy

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Re: check engine light
« Reply #12 on: February 06, 2017, 09:44:16 PM »
  So electrical gremlins have been at it again.  Went wheeling at night and hit a good pothole, only about 2 ft deep and I lost my lights.  Figured it was the fuse or bad wiring.  Well it was the latter as when moving wires around they just started coming apart.  Luckily I was only a few miles from home and followed a friend.
  Now I have to do a lot of wiring to fix everything to be able to drive again.  I have found several wiring harnesses, but none that handle the engine side of the electrical system.  Has anyone seen or heard of an aftermarket harness that will cover the whole jeep.  The issue is the fuel injection system.
  Do the sensors (Electrical, Oil and Tach) need to be routed through the Fuel injection system sensors/controller or can I wire the gauges directly to sensors?
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1994 Jeep Wrangler, 2.5L, automatic, 2.5" lift, 4:88 gearing, 33" tires, 2.5" exhaust from manifold back, air restrictor removed.

Offline lsmurphy

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Re: check engine light
« Reply #13 on: February 07, 2017, 06:51:57 AM »
As you are finding out, Jeep wiring is atrocious. Last weekend I went through mine, rewired, new harness.
Time consuming but worth it.








Old extension cords are a good source for wire, I used 10-4 and 12-3 service cord from Lowes, about $2 per foot.

All connections are soldered, shrink wrapped.

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