Topic: Supercharger questions - any help appreciated

[sharpxmen]

Hi all,
I got my custom s/c turning for the first time last weekend. It is an Opcon Autorotor 1.13L/rev (i think) same kind Kenne-Bell and Avenger uses. I purchased it off ebay summer of 2005 and it was just the core - didn't even had the pulley. I bought the pulley from Kenne-Bell, i chose the 3'' one as i thought it will give me about 4-5 psi. I fabbed a mounting plate that bolts on where the A/C stock goes and used the A/C second idler to route the belt (i end up with a 101'' belt length). I ran it for a test and anytime goes in boost it runs lean (which i expected). I have seen the boost gauge jumping up to 7 psi so i need to adjust the bypass valve a little (this one was a cheap buy from ebay, i am not impressed with it).  
I had to also add a 1'' body lift (did it on Sunday) as the way i installed it the bypass valve end up just barely touching the hood (i wanted to do the body lift anyway so that was just the thing i needed to get motivated enough  :D ).
I took some pics while i had the first test run, so if anyone is interested to see my custom setup i can post them somewhere - let me know.
I need some help on tuning it properly so i would appreciate any help and suggestions with the following:
 - MAP sensor (2-bar) - would just replacing the stock one give me the extra fuel needed for boost condition? any suggestions as far as brand, P/Ns, prices would be greately appreciated.
 - Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator - stock 2.5 has 31 psi at idle and 39 at WOT - any suggestions about the range as well as brand name, type and prices
 - Fuel injectors (anybody knows how much do the stock ones flow for a '95 2.5L?) - It would help a lot if you can help with car/engine/flow replacement suggestions so I can go with stock replacements and not use a high-performance part as it can run pretty expensive. Also i can test with used parts before i decide to buy a brand new item.
 - Fuel pump - that is with all the mods above, would the stock pump have enough flow?
 - Spark plugs - same here, brand and type

Thanks in advance

[sharpxmen]

i guess superchargers are not the hot topic these days  :cry:

[Jeffy]

There's still interest but not many have the time nor experiance to play around with them.  The kits from Avenger are $$$$.  Although I did find another company in CO that installed centrifugals on cars and trucks...

Go ahead and post some pictures.  I'd like to see them.

[sharpxmen]

It is ugly still as i did not have a chance to paint the parts yet

Supercharger with the outlet and bypass valve installed (front and back view).



TB adapter with fittings for bypass valve vacuum actuator, bypass valve return and the valve cover hose fitting that usually goes to the manifold below TB when normally aspirated (barely visible on the left right below where you can see the wrench on the table)


Same thing, view from inside - this one is also used as a mounting bracket for the back of the S/C


This is the adapter plate/mounting bracket to which the front of the S/C bolts on - it is installed where the stock A/C goes


And the whole thing installed in place








And this is my rig (before the 1'' body lift)

[Jeffy]

Very slick.  I wish I had the time and tools to fabricate that sort of stuff.

I believe the stock injectors are around 18psi.  4.0L's are supposed to be 22psi I think.  5.0L Mustang injectors are 24 or 26 or something like that.

I believe Turbo City or Hesco sells a adjustable fuel regulator that will fit on the rail like the OEM.  I would think that the stock fuel pump is fine since it's the same used with the 4.0L.

I use a PD Firewire ignition and gap my plugs at .065" (.030" over stock)

The only thing I'm kinda of wondering is your filter location.  It's semi-stock and with the open element, it's still probably drawing in a lot of warm air.   I used to have a K&N and shoved it between the PS res. and fan shroud and it was a bit better.  Did you consider keeping it on the passenger side and having it point straight down in front of the alternator?

[sharpxmen]

Actually i work 5 days a week so don't really have time either (that's why is still in the project state). Some parts i ordered in some metal shops (like the mounting/adapter bracket w/ the 90 deg bend) and most of them i was helped (a lot) by one of my friends that owns a machine shop (and those are friends you definitely want to keep especially if you own a Jeep  :) ) - he works Saturdays so that worked out just perfect - i did the mock up, measure, cut, clean welds - he did the drilling and welding (Thanks Dan!!!). Not to mention all the materials. All the pipes are standard exaust 2.5'' OD and got some radiator hoses that are same diameter but ID.

You are right about the filter, and i was planning to box it in an aluminum cylinder and use a snorkle upstream, however they run pretty high in price so i'm just timing out the expenses for now. I looked for one on ebay but couldn't find any secondhands and new ones are same price as in a store (if you have any tips on that would be great - no DYIs as the ones i've seen are very functional but pretty bad as far as looks). I dont want to go low with the filter as it would hurt the motor - these high flow filters are not too good as far as keeping out fine dust. The difference is pretty significant when the engine is cold so it is definitely not a good location right now.

I will probably have another crack at it after i get a 2-bar MAP, bigger injectors and adjustable fuel press regulator - i will post some updated pics when i get the final setup - i want to change the pipes to aluminum ones as these are super heavy but for testing they work just fine. Thanks for tips and feedback Jeffy.

[mike]

I know this topic is quite old but if you are still having problems with fuel tunning i might be able to help.
I am formerly one of those tuner guys in their little honda civics pissin people off with the "great lawnmower sounding engine".
I have an 89 civic that I had boosted the livin crap out of (turbo not belt driven blower).  It dynoed at 314 @ wheels at 7400 rpm. only little 1.6l
anyway i had tons of problems with fuel tried to add fmu, but still was runnin lean @ approx 5 lbs. :cry:
then tried removing return line, cheapest way.  but dumped way too much fuel in @ idle and still was runnin lean @ 6 lbs
finally I changed to all new fuel management and 440cc injectors out of turbo supra (by the way they look like they would fit my YJ, and were only $10 a piece cdn) took those too diesel performne shop they did magical stuff and became 520 cc injectors ($8 per injector)
you should not need a 2 bar map sensor 29.4psi if you only want to run 5-8 psi. if you do you need your comp. re tuned to accept the different signal.  and as for where you get one, didnt dodge make turboed cars in the 80s I know mitsu. made alot of their engins but they must of had one with a 2 bar to take the boost.  anyway just some things i did for 17 lbs.

[chardrc]

as far as not being interested.. i used to be but i only have the tbi2.5 which makes it harder and if i  was going to pout that kinda time and money into bmy jeep i miswell put in a v6..

[sharpxmen]

thanks for replies guys -
I have some updates since last time i posted about this:
I installed an adjustable Fuel pressure regulator - the stock one gives 31/39psi for idle/WOT - i set the new one at around 41/49/55 for idle/0psi/6psi the latter being my new WOT with the supercharger on. I currently have an air/fuel gauge on the stock O2 sensor - i dunno how accurate would be outside of the stoich area and i heard that the best way to tune is with a wide range one - i should definitely do that for more accurate readings. I can say that with the new pressure settings and the pedal to the floor up to about 3500 rpm the air/fuel seemed to be relatively the same as with no s/c and the old pressure regulator. over that rpm i was sometimes getting very lean ratio so i tried to keep it undet 4000rpm - the increase in torque and power for that range was obvious, however it did not seem significant once i was getting up to speed and be in the 5th gear even though the air/fuel was somewhere the same as for WOT w/o the s/c. Not sure why, might be some screwy readings on my gauge. looks like i definitely need bigger injectors, probably something like 32 to 36 lbs and a 2 bar map sensor.
i bought a 2 bar map sensor, i start to work on a adjustable map voltage regulator with a builtin voltmeter display so i can see what;s in/out - the 2 bar map sensor puts out 5v at 15psi, so if i run 6psi of boost i should get 5v at that pressure using the adjustable MAP voltage input - that would give based on my common sense the WOT signal to the FMU.
If anybody did some of this before i would appreciate (again) some pointers.
As a conclusion, up to 3500rpm the Jeep was flying compared to before with a constant pull starting from about 1000 rpm. I am pretty eager to get this other stuff on it but i've been quite busy lately going camping and offroading (and i am not really comfortable having the s/c on to risk some blow-up in the middle of nowhere).

[mike]

Are you running into any boost creep?
and yeah you should most deffinetly get a wideband.  a four wire O2 is crap, so inaccurate.  Trust me I just Melted my pistons on my civic because I ran too lean (my A/F guage said I was running just into the rich side).  You are in vancover, you should hit up a couple of the import shows.  My friend called me the other night and told me he had picked up the whole kit for $128 cdn.  No word of a lie.
Very cheap insurance
anyways this is only my $0.02 worth
Wheel Well
Mike

[mike]

Ps I just looked at yourPix.
Very sexy ride.  If I ever make it out to Vancover you gotta show me this beast.  Just No Talking about hockey I am soooo depressed.

[sharpxmen]

you got it Mike - make sure you don't come between Oct-May or you might commit suicide - it rains 24x7. Yeah, no hockey (unless Canucks sign Ovechkin - not sure about the spelling - then i might have something to brag about).
RE: O2 sensor - i saw one online (can't remember the site) which was wideband and had an output so you can actually trick the computer and eliminate the stock one. something around $350 i think - i'll post a link if i find it again.

[wrangler387]

I am using the PLX M300 wideband on my jeep currently, which has a narrowband output that is beign sent to the stock jeep ecu, and then a wideband output which is being sent to megasquirt (although it is not up and running yet), and then it has a digital readout. I bought it awhile back for used for $200 off of honda-tech. I suggest you start looking into running megasquirt and upgrading to some dsm 450cc injectors (this is what i'm going to run). What FPR did you get and how much did it end up costing you? I'm going to be starting back up with trying to get megasquirt up and running since I have a job again.

[sharpxmen]

I am using the PLX M300 wideband on my jeep currently, which has a narrowband output that is beign sent to the stock jeep ecu, and then a wideband output which is being sent to megasquirt (although it is not up and running yet), and then it has a digital readout. I bought it awhile back for used for $200 off of honda-tech. I suggest you start looking into running megasquirt and upgrading to some dsm 450cc injectors (this is what i'm going to run). What FPR did you get and how much did it end up costing you? I'm going to be starting back up with trying to get megasquirt up and running since I have a job again.

I just looked over this old post and realized i never answered your question: it's a Mallory 30-100psi adjustable FPR, cost me about $100 but with the fittings and accessories got me to $150.

Did you ever end up having the megasquirt up and running?