Topic: Dana 44 drive shaft length

[Shrek]

I picked up a set of Dana 44s for my 97 TJ. Do you need to change the drveshaft length? It looks like the 44 pinion and yoke lenth is longer that the 30 / 35 but maybe not. Anybody made this swap? 44s are out of a Rubicon.

[Jeffy]

The driveshaft should work alright, especially if you're already lifted.  The pinion is around 1-2" higher and 1-2" longer.

[Shrek]

Thanks, it's got a 4" lift now. I just need the 1310 X 1330 ujoints to adapt and I'm good. I hope.

[Shrek]

Front drive shaft must be shortened by almost 3". The drive shaft hits the yoke on the front dif without the slip yoke installed. Just the bare splined shaft touches the yoke nut when the suspension is extended all the way down.The Tom Woods I have in the back had enough travel to bolt right in. Note, you must use 1310 X 1330 ujoints.

[Jeffy]

OH, you're doing BOTH axles.  My Bad. :oops:   Yeah the front will likely need to be shortened.  You should be able to take it to a local shop has have it done for pretty cheap.

[Shrek]

I'm trying to determine exactly how much to remove. I can't find the exact dimensions of both diffs. Centerline to ujoint measures about 13-3/8" on the 44. My buddy measured 10.5" on his D30. The diff travels in such an arch I don't want to remove too much and not have good engagement when the suspension is compressed on the drivers side. I hate to guess.

[Jeffy]

I'm trying to determine exactly how much to remove. I can't find the exact dimensions of both diffs. Centerline to ujoint measures about 13-3/8" on the 44. My buddy measured 10.5" on his D30. The diff travels in such an arch I don't want to remove too much and not have good engagement when the suspension is compressed on the drivers side. I hate to guess.

Yeah, it will travel in a slightly different arch because of the location of the pinion in relation to the housing.   This is because the axle tubes are a bit larger and since the sptings sit on top of the axle, you'll get a little bump in lift.  The rear won't change since it uses D35c axle tubes.

You and your friend would have to have the same amount of lift for it to be a good comparison also.

Another thing to keep in mind that it's probably better to be a little short and have to extend the slip then have it too long and risk punching a hole in your transfer case when the shaft bottoms out before the suspension.  Because of the splines you should have 1-2" of leaway.

[BlackYJ]

If you are shortening your driveshaft you might as well just change the yokes to 1330s.  With the combo joints you can run into vibration issues.

[callenst]

Where did you get the axles?   Ive been searching for months for a good deal.   Seems impossible.   How much?   Congrats on the upgrade.  

TC

[YJmechanic]

if the rear will work then i'd put it together first and then measure with the axle in.

[Shrek]

I bought the diffs on ebay. There is a Jeep bone yard that sells Rubicn axles for $3800 for the pair, complete. It's a lot of money but they bolt in and go. I just can't seem to figure out the wiring for the Rubicon pumps. They are tied into the computer on the Rubi. I just want to wire in a switch for on and off. I don't need the confirmation lights.

[Shrek]

BTW, I shortened the front shaft 2-7/8" and it works perfectly. Those 4:88 gears made a world of difference with my 33" tires. I can use 5th gear again and it takes off from a stop effortlessly. It also slowed my crawl speed down to the point that I have scrapped the Atlas TC notion. That saved some serious cake.