Author Topic: Replacing idler pulley with newer late model  (Read 686 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline jagular7

  • Member
  • Posts: 987
Replacing idler pulley with newer late model
« on: January 27, 2007, 06:27:35 PM »
Last week, while chipping away at my driveway ice, I had started the TJ and let it idle to warm up. About 20-30 minutes later, I see coolant coming out the front. I thought the radiator finally called it quits. When I turned off the engine, I hear it boiling. Damn, it over-heated. So I pop the hood up and see that the belt was thrown. How long? The lower alternator bracket broke.

Went looking for another. Stealerships wanted $160 for another, but had to order it. Yards don't sell brackets without an engine. So I went to a local yard and got another for $20 on an sitting in the mud engine.
Had the original welded up but welder didn't know exactly what material it was (magnesium, cast aluminum), so I wasn't charged. This was before I went to my local truck yard.


Installed a new alternator, upgraded to 120A, and it was a complete bolt in, after swapping pulleys. 120A- $120, stock replacement 90A- $108. I've been told there is another upgrade alternator, but that would be to a GC v8 model at 130A. I didn't go that way.
Put everything together then it started to snow. Checked oil for coolant, checked coolant for oil. Clear. So she starts right up. So I guess I've lucked out with the 17* ambient temp for that day. I didn't have a clue how long it ran without a belt.

Putting on the new belt in the snow and the tools got real cold to hold, it took some time to figure out the adjustable pulley. Is there a 2.5l version where you can replace this adjustable pulley with a spring-loaded tensioner so all that is needed is a breaker bar?
Jagular7
97 SE - Rubbered and locked for fun
94 SE - stock, collecting parts for 37s

Offline Jeffy

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 14934
Replacing idler pulley with newer late model
« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2007, 09:34:43 PM »
The piece of metal should be cast aluminum.

As for changing the tensioner, TJ's should have a second idler pulley that is the spring loaded tensioner.  Does your '97 have a YJ setup with the tensioner as the P/S pump?
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

cromwell

  • Guest
Replacing idler pulley with newer late model
« Reply #2 on: January 28, 2007, 03:24:10 AM »
As Jeffy stated.  THe belt tensioner is on the power steering pump bracket.
Loosen the guide wheel below the power steering pump and then the loosen the bolt on the bracket.  I usually have to unplug the sensor wire to give me a little more room to access the bolt.

HTH

Tony

Offline jagular7

  • Member
  • Posts: 987
Replacing idler pulley with newer late model
« Reply #3 on: January 28, 2007, 04:05:47 PM »
Here are some close ups of the adjuster pulley. You have to break the pully bolt's tension, then screw down the adjuster bolt (the rusty one in the pic) on the bracket to pull the pulley away to gain space to put the belt on.



The adjuster pulley is under the ps pump.
Jagular7
97 SE - Rubbered and locked for fun
94 SE - stock, collecting parts for 37s

cromwell

  • Guest
Replacing idler pulley with newer late model
« Reply #4 on: January 28, 2007, 05:16:18 PM »
In picture loosen bolt 1 then loosen bolt two and that will give you the slack needed to remove the belt.  On my Jeep even when I loosen it to the fullest it is still a tight fit. Hope this helps.

Tony


Offline jagular7

  • Member
  • Posts: 987
Replacing idler pulley with newer late model
« Reply #5 on: January 28, 2007, 07:03:43 PM »
Thanks Tony, that is exactly the bolts.
Jagular7
97 SE - Rubbered and locked for fun
94 SE - stock, collecting parts for 37s