Topic: 35s and driving

[officer mike]

Hey I have read alot about this, but I would like to hear from someone who has experianced this. I am about to go to 35s and have purchased 4.88s. However after stumbling on a magazine article stating that 4.88s weren't enough for the 4 banger jeep and 35s... that got me concerned. I dont mind adding power to the engine. I just was womdering if it was going to be really bad. any feed back I would appreciate. Thanks guys

[Jesse-James]

I'm sue Jeffy will chime in here, I believe that's what he's running. I think it's general opinion that it's doable but not preferred (unless it's an auto).

[jcsanders79]

I have 4.88's with 33's and I plan on upgrading to 35's in a few months.  I have an auto and have no problem spinning my tires now, infact I can smoke them on a tough rock obsticle fairly easy.  I do have several engine mods though.

[Jeffy]

Actually, I run 4.56's with my 35's.  If I was going to go proper then I'd defiantly want 5.13's or even better 5.38's.  This means two new axles.  Actually to run 35's you'll want to at least upgrade your rear axle from the D35c to something else.  Adding enough torque to the engine will end up costing more then using the correct gearing in the first place.  So my recommendation is to swap both axles out and regear to the proper ratio, 5.13 or 5.38's.

[officer mike]

Thanks guys for the replies. I am def going to an 8.8. If I purchase the clayton long arms then I will do the 8.8 now so I can buy the 8.8 truss the first time. If I buy other long arms I might leave the d35 in for a while and baby it. I want to tackel this decision in the next day or 2. I found an 8.8 from an explorer with disc brakes for 300. thats a good price right? thanks for the help

[oldjeep]

I've got 35's with 4.10's and an automatic.  Seems to work on the road just fine, just not using 4th gear in the auto much

[Rokcrwln]

I ran 35s in a D35 with an ARB and a C-clip eliminator kit and 4.56 gears. It was pretty gutless and I avoided the highway unless I knew there was very little traffic. Then my right shaft broke and came out of the tube on the interstate.  Now I run a Currie 9" with 5.29s and cruise on the highway without a worry. I actually get to pass people going up hill!

[Jeffy]

I ran 35s in a D35 with an ARB and a C-clip eliminator kit and 4.56 gears. It was pretty gutless and I avoided the highway unless I knew there was very little traffic. Then my right shaft broke and came out of the tube on the interstate.  Now I run a Currie 9" with 5.29s and cruise on the highway without a worry. I actually get to pass people going up hill!

Proper gearing does wonder, huh?

[jagular7]

Thanks guys for the replies. I am def going to an 8.8. If I purchase the clayton long arms then I will do the 8.8 now so I can buy the 8.8 truss the first time. If I buy other long arms I might leave the d35 in for a while and baby it. I want to tackel this decision in the next day or 2. I found an 8.8 from an explorer with disc brakes for 300. thats a good price right? thanks for the help

Pretty decent price but how complete is it? You could get some return also if the 8.8 R&P is something a Mustang owner could use. In comparison, I've got a 99 8.8 for $200 with a 3.47?(IIRC) r&p. I don't have parking brake cables and it needed pads.

For my gearing I went with 4.88's for the TJ D30/8.8 combination running on 34" LTBs. RPM is slightly higher than stock, but at the highway speed (70mph), I'm pushing greater than 3200rpms.  Peak torque is near there and hp peak is higher (4800rpm?). I've got the auto with my 2.5l in the 97 TJ. I'm not the original owner and I believe this Jeep was not taken care of prior to me owning. I believe it needs a trans rebuild to get the quick shifts back and a better torque converter to work with the gear ratios.

[officer mike]

"I've got a 99 8.8 for $200 with a 3.47?(IIRC) r&p. I don't have parking brake cables and it needed pads."

hey jagular where are you located? and what does (IIRC) mean? thanks alot Mike

[Jesse-James]

If
I
Remember
Correctly

[jagular7]

"I've got a 99 8.8 for $200 with a 3.47?(IIRC) r&p. I don't have parking brake cables and it needed pads."

hey jagular where are you located? and what does (IIRC) mean? thanks alot Mike

IIRC:
If
I
Recall
Correctly

I'm located just outside of Kansas City.

[Bounty Hunter]

Are you dead set on an 8.8?  You can get a D44 from the rear of an Isuzu rodeo, it'll give you disc brakes and the ability to gear down to 5.13 or 5.38.  A Waggy front D44 would then give you a matching 6-lug wheel pattern all the way around.  6-lug rims are one of the most common patterns out there, many chevy and foriegn rims out there.  The Front D44 will give you the huge advantage of having serviceable bearings and locking hubs.

I'm running 5.38 gears, 35" radials for the road and 36" bias TSL's for the trail.  I can accelerate up steep grades in 4th, and accelerate up slight grades in 5th, not bad for a 4banger on 35" tires.  Not so afraid to pass anymore.

[officer mike]

I snagged an 8.8 today. It has the discs. I see what you are saying about the rodeo but that bolt pattern is a no go for me. I ordered those dick cepek new black rims like 2 months ago and I was the first name on the list. They were shipped to me yesterday. 5 on 4.5. Thanks tho. I appreciate the feedback guys. Mike

[might4banger]

I have 4.88's and 35's with the 5 speed... feels same as when I ran 30's and 4.10's.

It also depends on tire and wheel weight.

FWIW - I am running American Racing Baja wheels and Dunlop Mud Rovers.

Find a light tire and wheel combo and 4.88's should work for ya...

Check that java gear applet Jeffy posted up.