Topic: Banks Monster Cat Back on an '01 TJ

[tlucier]

I just finished installing the Banks Monster cat back exhaust system on my '01 TJ.  My Jeep has the 4 clyinder engine.  Everything went together fairly well but the exhaust pipe makes contact with the right rear shock.  The pipe is right against the shock and rattles at idle.  Anyone else ever run into this problem?  If so, what'd you do to solve it?

Thanks for your help!

[lanulos89]

a picture would be very helpful

[tlucier]

Sorry about that.  I didn't have time to post pictures yesterday.  Here are a few shots that show the contact between the pipe and the shock.


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[Bounty Hunter]

Judging by how the rubber exhaust hanger is being pulled towards the axle, it looks as if the exhaust clamps need loosened and everything pulled back slightly.

Try to gain about 1/4" in front of the muffler and 1/4" behind and you should be fine, making sure you still have enough tube inserted to clamp tightly without distortion.

[jeepheap]

bfh the hanger. at least thats what i'd do.

[Jeffy]

I'd loosen the exhaust clams, then adjust the pipe so it doesn't rub.

[Liljeepz]

I removed my tail pipe and put on a end piece pointed down right after the muffler, so it blows to the ground just before my axle.

Well I didn't remove it, the ground removed it when I got stuck on a hill going backwards.

[tlucier]

Thanks for the feedback guys.  Jeffy and Bounty Hunter, now that you mention it, when I installed the exhaust system I pushed the pipe as far on to the backside of the muffler as possible.  I should be able to gain something there by backing off the clamp.  I don't think I can gain much on the front side of the muffler as it bolts up right to the catalytic convertor.  There are 2 studs on the muffler flange that fit through a flange on the cat.  When you tighten the two nuts, it sucks the muffler up tight against the cat.

Jeepheap - I tried the bfh route but the hanger starts to bend up towards the bottom of the frame rail which rotates the exhaust pipe into shock even more.  If I can't get any clearance by moving the exhaust pipe back off the muffler, I may have to try some creative work with the bfh and some 2x4's to get the hanger to bend the right way.

Nuxt option is to build a new hanger to mount to the frame.  I have a friend who owns a machine shop, so he can fab something up for me as long as I give him a sketch.  I just need to pay for materials which shouldn't be too much.

Last option is to put the end piece directly off the muffler like Liljeepz.  Hey Liljeepz, do you have any problems with exhaust fumes, especially at idle at a stoplight or on the trail?

[Jeffy]

Thanks for the feedback guys.  Jeffy and Bounty Hunter, now that you mention it, when I installed the exhaust system I pushed the pipe as far on to the backside of the muffler as possible.  I should be able to gain something there by backing off the clamp.  I don't think I can gain much on the front side of the muffler as it bolts up right to the catalytic convertor.  There are 2 studs on the muffler flange that fit through a flange on the cat.  When you tighten the two nuts, it sucks the muffler up tight against the cat.

Also try rotating the pipe a bit.  I can't see how it's attached to the muffler but rotating it a bit should help to get it away from the shock.  If you're worried about the length and having the tailpipe exposed out the back, you could cut the pipe that the tip attaches to.  Then have the tip far enough back that it isn't sticking past the gas tank skidplate.

Oh and when you use those clamps, try to have the bolt on top of the pipe.  This leaves less to get hung up on.
Bolt-on exhausts always take a adjustment or two after they are installed to get them just right.

[tlucier]

The exhaust pipe is connected to the muffler with a simple clamp.  After loosening the clamp, I should be able to rotate it a bit to get some more clearance. 

The only thing I need to watch for is the hanger brackets.  If I rotate the pipe too much, the hanger pins won't line up with the hangers.  There are two hangers; 1 is at the rear of the exhaust pipe and can be seen in the earlier pictures.  The other hanger is closer to the muffler side of the pipe.

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[Jeffy]

You don't need to rotate it a lot. (Might not have to rotate it any once you pull it back a few inches.)  You're probably only really looking for 1/2" -1" of space between the shock and the pipe.

[Liljeepz]

Last option is to put the end piece directly off the muffler like Liljeepz.  Hey Liljeepz, do you have any problems with exhaust fumes, especially at idle at a stoplight or on the trail?

Nope, none. Its far enough back that it doesnt come in even when the doors are off, My kid seems to be normal too so the back seat doesnt get any eather! 
 Ill have to get off my lazy but and take a pic or two.

[Bounty Hunter]

I too use a turn-down right behind the muffler, with no problems.  Got tired of beating up tailpipes so I did away with it.

[tlucier]

Banks contacted me today and they said they believe the issue is my lift kit. They said their installation manager reviewed the pictures I sent them and they feel the lift lit put the shock in a different position than the stock location.  The lift is a 6" Rough Country X Series. Banks said the lift will alter the location of the upper shock mount and cause the interference.  I don't get it.  Since their product was designed for a stock Jeep it is now on me to get it to work.  Banks said that their exhaust pipe is larger in diameter than stock, so their opinion is the combination of the lift and the larger diameter exhaust pipe is the problem.  They said I should contact a local muffler shop for help.  You'd think for the money I spent, I could expect a little better customer service.

 

[Bounty Hunter]

They are correct, the shock will become more vertical as the jeep is lifted, moving the shock canister closer to the exhaust.

You could always have the upper shock mount moved slightly forward.

Either way it's on your dime.