Topic: Trail Master 3" lift

[Shawn_c]

Yeah, I've heard a ton of good things about BDS as well. It's the route I'm planning on going, since all i can do is research until my funds grow a bit more for a lift. (Trying to keep myself busy with other small projects on the Jeep while the bigger stuff waits). Also, the local 4x4 shop really suggests them, and you cannot beat their guarantee.

I'm going to go with the BDS 3.5" lift I'm pretty sure. It's the largest lift you can get and not do a SYE kit at the same time (though that's down the road when my Jeep is not my DD and I can have it out of commission for a bit). I'm planning on running 33's for this stage (until I can afford another vehicle for my DD.)

OME also has great reviews, but it's $$ and I can't see any reason myself /not/ to go BDS.

An SYE really is needed with a 3.5" lift regardless of what someones advertising might say.  Installing an SYE is pretty quick and easy.

With the transfercase drop he should be ok.  I know when I added my shackles though the transfercase drop wasn't enough and I would go through the bottom u-joint on the rear drive shaft every couple of months.  Funny though on my TJ I have over 3" of lift and no transfercase drop....

[oldjeep]

Better off saving up for the SYE and having a cherokee CV shaft cut down.  Tcase drop is a band-aid.  Why bother lifting the jeep 3.5" only to drop the belly down an inch?  Besides, for a daily driver eating a driveshaft u-joint every few months isn't really a good thing unless it happens when you are pulling into the driveway.

[Shawn_c]

Better off saving up for the SYE and having a cherokee CV shaft cut down.  Tcase drop is a band-aid.  Why bother lifting the jeep 3.5" only to drop the belly down an inch?  Besides, for a daily driver eating a driveshaft u-joint every few months isn't really a good thing unless it happens when you are pulling into the driveway.

Well it is a SWB rig right, so belly clearence isn't as much of an issue like it is on a truck or longer suv.  Plus your still lifting the frame, gas tank, and everything else except the axles 3.5"....I just don't see the 1" drop as big -o-deal as some people do.  But your right going through the u-joints was not a fun deal, but now they have Motor Mount lifts which should also help to alleviate vibe issues.  I tend not to worry about stuff so much.  Do the lift and if you get vibes with the x-fer drop, then worry about getting the SYE, XJ drive shaft, and a shim kit to get your driveline angles correct. 

[neale_rs]

Thanks for all the ideas.  I'm going to see about buying the BDS springs without the rest of the kit and see how it prices out.

[black99tj]

I've got the 4.5'' Superflex and am really pleased with the way it handles. I think if you go with good shocks, your onroad handling will not suffer. You'll be mad you didn't go larger later if you decide on a 3.5 or 3''.

[neale_rs]

Thanks. Back to square one, good thing I´m doing this next summer so it gives me some time to think and decide what to do!

[Shawn_c]

In all honesty if I were building another YJ I'd spend $500 on a set of waggy dana 44's, and do a spring over conversion and 35's.  With the waggy front you get the option of adding high steer, better gearing choices, bigger brakes, bigger ball joints, better hubs, bigger ring and pinion.  YJ's have a huge advantage over TJ's when it comes to axle swaps.  Anyone that can weld should be able to do a spring over, and spring pads are cheap.

[oldjeep]

In all honesty if I were building another YJ I'd spend $500 on a set of waggy dana 44's, and do a spring over conversion and 35's.  With the waggy front you get the option of adding high steer, better gearing choices, bigger brakes, bigger ball joints, better hubs, bigger ring and pinion.  YJ's have a huge advantage over TJ's when it comes to axle swaps.  Anyone that can weld should be able to do a spring over, and spring pads are cheap.

Have you actually ever done a spring over?  It isn't as easy as just putting some perches on an axle.

[Shawn_c]

In all honesty if I were building another YJ I'd spend $500 on a set of waggy dana 44's, and do a spring over conversion and 35's.  With the waggy front you get the option of adding high steer, better gearing choices, bigger brakes, bigger ball joints, better hubs, bigger ring and pinion.  YJ's have a huge advantage over TJ's when it comes to axle swaps.  Anyone that can weld should be able to do a spring over, and spring pads are cheap.

Have you actually ever done a spring over?  It isn't as easy as just putting some perches on an axle.

I have done about 5.  And it is pretty easy :twofingers:buy or build an anti wrap bar for the rear and for the front you can do a z-bar style of steering at the low end of tech or you could do a full on high steer or cross over style if you went with a waggy or some other 44. 

[neale_rs]

What exactly is the "cross over steering"? I keep hearing about this but don't know what it is.

[Jeffy]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Steering/Steering_Research/steeringresearch.htm

[neale_rs]

Thanks, great page.  It looks like the old CJ setup.

[Jeffy]

Thanks, great page.  It looks like the old CJ setup.

CJ will have an Inverted T.

[neale_rs]

Here is a picture of the CJ steering:

http://www.quadratec.com/advisor/jeep_oem_replacement_parts/steering/CJ_steering.php

The drag link goes to a hole in the steering knuckle arm and there is no hole in the tie rod for the drag link tie rod end. I think the YJ was the first jeep to use the inverted T.

[Jeffy]

Here is a picture of the CJ steering:

http://www.quadratec.com/advisor/jeep_oem_replacement_parts/steering/CJ_steering.php

The drag link goes to a hole in the steering knuckle arm and there is no hole in the tie rod for the drag link tie rod end. I think the YJ was the first jeep to use the inverted T.

Ah, OK you're right!  I forgot it has the D44 knuckles.