Topic: TJ Dana 44 Front Axle

[jcsanders79]

I am in the process of collecting parts to go with 5.38 gears so that I can run 35's.  I currently have a rear D44 and want to put one in the front.  I will be installing OX lockers and am thinking that I can piece an axle together cheaper than the ready to go bolt in axles.  Is there a front D44 that would be easier to start with?  I plan on using my current knuckles and brakes, Do I also use the D30 shafts?  Any other input would be great!  Thanks, Chris.

[jagular7]

You may want to hold off a little bit on the selection of a front compatible axle. Reid Racing is coming out with a knuckle that will convert the uni-bearing to a full floater hub with a manual lockout. The only thing is that it will use a GM straight axle spindle out. That gives you a 6 lug wheel requirement. However, you could throw on a Ford hub (rotor, caliper) on GM spindle to get a 5lug (5on5.5) wheel pattern. Then match the rear lug by using different shafts. The steering tie rod will be placed in the stock configuration location so that you wouldn't have to mess with the track bar axle location. However, with the GM designed knuckle it will have flat top capability so high-steer could work. Then you would have to relocate the track bar to match the drag link angle to minimize bump steer. Pricing will be under $300 on the high side to over $230 on the low side. They stated it will work with the CJ spindle/hub/rotor/caliper also, but then you are getting the smaller u-joint (260) with that setup. Keep it GM and you get the 297/760 larger joint. This size ujoint is the same as the TJ D30/Rubicon D44. The knuckle axle hole will be larger so when you do break a joint and the yoke ears separate, you could still pull it through the knuckle center hole.

Their market research shows TJ owners wanting manual lockouts for the 35-38" tires and stock upgraded axles. Many TJ owners swap in alloy shafts so opting the rear alloys to match the front lug pattern wouldn't cost any more, though getting working brakes is another cost. Adding a conversion spacer is another option to get the rear axle lug pattern to match. These are to work with the TJ stock D30/Rubicon D44 inner Cs on the axles.

Depending on what kind of wheeling you do, how aggressive your right foot is, and how much weight your Jeep will be, the D30/Rubi D44 can handle some size itself. The tubes will probably require some kind of truss to minimize the deflection (known problem with the coiled D30), the troublesome uni-bearing will be eliminated.

[jcsanders79]

Thats way more than I want out of the axle.  The only reason I want a D44 up front is so I can go 5.38 with the gears.  I want to use my stock knuckles brakes and all that. 

I found a bare housing for $100+shipping ($180 total) that came out of a 3/4 ton Chevy.  I know I have to cut it down and put TJ brakets on it (I was told my D30 brackets could be cut off and reused) but will this axle allow me to put my knuckles back on?  Besides gears, locker, axle shafts and a bearing kit is there anything else I need?

[neale_rs]

If you are going to narrow the axle there should be no reason you couldn´t put the D30 ends on it, they are just welded on.  You may need to use bigger outer shafts that take 297/760 u-joints.

[garydubf]

You know that that Chevy axle is not only going to need cut!  It'll need the tubes swapped side to side.  So that you ahve the correct drop.  Might want to consider a early waggy front 44.  Won't need to be narrowed.

You can use the inner axles and the dana 30 stubs.  Also if you happen to break an axle, J.Y. axles are cheap compared to waiting for a custom to be sent.  Last time I checked UPS doesn't deliver on the trail! ;

TJ brackets can be cut off and reused. If you are carefull.  R.E. sells the bracket kit for abot $400 for the front!

[neale_rs]

How can he use the D30 inner axles?  Aren't they 27 spline as opposed to 30 spline on the D44 differential?

[garydubf]

Dana 44 inners and 30 outers!  I'm pretty sure it'll work!

[neale_rs]

Ok, I see what you mean, I agree it would work.

[jcsanders79]

You know that that Chevy axle is not only going to need cut!  It'll need the tubes swapped side to side.  So that you ahve the correct drop.  Might want to consider a early waggy front 44.  Won't need to be narrowed.

You can use the inner axles and the dana 30 stubs.  Also if you happen to break an axle, J.Y. axles are cheap compared to waiting for a custom to be sent.  Last time I checked UPS doesn't deliver on the trail! ;

TJ brackets can be cut off and reused. If you are carefull.  R.E. sells the bracket kit for abot $400 for the front!

So the early Waganers have the same width?  I'm glad you said something about the pumpkin being on different sides I totally forgot about that.

[jcsanders79]

I found a complete driver side diff front D44 out of a 79 ford pretty cheap.  I am having trouble finding info on this axle.  Does anyone know if this will be compatible with my D30 knuckles, ball joints, spindles and brakes(this is what the TJ replacement axles reuse)?  I know I will have to get it cut down anything else I am not thinking about?

[oldjeep]

I found a complete driver side diff front D44 out of a 79 ford pretty cheap.  I am having trouble finding info on this axle.  Does anyone know if this will be compatible with my D30 knuckles, ball joints, spindles and brakes(this is what the TJ replacement axles reuse)?  I know I will have to get it cut down anything else I am not thinking about?

Uh - no.  You might be able to take the outter C's off your D30 and mill them out so they will fit on the D44 tubes.  But D44 C's will not work with XJ/YJ Dana 30 knuckles.

[jcsanders79]

Uh - no.  You might be able to take the outter C's off your D30 and mill them out so they will fit on the D44 tubes.  But D44 C's will not work with XJ/YJ Dana 30 knuckles.

Its a TJ though, I am not convinced that this is a good axle to start with yet, still looking.  Any suggestions on a good vehicle model to track down?

[oldjeep]

Its a TJ though, I am not convinced that this is a good axle to start with yet, still looking.  Any suggestions on a good vehicle model to track down?

XJ/YJ/TJ then :)  There are not any easy choices for a 5 on 4.5 front axle that will take 5.38 gears.  Not sure why you think you need 5.38's with 35" tires, but that's another discussion.

Dodge 1/2 ton unit bearing D44's are 5 on 4.5 but would have to be narrowed and the axle has some serious issues, one of the biggest is the lack of available replacement parts.

[jcsanders79]

XJ/YJ/TJ then :)  There are not any easy choices for a 5 on 4.5 front axle that will take 5.38 gears.  Not sure why you think you need 5.38's with 35" tires, but that's another discussion.

Dodge 1/2 ton unit bearing D44's are 5 on 4.5 but would have to be narrowed and the axle has some serious issues, one of the biggest is the lack of available replacement parts.

Let me retry this question.  I want to end up with something like this  http://www.drivetrainwarehouse.com/PDT260549.aspx  This set up reuses my stock D30 knuckles, ball joints, spindles and brakes.  Which means that I don't have to worry about lug patterns.  I am running 33's with 4.88's right now and 5.38 would make a very BIG difference, don't all D44 accept 5.38 gears?

[oldjeep]

Let me retry this question.  I want to end up with something like this  http://www.drivetrainwarehouse.com/PDT260549.aspx  This set up reuses my stock D30 knuckles, ball joints, spindles and brakes.  Which means that I don't have to worry about lug patterns.  I am running 33's with 4.88's right now and 5.38 would make a very BIG difference, don't all D44 accept 5.38 gears?

Rubicon D44's don't

In order to build what is in that link, you would need to get a Dana 44 front end - preferably a high pinion from a Ford.  Then you need to remove the C's from the ends of the tubes.  Then you would need to remove the C's from your Dana 30 and have them milled out so that they would actuallyu fit on a D44 tube.  Then you would need to cut the D44 to the correct width, install the C's and weld them on.  Once you do all that you need to weld on TJ coil and control arm brackets.

You would then get some D44 inner axles cut down to the size you need and attach them to the stubs from your D30 (assuming you have the larger ujoints)  The reattach all the outter D30 stuff and you're done.

easy