Topic: Bent Draglink

[Jesse-James]

So I'm starting my SOA next week and would like opinions on steering. The plan is to use a bent and gusseted (newly fabbed, not OEM) Draglink until budget allows for high steer later on. Any tips or opinions on this. Don't care to hear "don't do it" without explination or experience, but would like some opinions from those that have "been there, done that" or information on other options.

Thanks. 

[Mozman68]

Don't do it.....

Oh wait....I have no idea about YJ's...or TJ's for that matter....

[oldjeep]

I'd make sure it's 1/4" wall.  Gusseted is a good idea too.   Are you not able to use a dropped pitman to get the same effect, or are you expecting it to rub on a full right turn?

[jfrabat]

I dont have ANY experience with draglinks, but if you are looking for strength, logic would dictate that a bent rod will be less rigid and more likely to absorbe some of the force than a straght rod...  So it could get you in trouble.  But as I said, I have no experience, so I could be totally off the mark!

[oldjeep]

BTW - when you get to the point of needing your Knuckles machined for the hi-steer arms, a friend of mine does them pretty inexpensively.  http://www.jnutter.com/

[Jeffy]

I have no clearance issues when I went to SOA so there was no need.     YMMV.

[Jesse-James]

I'd make sure it's 1/4" wall.  Gusseted is a good idea too.   Are you not able to use a dropped pitman to get the same effect, or are you expecting it to rub on a full right turn?

I am expecting it to hit. As of right now it looking like a dropped pitman and a slight gussed bend. 1/4" wall is a definite.

I dont have ANY experience with draglinks, but if you are looking for strength, logic would dictate that a bent rod will be less rigid and more likely to absorbe some of the force than a straght rod... 

This true, but the stock link is paper thin, so I'm thinking between the gussets and the 1/4" wall tubing strength shouldn't be an issue.

[Jesse-James]

BTW - when you get to the point of needing your Knuckles machined for the hi-steer arms, a friend of mine does them pretty inexpensively.  http://www.jnutter.com/

Looks like it's just for the D44's.

[oldjeep]

Looks like it's just for the D44's.

What kind of axle have you got?  If it's a kingpin 60 you don't need to do any machining. 

[Jesse-James]

Right now it's irrelevant as I'm running a 30, not sure what it'll be down the road. I'll definitely keep him in mind though.

[Jeffy]

I am expecting it to hit. As of right now it looking like a dropped pitman and a slight gussed bend. 1/4" wall is a definite.

This true, but the stock link is paper thin, so I'm thinking between the gussets and the 1/4" wall tubing strength shouldn't be an issue.

What perches are you using?

Might as well replace the existing drag-link with something thicker or at minimum sleeve the existing one.

[Jesse-James]

What perches are you using?

Nothing special, whatever my buddy's shop has in stock. Something I should be looking at?

Might as well replace the existing drag-link with something thicker or at minimum sleeve the existing one.

Either way we're making a new one out of 1/4" wall.

[Jeffy]

Nothing special, whatever my buddy's shop has in stock. Something I should be looking at?

Either way we're making a new one out of 1/4" wall.

Well, they need to be offset.  The RE's are the ones to get for the D30 and they're cheap.  THey also allow you to clear the drag-link without issues.

[Jesse-James]

Offset how? Forgive my lack of understanding here as some of this is new to me. Are they taller or something? How do they make for more clearance with the draglink? Looking at yours I can't believe it doesn't hit on a tight right turn.

[neale_rs]

If you look at the one on the driver's side you can see how the horizontal part sticks out to the left more than to the right. I think this is the offset.  Don't know about the height.