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Author Topic: Idler Pulleys  (Read 2745 times)

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Offline Jeffy

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Idler Pulleys
« on: January 09, 2009, 04:36:50 PM »
I think the idler pulley is going out on my Jeep.  I'm hearing a rhythmic sort of ball bearings in a can sound.  Took the belt off and was only able to get one rotation out of it.  Sprayed it down and got it to spin a little better.  It will need to be replaced though.  The other one will spin for days.  Looks like my thermostat housing is leaking a bit as well.

So should I go with the $21 pulley or the $30?

I don't see much of any difference.




This one costs $35 but looks to be OEM.
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Offline FourbangerYJ

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Re: Idler Pulleys
« Reply #1 on: January 09, 2009, 04:47:35 PM »
If the budget is tight go cheap. If not go big!
What brands are they?
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Using tools you have not used in a while is like shaking hands with old friends. :nod:

Offline Jeffy

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Re: Idler Pulleys
« Reply #2 on: January 09, 2009, 04:53:01 PM »
Quote from: FourbangerYJ on January 09, 2009, 04:47:35 PM
If the budget is tight go cheap. If not go big!
What brands are they?
Top two are Goodyear.  The bottom is Factory Air.  My OBA secondary pulley is plastic with no problems so I doubt it needs to be metal.  I think they are all metal though.

I don't think there is a 'Go Big' with idler pulley's,  :lol:
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bluepwr

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Re: Idler Pulleys
« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2009, 05:12:14 PM »
I had a pulley go out and I found a perfect match @ a lawn mover repair shop for 1/2 the price .
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: Idler Pulleys
« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2009, 06:00:17 PM »
More looking.  Seems I can order a Crown Replacement for $14.99 and $4 S&H.

Anyone order form Morris 4X4 Center in Pompano Beach, FL 33069?  I've heard of them before in searches but never order from them.

Anyone have an idler pulley just sitting around?   :naughty:
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YJmechanic

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Re: Idler Pulleys
« Reply #5 on: January 10, 2009, 11:14:16 AM »
unless you can get a actual bearing name for any of them i would just shoot for middle of the road
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: Idler Pulleys
« Reply #6 on: January 10, 2009, 01:18:46 PM »
Well, with my cheapest option being $11.35 from Willy's Offroad Supply for a Omix-Ada replacement.

BTW, the stock replacement numbers;

Replaces Part #     Years     Engine     Diameter     Grooves     Comments
CJ
J3239821    81/86    4.2L (258)    3.95" - 100mm    6    w/o AC, w/o Emission Pump
YJ
J3239821    87/90    4.2L (258)    3.95" - 100mm    6    
53002905    87/95    2.5L    3.55" - 90mm    smooth    
53002905    91/95    4.0L    3.55" - 90mm    smooth    
TJ
53002903*    97/98    2.5L, 4.0L    3.95" - 100mm    6    Idler only
4792112    99/02    2.5L, 4.0L    3.55" - 90mm    smooth    Idler
4792112    97/02    2.5L, 4.0L    3.55" - 90mm    smooth    On Tensioner
53010230    01/04    2.5L    3.00" - 76mm    smooth    
4854092    00/06    4.0L    3.00" - 76mm    smooth    Includes shaft
4854089AB    00/06    4.0L         smooth    Complete Tensioner
SJ
J3239821    81/90    4.2L (258)    3.95" - 100mm    6    
XJ
53010230    96/00    2.5L, 4.0L    3.00" - 76mm    smooth    Upper idler
53010230    96/01    4.0L    3.00" - 76mm    smooth    Upper idler - RHD only
53002903*    97/98    2.5L, 4.0L    3.95" - 100mm    6    Idler only
53002905    87/95    2.5L, 4.0L    3.55" - 90mm    smooth    
4792112    96/01    2.5L, 4.0L    3.55" - 90mm    smooth    
53010309    87/91    4.0L    4.57" - 116mm    smooth    At Water Pump
ZJ, ZG
53002905    93/96    4.0L    3.55" - 90mm    smooth    Fits 6 groove belt
53010230    97/98    4.0L    3.00" - 76mm    smooth    Upper idler
4792112    97/98    4.0L    3.55 - 90mm    smooth    Fits 6 groove belt
53009508    93/98    5.2L, 5.9L    3.55" - 90mm    smooth    Fits 7 groove belt
53010158    93/98    5.2L, 5.9L    3.15" - 80mm    7    Complete Tensioner
WG
4854092    99/04    4.0L    3.00" - 76mm    smooth    Includes shaft - metal
53030958AC    99/04    4.7L              
4854089AB    00/06    4.0L         smooth    Complete Tensioner
KJ
53013324AA    02/05    2.4L    3.00" - 76mm    smooth    
5142573AA    02/07    2.5L Diesel    3.00" - 76mm    smooth    Includes shaft - plastic
5142573AA    03/07    2.8L Diesel    3.00" - 76mm    smooth    Includes shaft - plastic
5142798AA    02/07    2.5L Diesel    2.60" - 66mm    smooth    Tensioner
5142798AA    03/07    2.8L Diesel    2.60" - 66mm    smooth    Tensioner
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

YJmechanic

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Re: Idler Pulleys
« Reply #7 on: January 11, 2009, 08:58:59 PM »
factory may be timken but not sure, either way it is just an idler,  i wouldn't put too much into it
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00TJ

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Re: Idler Pulleys
« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2009, 05:37:51 AM »
Hey Jeffy, interesting question about your idler pulleys. (Dadgum, you do know how to research - tip of the hat.) Perhaps more than one of us would dismiss the idea of replacing them during a routine repair event.

A year ago, I replaced my water pump with a NAPA unit and three or fours after putting it back on the road, I started getting a little squeak/squeal on startup that would go away by the time I hit the end of the driveway. Few days later, it takes getting to the stop sign about a block from the house, then to the highway a couple weeks after that. By that time, I think 'idler pulley, ps pump, or alternator. Couldn't be that new water pump.'

So...replaced the idler on the rh side but don't remember why just that one. Noise went away for a few days then returned.
That's when I bought a fire  extinguisher because I could just see a 'Jeep-burn-down' somewhere along my 25-mile commute.

Eventually replaced the lh idler - no joy. That's when I went to Carquest and got another water pump which fixed it.

All that to say, if I had known about this site I may have saved a little bread but, the peace of mind from having eliminated a heat generating problem was worth what money I did spend.
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99tj

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Re: Idler Pulleys
« Reply #9 on: January 17, 2009, 08:56:05 AM »
If the pulley it's self isn't recked,what i did is pressed the old bearing out and put in a new one. I think it cost me $5.00.
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: Idler Pulleys
« Reply #10 on: January 17, 2009, 11:52:40 AM »
Quote from: 00TJ on January 17, 2009, 05:37:51 AM
Hey Jeffy, interesting question about your idler pulleys. (Dadgum, you do know how to research - tip of the hat.) Perhaps more than one of us would dismiss the idea of replacing them during a routine repair event.

A year ago, I replaced my water pump with a NAPA unit and three or fours after putting it back on the road, I started getting a little squeak/squeal on startup that would go away by the time I hit the end of the driveway. Few days later, it takes getting to the stop sign about a block from the house, then to the highway a couple weeks after that. By that time, I think 'idler pulley, ps pump, or alternator. Couldn't be that new water pump.'

So...replaced the idler on the rh side but don't remember why just that one. Noise went away for a few days then returned.
That's when I bought a fire  extinguisher because I could just see a 'Jeep-burn-down' somewhere along my 25-mile commute.

Eventually replaced the lh idler - no joy. That's when I went to Carquest and got another water pump which fixed it.

All that to say, if I had known about this site I may have saved a little bread but, the peace of mind from having eliminated a heat generating problem was worth what money I did spend.
I replaced my WP years ago when it had a really faint squeak.  The other guy who helped me do the swap was amazed that I could even hear the squeak and could tell what it was.  :lol:

I know this time it's the ilder though.  I took the belt off and rotated by hand everything but the crank.  I could feel the grit in the idler.  Although it seems that I was able to clean it up some so it's stopped making noise.  BUT I should replace it anyway.  $11 for a new idler isn't that big of a deal and I don't have a press to get the bearing out.  Although I could probably figure out a way.  For $3 more I don't have to waste my time and it's a 5 minute job to swap out the idler.
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gomi

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Re: Idler Pulleys
« Reply #11 on: January 18, 2009, 11:46:40 AM »
Any idea on what the cost would be to take it in? I think I may need a replacement as well, but not sure if I want to fuss with it in 8 degree weather.
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: Idler Pulleys
« Reply #12 on: January 18, 2009, 12:02:15 PM »
Quote from: gomi on January 18, 2009, 11:46:40 AM
Any idea on what the cost would be to take it in? I think I may need a replacement as well, but not sure if I want to fuss with it in 8 degree weather.
Mechanics get estimates by looking it up in a book.  It will probably say the job will take 30-45 minutes by the book. At anywhere from $65-150/hour it won't be cheap.

Really though, it's pretty easy to do.  If it's not bad, I'd just leave it till it gets a bit warmer.
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Offline chardrc

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Re: Idler Pulleys
« Reply #13 on: January 18, 2009, 02:48:31 PM »
Quote from: Jeffy on January 18, 2009, 12:02:15 PM
Mechanics get estimates by looking it up in a book.  It will probably say the job will take 30-45 minutes by the book. At anywhere from $65-150/hour it won't be cheap.

Really though, it's pretty easy to do.  If it's not bad, I'd just leave it till it gets a bit warmer.


warmer... its 27 in Minnesota today and i was sweating  when shoveling the snow from under my high centered jeep (damn 1inch tcase lowering and open front diff :rant:) after a week of -20, 27 above is sweatshirt weather... :lol:
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logdog

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Re: Idler Pulleys
« Reply #14 on: January 18, 2009, 03:09:26 PM »
I replaced mine a couple of months ago with a Gates unit (p/n 38042) from O'Reilly.  It was all metal and seems to be holding up quite well.  It was 22 bucks which I didnt think was too bad.
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