Author Topic: jeep painting  (Read 5179 times)

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GBJeep

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jeep painting
« on: March 30, 2009, 04:11:36 PM »
Hey Guys,

I have decided to jump in and paint my Jeep.  It has a crappy Macco safety cone orange paint job currently.  I am not looking to make it perfect, but I want it to look nice.  I have limited experience in painting.  I am doing all of the body work this weekend, and planning on painting next weekend.

My dillema is what type of paint job to do.  I have read everything I can on the roll-on paint jobs and rattle can jobs.  In your opinions what is better.  I am looking to have a nice paint job that will take no longer than 3 days, or cost more than $200. The roll-on method looks like it can turn out nice, but people seem to have alot of issues with it.  I have a garage and the outside temps should be in the 50's.  It is also my DD. 

In your guys' experience what is the best way to do this.  I have limited funds, so that is why I am doing it myself.  I am not against the hammered finish, I do need to see better picts of the finished product.  My ultimate goal is to have a nice paint job with as few hurdles as I can.

Any and all help would be appreciated!  I will be posting pics of the work as it gets done. 

Thanks!! 

Jesse-James

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2009, 04:14:06 PM »
The roll-on method looks like it can turn out nice, but people seem to have alot of issues with it. 

What issues? Links?

Offline Jeffy

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #2 on: March 30, 2009, 04:34:52 PM »
I'd take the front clip off and paint it separately.  If I was going to paint the Jeep, I'd consider using Hammerite Hammered finish.  It's a bit textured but looks really cool.  Not to mention Hammerite is stronger then regular paint and will hold up better.  Also, the texture of the paint will hide any imperfections the body may have.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

GBJeep

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #3 on: March 30, 2009, 05:34:49 PM »
Jesse James - www.rolledon.com has alot, and I read about 70 pages on the Mopar Forum about people trying it.  Not that I dont think those people proly did something wrong along the way and that the runs and orange peel is most likely due to applying the paint to thick and fast, and not sanding well enough.

I am still thinking of that process. 

Jeffy - the hammerite was my first idea, but I have eased away from that as I have not seen it first hand and not sure how it would look on a whole vehicle.  Does the paint have a textured feel to it or is it just the look?  Would you spray that on or roll it?  If it has a textured feel to it also how do you sand and buff the paint? 

Really there is not much metal to the jeep (duh) so maybe the textured would look pretty good.  I am sure my body work will be slighty noticable.   

 

Jesse-James

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #4 on: March 30, 2009, 05:53:08 PM »
I actually did join that forum and I've seen the mistakes. I am just concerned with how it holds up.

Offline Jeffy

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #5 on: March 30, 2009, 06:39:58 PM »
Jeffy - the hammerite was my first idea, but I have eased away from that as I have not seen it first hand and not sure how it would look on a whole vehicle.  Does the paint have a textured feel to it or is it just the look?  Would you spray that on or roll it?  If it has a textured feel to it also how do you sand and buff the paint? 

Really there is not much metal to the jeep (duh) so maybe the textured would look pretty good.  I am sure my body work will be slighty noticable.

I've used Hammerite on axles and other hardware with good results.  The main is lightly textured.  That's what makes the Hammered finish.  It looks like someone took a ball-peen hammer and textured it.  The divots are what holds the darker color.  You would probably do one  or two coats and leave it.  I don't think you really need to sand and spray and sand then sand some more.  The texture hides any imperfections.  This isn't a paint job where you're looking for a showroom finish.  It's rugged and durable above all else.

The only problem with Hammerite is finding it.  It's not the same as Rustolium Hammered finish as that does not have the glass beads that make it tough.

If you want a smoother finish I would use Hammerite smooth finish and then block sand it then spray and sand for a smooth glassy finish.

Here's a interior does in smooth; http://forum.ih8mud.com/paint-body/264589-using-hammerite-rust-cap-results-pic.html

Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline TahoeYJ

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #6 on: March 30, 2009, 10:51:11 PM »
I don't have any pics of the finished product, but I used rattle can Dupli-Color Flat black to paint my hard top recently. Here's a quicky shot of how it was turning out. It's a bit dusty in this pic, but the finish is pretty nice for a flat black IMO




Not really 100% flat, just barely has any sheen. You could probably buy some in a gallon if you've got a sprayer and knock it out fairly quick.

I like the look of the Hammerite paint. But I don't know if I'd want my whole rig like that. When we used to run Outlaw go-karts my dad has his frame powdercoated with a similar coating, it looked SICK! I think it's great for smaller stuff
92 YJ. Lifted, 4:88's, 9" rear, 4 wheel disks, some armor, some audio, 35" KM2's, and more

GBJeep

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #7 on: March 31, 2009, 02:40:56 PM »
I do like the way the hammered looks on that metal.  I am just not sure if i want to the whole Jeep in it.  Has anyone done both the rattle can spray job and the roll-on job?  I would like to know if the spray will look as nice as the roll-on can.  I know the roll-on can be a pain, but it can also look very nice.  Then again if the spray is that much easier and can look pretty nice also, i would proly lean that way.  I know a lot of it has to do with prepping but assuming that is done decent I wonder what will be the best route to go.

Anyway, I have some fiberglassing and welding to do this weekend then its on to paint.

Offline TahoeYJ

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #8 on: March 31, 2009, 06:05:03 PM »
I do like the way the hammered looks on that metal.  I am just not sure if i want to the whole Jeep in it.  Has anyone done both the rattle can spray job and the roll-on job?  I would like to know if the spray will look as nice as the roll-on can.  I know the roll-on can be a pain, but it can also look very nice.  Then again if the spray is that much easier and can look pretty nice also, i would proly lean that way.  I know a lot of it has to do with prepping but assuming that is done decent I wonder what will be the best route to go.

Anyway, I have some fiberglassing and welding to do this weekend then its on to paint.
I imagine with rolling the paint on you'd have much less orange peel to deal with than spraying, but that probably has a lot to do with the sprayer being used, the paint, etc. You could sand in between each coat, but it sounds like you don't want to spend a whole lot of time on it. If you spend all of each of the 3 days on it, you can probably get a god result either way. I've considered trying the roll on method but haven't yet. I do want to try it eventually though
92 YJ. Lifted, 4:88's, 9" rear, 4 wheel disks, some armor, some audio, 35" KM2's, and more

GBJeep

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #9 on: April 03, 2009, 10:41:55 AM »
Alright, so I got my hands on a compressor and gun (gravity feed non HVLP) to spray the Jeep.  I have limited experience doing this, so any help would be appreciated. 

I also just found out that my little rust spot showing above my diamond plate is actually a moderate rust hole about 2in by 2in.  Should be fun. 


Offline chrisfranklin

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #10 on: April 03, 2009, 12:19:55 PM »
I rolled-on mine -- have some pictures on here somewhere -- a year or two back after I did the bodywork.  I think I have photos on the site, rolledon.com too (Checked:  http://www.rolledon.com/projects-f2/black-1994-jeep-yj-t30.htm)  Seem to recall using a one part polyurethane that was thinned 50/50.  It's certainly a doable if you have the place to work.  And the results you end up with are decent.  But, if you have the compressor and a place to do the job, I'd give that a go -- probably a faster process. 
'94 YJ S 5spd, Borla Exhaust, CarSound Cat., PS Ceramic-coated Headers, Airraid intake, 62mm TB, Intake Manifold bored/ceramic-coated, 19lb injectors, Sharp's Adj. FPR, MeanGreen Starter, D30 Aussie locker, 31" Destination MTs, Warn XD9000, Cibie headlights, armor

GBJeep

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #11 on: April 11, 2009, 11:09:21 PM »
For those of you who are wondering what happened...

After 4 full days worth, only 3 if I was aware that there is no other tape then 3M (never buy cheap tape!!), i have finally changed by jeep from safety cone orange to a gunmetal green metallic (there is no name for the paint, but that is what it looks like to me).  I got my hands on a Binks model 7 sprayer and a 50gal compressor so I decieded to go bc/cc. 

I will post before and after pics.  It looks awesome!  It is amazing what a fresh paint can do to your jeep.  I bought only 2 quarts of paint and used it all.  I would definatly buy more if there is a next time.  I ended with 4 coats of base and 4 coats of clear.  I was a little nervous of putting it on too thick, but found out that you really have to lay it on to get runs.  Now it is 40 deg. where I am and the garage was heated to about 55.  I did all of the work by myself, brother, and friends coaxed into it by free beer.  I did find that having the right tools makes the job go a lot faster.  With my limited experience using these tools I am really happy of the results. 

I think it will be worth it.  I spent about $400 total in all supplies, some tools, and beer of course.  I am just glad to have a Jeep I can look at and be proud that I did the work on it.  So that justifies my time spent.

One question is how long should I wait to wet sand, or if I should at all? 

I will be putting back together tomorrow and hope to have pics of my "new" Jeep tomorrow!

Offline TahoeYJ

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #12 on: April 12, 2009, 08:20:40 PM »
For those of you who are wondering what happened...

After 4 full days worth, only 3 if I was aware that there is no other tape then 3M (never buy cheap tape!!), i have finally changed by jeep from safety cone orange to a gunmetal green metallic (there is no name for the paint, but that is what it looks like to me).  I got my hands on a Binks model 7 sprayer and a 50gal compressor so I decieded to go bc/cc. 

I will post before and after pics.  It looks awesome!  It is amazing what a fresh paint can do to your jeep.  I bought only 2 quarts of paint and used it all.  I would definatly buy more if there is a next time.  I ended with 4 coats of base and 4 coats of clear.  I was a little nervous of putting it on too thick, but found out that you really have to lay it on to get runs.  Now it is 40 deg. where I am and the garage was heated to about 55.  I did all of the work by myself, brother, and friends coaxed into it by free beer.  I did find that having the right tools makes the job go a lot faster.  With my limited experience using these tools I am really happy of the results. 

I think it will be worth it.  I spent about $400 total in all supplies, some tools, and beer of course.  I am just glad to have a Jeep I can look at and be proud that I did the work on it.  So that justifies my time spent.

One question is how long should I wait to wet sand, or if I should at all? 

I will be putting back together tomorrow and hope to have pics of my "new" Jeep tomorrow!
You can wetsand within a few days I would think, I know body shop guys who have. If you want to wetsand it's up to you, if you've got some orange peel you want to remove then go for it. A thorough buffing afterwards will remove the sanding scratches and leave it looking nice and glossy  :hump:

If you need info on how to wetsand and//or use a high-speed polisher, lemme know... It's what I do  :smokes:
92 YJ. Lifted, 4:88's, 9" rear, 4 wheel disks, some armor, some audio, 35" KM2's, and more

GBJeep

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #13 on: April 13, 2009, 11:05:26 AM »
"You can wetsand within a few days I would think, I know body shop guys who have. If you want to wetsand it's up to you, if you've got some orange peel you want to remove then go for it. A thorough buffing afterwards will remove the sanding scratches and leave it looking nice and glossy 

If you need info on how to wetsand and//or use a high-speed polisher, lemme know... It's what I do  "
 
Tahoe YJ
Some info on wetsanding and buffing would be appreciated.  I used 2000 grit 3M yesterday and the white turtle wax polishing compound with an orbital and it looks bad.  Not all the orange peel is gone and some of the sanded spots are still showing.  The surface just doesnt look that smooth yet and i am not getting much gloss.  The orange peel isnt that bad but some dust settled on it while drying, and I want the glossy look. 

How do you go about your wetsanding, what cutting and rubbing compounds do you use, and what type of pads should I have?  I did pick up a variable speed rotary buffer.  I used to buff and polish at a detail shop while in college, but that is 5-6 years ago and most the cars were older with oxidation.   So I do have a little experience with the tools, but your expertice would be appreciated.   

Offline TahoeYJ

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #14 on: April 13, 2009, 06:35:47 PM »
"You can wetsand within a few days I would think, I know body shop guys who have. If you want to wetsand it's up to you, if you've got some orange peel you want to remove then go for it. A thorough buffing afterwards will remove the sanding scratches and leave it looking nice and glossy 

If you need info on how to wetsand and//or use a high-speed polisher, lemme know... It's what I do  "
 
Tahoe YJ
Some info on wetsanding and buffing would be appreciated.  I used 2000 grit 3M yesterday and the white turtle wax polishing compound with an orbital and it looks bad.  Not all the orange peel is gone and some of the sanded spots are still showing.  The surface just doesnt look that smooth yet and i am not getting much gloss.  The orange peel isnt that bad but some dust settled on it while drying, and I want the glossy look. 

How do you go about your wetsanding, what cutting and rubbing compounds do you use, and what type of pads should I have?  I did pick up a variable speed rotary buffer.  I used to buff and polish at a detail shop while in college, but that is 5-6 years ago and most the cars were older with oxidation.   So I do have a little experience with the tools, but your expertice would be appreciated.   
Well you're off to a good start using 2000 grit, I've had lots of people tell me to use that or nothing coarser than 1500 grit. I did a friends black BMW hood with 2000 grit and it took a while, but the end result was worth the effort. Just work in the same direction all the way around the vehicle (or wherever you decide needs wetsanding) and don't use too much pressure. Go against the grain of your fingers (if that makes sense) as much as possible. If you don't, you'll have lines from your fingers that will be a PITA to remove. If you you don't feel comfortable sanding too much just do a small spot, buff it out, and see how it looks. That's pretty much what I did the first time I wetsanded a vehicle. After you've made some progress you can sort of tell when you've leveled off the orange peel as best as possible without burning through the clear (You're going to be buffing afterwards, so don't take off too much or you could easily go through the clear when compounding.) Again just work slow and don't be too afraid. If you're confident then you shouldn't have a problem.

If you've got some experience using a rotary, that's another great start. Because it will be IMPOSSIBLE to remove those sanding scratches without an abrasive product and heat (from the high speed rotary) to break the product down. A wool cutting pad and fairly abrasive product works well for removing sanding scratches, and on black don't be surprised if you've got to do 2+ full passes to remove the scratches. Run the machine around 1500-1700 RPM's and just keep it moving. Tape off your edges/molding/whatever to help avoid burning things and messing up your pad. You'll have some swirl marks left behind from compounding, no biggie. If you want them 100% gone, you'll need to do a 3-step polish or even more. By 3 steps, I mean Compounding (To remove sanding marks), a lightly abrasive polish to remove the deep holograms from the compound, and a finish polish to get that swirl-free, glossy look. This is where I see a lot of body shops screw up, they go straight from compounding to applying a glaze, so within a month the car is covered in swirls and the sanding scratches are evident again. Do each step thoroughly if you want a glossy, defect-free finish. And as you progress to each step you will see an improvement. The compounding might leave a light haze behind, which is where a lighter duty product/pad comes in. After that, the final polish. You can even slap on a hand glaze to hide any possible defects and just deepen the finish a bit.

After that, just wax it and you're good to go. As for wax, if you're going to use a generic auto parts store style wax, any of them will do. You can use other products though, such as Poorboys, P21S, Pinnacle, P&S, whatever. If you want some links to products/more advice I can point you in the right direction.

I kinda threw all this together for you really quickly as I'm about to head out for a bit, but feel free to ask if you need me to clarify something or need more info...
92 YJ. Lifted, 4:88's, 9" rear, 4 wheel disks, some armor, some audio, 35" KM2's, and more