Author Topic: jeep painting  (Read 5183 times)

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Jesse-James

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #15 on: April 14, 2009, 07:17:54 AM »
If you want some links to products/more advice I can point you in the right direction.

Yes, please. I'm starting mine fairly soon.

Offline TahoeYJ

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #16 on: April 14, 2009, 01:38:47 PM »
Yes, please. I'm starting mine fairly soon.
Well, I'll start off with what I use... Presta Products. Here's a link to their Ultra Cutting Creme Light,

http://www.malcopro.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=173&category_id=1171&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=608

Hands down the BEST compound I've used to date. Very little to no dusting while working with it, and it cuts very quickly and doesn't dry up/gunk up like other compounds. 2-3 passes should easily take out sanding scratches and more. Again you'd use a heavy cut wool pad with this to remove the scratches, as foam just won't cut it (no pun intended...). After 1-2 passes with it you can probably step down to a foam cutting pad with this product, the finish will start to become glossier and have less of a haze. A high powered Halogen light is your best friend while buffing, shine it on the paint to check your progress. Don't beat yourself up over the small defects, a Halogen will show things sunlight never will. At least with a dark color such as black. Oh, and you have no need to work this stuff at more than 1700 RPM's. It cuts very well around that speed. Also you don't need more than maybe 1-2 beads of polish on each panel to work with. About as thick as a pencil and maybe 10-12" long. But this can vary, and you'll find what works best for you as you're working your way around the Jeep.

After that, I'd step down to their 1500 polish

http://www.malcopro.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=174&category_id=1169&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=608

It does have a tendency to gunk up, but it all depends on how much product you're using and the pad. Like UCCL it works quickly and doesn't really dry out, and it has a nice smell to it I think  :hump:
You'll need one pass for sure, 2 depending on how near-perfect you want the finish.

And finally, their Swirl Remover.

http://www.malcopro.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=175&category_id=1169&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=608

I have yet to find ANY finishing polish that will leave a dark colored finish 100% swirl-free after buffing. It's aggressive enough that you can use it with a light cutting pad to remove small defects but it still finishes off like butter. Works best around 12-1400 RPM's, and 1 pass should get the finish looking great. This stuff actually works even better when you use less product than normal, and mist the finish with some water or SILICONE FREE Quick Detailer spray, I stress the silicone free part because this product, as the rest of the Presta line, doesn't contain silicone/fillers, they're all 100% polish. They can be revived with water if they dry out and it makes the product spread even further than normal. I've used the Swirl Remover both with and without misting each panel before buffing, I get the same result either way but some like the latter more.

As for pads, I use a company called The Edge pads.

http://www.autogeek.net/theedgebuffing.html?gclid=CNfW9aqM8ZkCFRwpawodbk_FQw

They're a double-sided, quick connect pad system and they have TONS of different pads and they last a long time. Plus, they're sort of partnered with Presta (You can actually buy the Presta kit with the polishes and these pads), so the color of each pad corresponds with each level of polish. For instance, their yellow cutting pads go with the Ultra Cutting Creme Light, green light cut pads with 1500 polish, and blue finishing pads for Swirl Remover. Here's a list of what each color pad is for...

Black Wool- EXTREME cutting. This baby will cut through just about ANYTHING! It's s'posed to be used for gel coats and removing I believe 1000 grit and finer sanding scratches, You shouldn't need this aggrsssive of a pad though.

Yellow Foam & Wool- Medium cut pads. Never had experience with the yellow wool pad, but the foam one kicks ass. I LOVE this pad for damaged finishes. When used with Ultra cutting Creme Light it cuts incredibly quick and well. You could possibly use this pad after using the wool pad, but the next pad down (green) should work too though.

Green Wool & Foam- Light cutting pads. The Green wool works well for removing the sanding scratches, oxidation, and can even be used for light polishing, I just personally prefer foam for polishing over wool. The green foam pad works great for light compounding and polishing too of course, it's really a pretty versatile pad. I've used it along with SR for fa quick, one-step polishing on some customer cars.

Blue Foam and Wool- Again no use with the wool blue pad, but LOTS of use with the foam one. It's a very soft foam and is meant for final polishing.

Now, just because each pad color corresponds with a certain Presta Product doesn't mean you've got to use that combination, you can use more or less any product you want with each pad. But- this is how they perform their best.

I've used other products, but the Presta/Edge system is what I learned on and I support it 110%. I've tried other pads/prodcuts and although they work, I always come back to Presta. They have yet to let me down.


You can get the whole kit for under $150 I believe, and it comes with compound, 1500 polish, Swirl Remover, 3+ pads, the adapter for the pads, their "Fas Wax" (SUCKS imo... don't use it...), and IDK what else... Been a while since I bought my kit. Again these are the products I personally use and know how to work, which is why I'm recommending them. I know this system works and with proper technique, you'll get outstanding results.

You can check out other products too...

www.autogeek.net has TONS of prodcuts
www.pakshack.com is another
www.detailcity.com has lots of products
www.poorboysworld.com is an independent dude back east, he has some great waxes/sealants. I have yet to try his polishes though... But I've enever heard anything bad about them...

And for any other information you can read through, check out www.detailcity.org (Yes, org... the dot com one is the guy's store. dot org is the forum address...)

Lots more I could explain and go into detail about, so if you have any questions still feel free to post  :smokes:


92 YJ. Lifted, 4:88's, 9" rear, 4 wheel disks, some armor, some audio, 35" KM2's, and more

Jesse-James

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #17 on: April 14, 2009, 08:54:05 PM »
Wow, lots of info. Kit is for a 7" buffer I take it? I'll look into that, $133 at their online store ain't bad.

I'm sure I'll have a ton of ?'s later. When I was a teenager I spent a summer in a body shop clay barring and buffing, but that was a long time ago and it was on Case tractor parts so it wasn't critical work either.

Offline Jeffy

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #18 on: April 14, 2009, 10:00:25 PM »
Wow, lots of info. Kit is for a 7" buffer I take it? I'll look into that, $133 at their online store ain't bad.

I'm sure I'll have a ton of ?'s later. When I was a teenager I spent a summer in a body shop clay barring and buffing, but that was a long time ago and it was on Case tractor parts so it wasn't critical work either.
Go with the Hammerite and spend the extra time drinking.  :smokes:
« Last Edit: April 14, 2009, 10:00:49 PM by Jeffy »
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Jesse-James

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #19 on: April 14, 2009, 10:26:27 PM »
Hammerite would be too difficult to remove. I plan on using the Jeep as a test before I start another project, want to see what kind of finish I can get.

Offline TahoeYJ

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #20 on: April 14, 2009, 11:26:50 PM »
Wow, lots of info. Kit is for a 7" buffer I take it? I'll look into that, $133 at their online store ain't bad.

I'm sure I'll have a ton of ?'s later. When I was a teenager I spent a summer in a body shop clay barring and buffing, but that was a long time ago and it was on Case tractor parts so it wasn't critical work either.
Well at least you know what a clay bar is and how to use one!  :smokes: Granted there's no use for one when working on a fresh finish, at least you know what they are. So many people don't, and don't realize how much of a difference it can make.

The kit is for a rotary buffer yes, any kind at that. As long as it's a variable speed, high speed rotary it'll work with it.

If you're using the Jeep as a test to see what kind of finish you can get, definitely take your time sanding and buffing. All the hard work will make it worthwhile in the end. Granted it's a Jeep and it'll more than likely get scratched, who cares! I plan on doing my Jeep someday and since it's white barely anything shows. And I don't encounter too much brush on the trails I run
92 YJ. Lifted, 4:88's, 9" rear, 4 wheel disks, some armor, some audio, 35" KM2's, and more

GBJeep

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #21 on: April 15, 2009, 08:40:18 AM »
TahoeYJ - thanks for the info.  I went to the paint shop where I bought my paint and had their "expert" look at my finish.  He felt I may have been a bit light with the clear, but I ended up buying some 1500, a new wool pad, and Maguires Diamond Cut Compound 2.0 #85.  I was kinda excited to see how it would turn out and so I did my tailgate last night.  WOW! Huge difference.  I wet sanded it down and buffed it out to a nice shine.  The tailgate feels like glass and I have my shine.  Now I only have to go over the whole Jeep tonight to get it that way. 

If I tape some of my edges to not burn them, how do you go over that spot?  With the tailgate there were a lot of edges to be careful for. 

Offline TahoeYJ

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #22 on: April 15, 2009, 10:57:20 AM »
TahoeYJ - thanks for the info.  I went to the paint shop where I bought my paint and had their "expert" look at my finish.  He felt I may have been a bit light with the clear, but I ended up buying some 1500, a new wool pad, and Maguires Diamond Cut Compound 2.0 #85.  I was kinda excited to see how it would turn out and so I did my tailgate last night.  WOW! Huge difference.  I wet sanded it down and buffed it out to a nice shine.  The tailgate feels like glass and I have my shine.  Now I only have to go over the whole Jeep tonight to get it that way. 

If I tape some of my edges to not burn them, how do you go over that spot?  With the tailgate there were a lot of edges to be careful for. 
Just tape them off the best you can, you only have to worry about it during the wetsanding process, as the edges are where the clear is the thinnest (According to what I've been told anyway...) But really- it's up to you if you want to tape off your edges or not. I did the first few times but I just do my best to stay clear from the when I do wetsand nowadays...

And yeah, it really does make a big difference!  :smokes:
92 YJ. Lifted, 4:88's, 9" rear, 4 wheel disks, some armor, some audio, 35" KM2's, and more

GBJeep

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #23 on: May 13, 2009, 09:57:57 AM »
Well it is finally done!  I shot the clear a little light, but I noticed this after I returned the gun and took all the tape off and cleaned the garage.  So after 3 wetsandings (I am sure there is not much clear left now) and using a compound, swirl remover, polish, and wax I think it looks pretty good for a first time. 

Here is a before shot.


Here are two afters.



In addition to the paint, i added some 31's, chrome rockers and hood catches.  I also got new taillights, as i did the round LED's last year, I bought some new clear ones with red LED's that look awesome.

TN00TJ

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #24 on: May 13, 2009, 11:33:15 AM »
Looks great!  Kinda satisfying, isn't it?

Offline chrisfranklin

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Re: jeep painting
« Reply #25 on: May 13, 2009, 04:00:39 PM »
The new green looks great.  Nice work!  (Gotta admit though: your original orange looked kinda nice from a distance in the photo -- up close was probably a different story though) 

I painted mine a while back.  Main thing I learned:  its good to have your own garage, covered area to do the job + a second, backup vehicle. 

If you are an  apartment/condo dweller in a city (like me) without your own area to do the work and -- at the time -- no backup ride and you are pressed for time (who isn't?), the difficulty level involved in doing the paint/body work yourself reasonably well seems to multiply.   Just thinking about it makes me thirsty  :beer:
'94 YJ S 5spd, Borla Exhaust, CarSound Cat., PS Ceramic-coated Headers, Airraid intake, 62mm TB, Intake Manifold bored/ceramic-coated, 19lb injectors, Sharp's Adj. FPR, MeanGreen Starter, D30 Aussie locker, 31" Destination MTs, Warn XD9000, Cibie headlights, armor