Topic: Another dana 35 question

[melbill]

I know a of of people will say it is a waste to upgrade a Dana 35, but right now I do not have the money to buy a beefier complete axle nor do I have the tools or shop space to build one up. I don't need a locker right now and when I am ready i will probably go with an ARB or OX. I am thinking about alloy usa or superior super 35 axles. Am I correct in that if I go with a 30 spline axe shaft I need a new carrier? I currently have 4.88 gears can I reuse these gears or will I have to change them? Would a truss be a better way to go? Is there a better way to get a little more life out of these axles? If it is possible to strengthen the axles enough I would rather spend my money on building up the engine. I have a 95 YJ AX-5 transmission, 31's may go to 33's but no bigger as this is my only vehicle and sees a lot of highway use. Off road is mostly trails, fire roads and some mud. I am from the Northeast and we don't really have big rocks.
Thanks for the help.
 

[FourbangerYJ]

Your 4.88's will work fine with the super kit. You will need a new carrier, it more than likely will have to be a after market one. Like A Detroit or ARB. The stock shafts are 27 splines (carrier too) the super kits are 30 spline, so they wont work together. From what I understand a open carrier is not avail. But I have not done alot of research on D35 30 spline open carriers.
The axle tubes are a bit thin and can bend over time. A truss will help with keeping the tubes straight.

[TahoeYJ]

One thing to keep in mind that I've seen others point out before, is that if you plan on doing some moderate to heavy wheeling, you'd better have a spare set of 30 spline shafts with you! Stock 27 spline shafts would be much more common on the trail than someone else carrying a set of D35 30 spline shafts  So if you break and don't have shafts, you could be SOL...

[jfrabat]

The D35 should be able to handle 33" tires with a locker if you upgrade and are careful with the skinny pedal; I have heard of people actually using the stock D35 with lockers and 33" (they just have to baby it along).  In other words, the D35 is not as bad as it is talked about, but it is the wak link.  Also, keep in mind that it will cost just about the same (a bit more, but not much) to do a D44 or 8.8 swap (assuming you are doing the work yourself) once you factor in the fact that you will need to buy a locker (the explorer 8.8 can be available with LS and disc brakes, but you will still need to regear, as it comes in 4.10), especially if you go my route (I have a G2 alloy shaft and ARB locker in my D35).

[aw12345]

It's all about choice, I have seen d35's break, and d44's break. Dana 35 is more proone to do so even witha super 35 kit. Truth be told a dana44 out of an XJ  or an explorer axle is a better choice for all the coin you are spending.
Stock a d35 will blow the spider gears and break axle shafts no telling which one goes first.
Maybe scrounge craiglist for a while for a rear end out of an explorer that is set up for your Jeep already
People do go nuts and feel that they need a Dana 60 or a ford 9" or a chevy 14 bolt after awhile.
That pr post a wanted add on craiglist for a built axle and see what comes up.
Also if you mainly run fire roads and a bit of mudding find a spare shaft some spider gears and some gear oil and the tools to change these parts and call it good

[BarneyJeep]

could do superior truss, and 27 spline C slip eliminator with alloy shafts, and you should be fine.

[melbill]

Would it be worth while to get 27 spine Yukon alloy shafts ($200) and keep the stock ones for when they break. Would this really add any strength while I save up and collect the parts for for what will probably be a Ford 8.8 or D-44 build.

[FourbangerYJ]

could do superior truss, and 27 spline C slip eliminator with alloy shafts, and you should be fine.

But if you add  up the cost of those upgrades, you could have the 8.8/D44 for less money and have a bigger R&P.

[FourbangerYJ]

Would it be worth while to get 27 spine Yukon alloy shafts ($200) and keep the stock ones for when they break. Would this really add any strength while I save up and collect the parts for for what will probably be a Ford 8.8 or D-44 build.

That is an option. Another is to look for some stock shafts as spares. They can be had for cheap.

[aw12345]

Still leaves the cheesy spider gears, its the number 2 thing that granates.

[jcsanders79]

Would it be worth while to get 27 spine Yukon alloy shafts ($200) and keep the stock ones for when they break. Would this really add any strength while I save up and collect the parts for for what will probably be a Ford 8.8 or D-44 build.

I don't see it being worth it.  You could probably find a complete 8.8 for close to that price.

[Jeffy]

The only thing is he has already installed 4.88's.  That sort of complicates the matter.  Normally, I would recommend going with a 8.8", 9", Toy 8" or Dana 44 but if he has no plans on going larger then 33's.  The locker though makes me want to say, cut your losses.  When push comes to shove, the D35 will spit it's guts out.  Be it the axle shaft or the spider gears.  Typically what happens is the axle shaft will break when a shock load is applied.  Either by reving up or having a tire suddenly grab.  The spider gears usually go when the axle tubes flex.  This causes the side gears to put pressure on the spiders which grenade.  A truss would help BUT it's more of a band-aid, I think.

Going with a new rear axle will give you all of the strength you're wanting and more option for better gearing if you do plan on going lower with the gearing.  5.13's and 33's is a nice combo.

[jcsanders79]

I thought he was thinking about gears not already done them.  I agree Jeffy if he EVER plans to put a locker in, cut the losses on the gears.  I've never understood putting a highdollar locker (ARB or OX) in a YJ D-35 when you could upgrade to an Explorer 8.8 so cheap.

[neale_rs]

I know a few guys who have gone for several years with no breakage with 33s on a D35.  For the type of wheeling you mention, I would recommend trussing and carrying some spare shafts, then run it until it blows up and then get a D44 or 8.8.

[Castr8r]

Yup, that D35 is a real POS!  Why, it could blow up at any time! Mine is 20 yrs.old and still running the original shafts- and swingin' 33's on each end.  I guess it's living on borrowed time...  Oh yeah, it blew up the original TracLoc on the PO and he replaced it with a lunchbox locker.  I guess the TracLoc couldn't handle 14.5X33" Boggers.  When I bought the Wrangler, I put on 10.5X33" BFG MT's, regeared to 4.88, and installed a TruTrac in the front.  It's been running 33's for at least 10 years with either a limited slip or a locker.  It was babied by being used to build trails for our Jeep club (TRJC.com) and in two off-road parks.  Heck, I gently used it on one of our more difficult trail complexes Sunday by running tailgunner behind a Built Jeep (King of the Hammers entrant).  I made it thru a mud hole he didn't; of course, he made it thru some other places easily that required a lot of skinny pedal by me.

If you're running a lot of rocks and have to attack every obstacle with a full head of steam, then swap axles.  If you like to finesse things and aren't in rocks a lot, then I'd say lock the D35 and carry some spare shafts if you're really worried.  Yes, D35's do break; I've seen it happen, but I've also watched 44's and 60's break, too.