Topic: DIY engine mounts

[6099]

Hi, i have some main eye bushing of the old OME springs. They fit squarely inside the engine mount brackets. Same width. So all I need is to sleeve it and fab some mounts.

But some buddies said that the poly material will melt in the engine bay as well as being too stiff for the engine. True?

Seen some MORE and Currie engine mounts using what looks like poly blocks. So I'm pretty sure it's ok.

Waht do you all think?

Thnks

[Jeffy]

The poly will work fine but it will be a bit stiffer.  The mounts wouldn't be too difficult to build either.

I've one one set of JKS/Currie that I modified to work with a 2.5L and helped another company make a set.  Both are poly.  Because I rev my engine pretty high (4000-5200) , the vibrations are tearing apart my exhaust hangers so I'm going back to Stock mounts on 1" blocks.

[6099]

Gotcha. Thanks.

[Krod]

here is what i did to solve that dillemma...
http://www.jksmfg.com/1_bmm_lift.htm

Best of both worlds.

[6099]

Thanks krod. But I already got a home built 1inch motor lift with a rectangular tube. Since jeffy talks about cracking headers I guessI'll be sticking with those rubber stock mounts.

[Jeffy]

I haven't cracked a header but I've broken many exhaust hangers.

I'd like to do a comparison of a budget lift and poly mounts though.  There are currently two companies that make them.  GoFerIt Offroad and JKS.

[jagular7]

Wouldn't a flexy cross-under pipe work to keep the vibration minimum on the exhaust?
Don't a lot of fwd cars come with this type of exhaust? So it would be rather easy to cut out a small section near/under the oil pan/trans and add this flexy pipe in.

[Jeffy]

Wouldn't a flexy cross-under pipe work to keep the vibration minimum on the exhaust?
Don't a lot of fwd cars come with this type of exhaust? So it would be rather easy to cut out a small section near/under the oil pan/trans and add this flexy pipe in.

That would fix the problem.  And you're right, a lot of FWD's do come with them.  It's usualy at the Y junction on the manifold.  I'm not sure if you can just add one though.  I haven't seen that flexible exhaust pipe anywhere.  Although I haven't really looked for it either.

In any case, the spacer engine mounts, are the way to go if you want a smoother idle.  But the Poly mounts are still stronger.  I never had any problems with mine until I started pushing the engine harder.

[Spelo]

How strong would the spacers need to be?  Do they need to be machined out of aluminum, or could you make them.  

If you took some 1" box steel and welded in sleeves for the bolt holes would that work?

[Jeffy]

I've heard of some people using boxed steel but I'm not sure if that would give you enough room to clear the second set of bolts.  Basically, what other kits do is give you one longer bolt and a screw on thread extender for the stud. JKS's is made from aluminum.  I think GoFerIt's is made from steel.

[Spelo]

After thinking about this for a while, I finally got around to making my own spacers.  I used some 1"x2" box steel, welded a stud on one side and used a longer bolt for the other.

The hardest part was breaking all the rusted bolts loose.  The spacers on the skid plate lowering kit had fused to the bolts, and I ended up cutting a couple of them off.  Good riddance!

Things turned out good.  There were no clearance issues, and no drive line vibrations.

More pics available on request.