Topic: Jeep out/Nissan in

[SMC4WD]

I can't believe I broke the Nissan...

190,000 miles and I guess it had enough.  I was driving home two nights ago and the engine started clacking...   Drove it to work the next morning and the clacking got louder.  Looked at it during the day, at work, and saw nothing.  (Lest I was able to look at it during the day...)  Then was the drive home...   Clanking became banging...  banging got worst and it wouldn't hold an idle...  mere blocks away from it was done for...  Believe it or not, it made it home... banging all the way.  Got it in the driveway and shook like a leaf.  

I'm convinced it's the motor, but how deep am I'm going to have to go?  
2.0L DOHV...  Hopefully it's a rocker, or a push-rod.  But if I had any money at all, I'll bet it's a piston issue, or a ring.

I have never fully dis-assembled an engine before.  So here's the first.  By February we get income tax back.  So that'll be when the rebuilding begins.  I can take it apart, but I can't afford to put it back together again.  


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So then, to the Jeep.  It's been down since the alternator issue from a few months ago.  Here's the very first thing that should be looked at...  FUSES!  There are two big 50A fuses inthe engine comartment, next to the battery.  THose were both blown.  Now the alternator was checked and it was bad, so maybe the bad alternator caused the fuses to blow?  I fully charged the battery and after replacing the fuses, everything seems a-ok.  

So the Jeep is back out as the daily driver, and the Nissan is in storage...  The Jeep is out on the road again.  

Welp, our gasoline bill goes up too.   :(

[Jeffy]

Clanking to knocking, it's the lower.  Most likely the big end.

[sbspence]

Yep... Rod, bearing...= bad. :(

 190k I'd do a complete rebuild or find a replacement engine.

[SMC4WD]

Yup...  Called a buddy and he said the same thing.

So now I'm looking a JDM engine...  Well, at least mid-February isn't too far away.

[MileHighTJ]

So then, to the Jeep.  It's been down since the alternator issue from a few months ago.  Here's the very first thing that should be looked at...  FUSES!  There are two big 50A fuses inthe engine comartment, next to the battery.  THose were both blown.  Now the alternator was checked and it was bad, so maybe the bad alternator caused the fuses to blow?  I fully charged the battery and after replacing the fuses, everything seems a-ok.  

So the Jeep is back out as the daily driver, and the Nissan is in storage...  The Jeep is out on the road again.  

Welp, our gasoline bill goes up too.   :(

Fuses only blow if they conduct their rated current (in this case 50 amps) for a certain period of time (depends on whether it's a fast or slow acting fuse).  You should look at the LOAD that the fuses are in series with.  The alternator generally will not source large currents to the load unless its voltage output increases dramatically.  If that's the case, then there might be a bigger problem than a bad alternator.  It sounds to me like you have bad wiring which causes a short somewhere.  I'd check all the wires in your Jeep with the battery and alternator disconnected with an ohm-meter.  If any power/ground pairs ring out then you've found the problem.  

[YJmechanic]

if the motor in your nissan is 2.0 dohc then it is probably and sr20det and they are everywhere.  just type in the engine code and you should get about a million places selling them.  there was a place i think called japanmotor direct that sold 30k japanese motors for about 600-800 for long blocks.  that is where my nissan got its motor at.

[Jeffy]

I doubt it's a SR20DET  "D" stands for DOHC, "E" stands for Electronic Fuel Injection and "T" stands for Turbo.  SR20DET's are not DOT approved since they were never sent through emissions certification.

More likely, it's a 1.6L/GA16DE or a 1.8L/QR18DE.  The current engines are 2.5L/QR25DE's.  Although you could swap a SR20DET if you don't have inpection or emissions then have a superfast sleeper.  Probably have to stiffen the body and beaf up the transaxle somehow.  $$$

[StefanBidi]

I doubt it's a SR20DET  "D" stands for DOHC, "E" stands for Electronic Fuel Injection and "T" stands for Turbo.  SR20DET's are not DOT approved since they were never sent through emissions certification.

You sure?  There's a guy around my neighborhood that has turbo G20 (says G20t on the back).  I've seen one other person with one of these around town.  I can tell you for sure that the guy in my neighborhood definately has a turbo, and since it's a G20 I've always assumed it was an SR20DET under the hood.  They both could have just been a swap... who knows?  The SR20DE was used in G20s, SE-Rs.

Either way, you definately do not have an SR20DET, if it's a 2.0L DOHC, it's either a QR or SR, chances are it's a SR20DE since the QR-serie was only introduced in 2000.  The non-turbo engines aren't that expensive, so a swap might be possible for cheap.  There's a guy in the Nissan truck board that is currently swapping a SR20DET to his Frontier... if I'm not mistaken, he said he paid $2k for everything (include RWD transmission).

[Jeffy]

You sure?  There's a guy around my neighborhood that has turbo G20 (says G20t on the back).  I've seen one other person with one of these around town.  I can tell you for sure that the guy in my neighborhood definately has a turbo, and since it's a G20 I've always assumed it was an SR20DET under the hood.  They both could have just been a swap... who knows?  The SR20DE was used in G20s, SE-Rs.

Either way, you definately do not have an SR20DET, if it's a 2.0L DOHC, it's either a QR or SR, chances are it's a SR20DE since the QR-serie was only introduced in 2000.  The non-turbo engines aren't that expensive, so a swap might be possible for cheap.  There's a guy in the Nissan truck board that is currently swapping a SR20DET to his Frontier... if I'm not mistaken, he said he paid $2k for everything (include RWD transmission).

The G20 never came as a Turbo in the US.  They probably added a turbo from a DET or went custom.  It would be a easier swap since it has a SR20DE in there already though.  I forgot that the pre 01's had 2.0L's so it's probably a regular SR20DE.

Personally, I like the KA24DET some people are doing over the CA18DET and the SR20DET's.

[SMC4WD]

Wow... Look at all the fun while I was away...

Just so you know, this particular 91 Sentra SE-R has a SR20DE engine.  Not turbo (I wish!).  

The JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) engines have between 30-40K on them.  With any replacement I'll have to replace the water pump, oil pump and use my exhaust system.  We have emissions here, just like everywhere else.

Because I work within the industry, I talked on guy into $350.00 plus freight.  I will probably dispatch a trucking company to pick it up and pay our companies' cost.

If I hadn't mentioned before, I'm 'married with (many) children'.  The wife wants it gone.  She wants the Jeep gone too.  She's tired of things taking money to run, but I'm going to stand strong.  If I could park the Jeep (again), it's only cost insurance and registration.  It has way too many issues to be a daily driver, and I just don't have the time (or money) to go through it all.

Damn...  is this a sob story of what???

So back on track...  I'm pushing for $500.00 to get the motor, additional parts and shipping (fingers crossed).  If I'm right around there, I'll do the labor myself and get the car back on the road.  I'm on a budget of zero dollars and I've already exceeded that with the telephone calls to L.A.

So I've got a friend who will sell me a SR20DET GTI-R for about $2500.00...  Any contributors??

[Jeffy]

GTI-R? Nissan only made GT-R's in the Skyline line. R31's used FJ20DET's. RB20DE and RB20DET from 89-92.  92 up used the RB25DE, RB25DET and the RB26DETT.  The RB26DETT was the R32 GT-R's engine.  It's a really nice motor.  All are I-6's.  I think the last one was made in 2003.

Although with Nissan's 35th (2005) anniversary Nissan wanted to do something special.  They wanted to make a Z-Tuned R34.  Problem is they stopped production on them and were forced to buy immaculate used cars with no body damage and less then 18,000km (20 in all).  Basically they took all the best parts they could fine to build a 500hp race car.

In any case,  SR20DET's came out of Silvia S13, S14 & S15's in Japan.  It would probably be the equivilant to the Camaro or Firebird. CA18DET's were used in the 180SX's.  Silvia's and 180SX's were known as the 240SX in the US but used the KA24DE engine.  It wasn't a high reving engine but had a lot of torque.  Those who didn't know any better just swapped to a CA or a SR Turbo just to be JDM.

Now you can throw down the JDM badge on your Sentra. :wink:

[StefanBidi]

Those who didn't know any better just swapped to a CA or a SR Turbo just to be JDM.

I hate people like that!  Just saw a fake Skyline today on the road, too.  This guy bought a G35 and rebadged it with Nissan, Skyline and GT-R symbols.  I almost side-swiped him just for being an idiot.

As a side note, I read a few months ago, that Nissan is now testing what was dubed a 450Z, which would probably turn out to be the next Skyline GT-R.  It's pretty much a Z with a VK45DE under the hood.  There was some body modifications and obviously the V8.

[saylor240]

back to the jeep for a sec..............OHM's law ..lower voltage= higher amprage.......so if the alternator is going bad IE: lower voltage and the load is pulling higher than rated amprage the fuse can blow .......is this right or is it diffrent with DC power?...if you replaced alternator and fuses and everything is working...........keep the jeep. also buy or borrow cheap ..amp probe set on DC current amps and check amp draw at fuses ( get loop around one wire ) if fuse is rated at 50 amps you should be well under...nissans are great ......ive owned a few . but were talkin about a jeep here........

[SMC4WD]

LOL!!  "but were talkin about a jeep here........ "  

Maybe we don't wanna talk this…  I can’t believe the battle that I’m having with my wife to sell both.  Sell the Jeep and the Nissan and buy something dependable.  I’m scared…  really scared…

Amps, Ohms and Volts…  It’s all kinda Greek to me.  I’m the other post I mentioned that I had two alternators checked out and both put out the right amount of volts, even under a load.  I needed to replace the positive battery connector and I spent money I didn’t have.  I bought a 10-fuse block, and a pack or spades and shrink-wrap.  I’m going to take all the wires that are connected to that positive post and move them away.  I’ll leave the winch cable, main starter cable, and one or two monster 6-8 gauge wires (one to the overhead console, and one to the amp).  I’ll feed one more to that fuse block and run everything else off that.  The list of what I’m going to run off that is scary, but it consists of 2 different sets of lights (relays actually), air horn relay, ARB’s wiring (compressor power), and alarm…   I’ve got like ten wires alone connected to that positive post that I can’t even think of all the others…

I hope that this will help diagnosing electrical issues.  I can simple disconnect all of the accessories, but still have a Jeep that runs.  Plus, it won’t look so cheesy under there.  

So far, it’s been a week and the voltage seems to be holding.  And the battery is getting charged.  Hopefully it was just as easy as a connection issue.  

Now back to the Nissan…  Income was E-filed today…   Maybe 3-6 weeks for the money back, and it’s all ready been allocated.  Now I gotta figure out the extortion of money for the engine.  

If I can get two vehicles in running order, maybe she’ll lay off the heat.  
Next will be her Suburban…   That needs the thermostat-housing gasket replaced.  (But that’s a V8…  I gotta go to www.8bangerSub.com to talk about that one)

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Hey!!  Thanks you all for letting me go on and on and on…