Topic: New LED tail lights

[Mozman68]

So, my new lights arrived today and I realized I may have an installation issue.

The ORO LIteDOTs actually use the stock opening and mounting points...and therefore, my crusher corners only have the triangular cutout....so, I need to now cut a round 4.25"? hole through my crusher corners and body.

Any suggestions on how to keep the hole saw centered since the bit will be sitting right where a hole already exists??

[FourbangerYJ]

I used a jigsaw with bimetal bit.

[TrailsLessTaken]

I think I dropped down a lil bit below the hole when i did mine so I didnt hit the fender well inside but thats on a YJ, dont know if that inner fender comes to the same spot on the back

[sharpxmen]

So, my new lights arrived today and I realized I may have an installation issue.

The ORO LIteDOTs actually use the stock opening and mounting points...and therefore, my crusher corners only have the triangular cutout....so, I need to now cut a round 4.25"? hole through my crusher corners and body.

Any suggestions on how to keep the hole saw centered since the bit will be sitting right where a hole already exists??

bolt on a sheetmetal or even plywood piece on the inside. you can use the old mounting holes even if they're inside the cutout part, the holesaw will center itself on the outside once you start cutting, you just need the centering hole at the beginning (and this piece will also come off once the hole is completed so you can use it on the other side).

[FourbangerYJ]

bolt on a sheetmetal or even plywood piece on the inside. you can use the old mounting holes even if they're inside the cutout part, the holesaw will center itself on the outside once you start cutting, you just need the centering hole at the beginning (and this piece will also come off once the hole is completed so you can use it on the other side).

Good tip!

[Mozman68]

All worried over nothing....I forgot that the wire access hole is below the center point....I have sheet metal to use as a guide.  Going to attempt to cut throough all of that steel tonight.  Now my only worry is that the hole saw blade won't hold up for more than one side....

[sharpxmen]

All worried over nothing....I forgot that the wire access hole is below the center point....I have sheet metal to use as a guide.  Going to attempt to cut throough all of that steel tonight.  Now my only worry is that the hole saw blade won't hold up for more than one side....

use cutting wax or motor oil to keep the bimetal holesaw lubricated and use low rpm (300 or so and by no means go over 500) the teeth would go away faster if it gets hot and sometimes the friction on the outside ads to the heat as well so don't go light on lubrication, it won't hurt in any way (if you have a bottle with a tiny hole in it and can squeeze on top of the holesaw when needed would probably work best, would also help wash away the metal bits so the teeth don't get loaded - release pressure periorically to allow the shavings to come out).

[Mozman68]

Thanks for the tips!...picked up some SS #10 hex head bolts for mounting and a tap as well....I think I have enough metal there to tap and hold the lights.....if not, easy enough to get a nut on the back side.

[Jeffy]

Finally getting rid of those overpriced LED's?     I would have recommended using the gasket type LED's and not the flange type that you bought.  The difference is the gasket type don't require any additional holes and tend to fall out and hang if they happen to get pushed in rather the break.

In either case it shouldn't matter if the hole is perfectly round or not.  The mounting flange will hide any imperfections.  For teh hole saw, drill a pilot hole with a smaller drill bit.  Once that's done the hole saw should follow that hole and not skip.  Some cutting oil would be a good idea for the hole saw.  You're cutting through corner plate as well as the fender so you might go through one a hole.

[Mozman68]

I was worried about the grommets not seating properly due to the thickness of the steel....and I kind of like the look of these a little better.

Just getting through the outer steel on one side....what a friggin' pain.

[Mozman68]

Only got halfway done last night...had to get a new hole saw for the passenger side....did finish up all the wiring though...everything is heat shrunk and wrapped...lights work great (they just can't be installed.  Will finish up when I get home.

[sharpxmen]

Only got halfway done last night...had to get a new hole saw for the passenger side....did finish up all the wiring though...everything is heat shrunk and wrapped...lights work great (they just can't be installed.  Will finish up when I get home.

i found that the cheap ones go away really quick (when i cut the hole in the fender for my snorkel the first one died before i was even 1/2 way thru, went out and bought a good one but it was $30 or so) - Bosch and Rigid bimetal worked best for me and they last longer

[Mozman68]

I DID buy a good one...but remember, I'm going through about 1/8" steel corner as well as the body metal.

I was actually surprised it lasted as long as it did since this is the same one I used to cut my front lights with....body is absolutely no problem, but those crusher corners...that's some serious sh!t.

[Jeffy]

If I ever get corner guards, I'm probably going to move my taillights into the rear bumper so I don't have to worry about them (being blocked) when I finally get around to doing a swing out.

I think the grommet type light would have been fine with that much metal.  You can trim the gasket as well.  I ended up buying my lights at Wal-Mart since I was there and they had them.

[Mozman68]

so...lights are done....the drill bit in the hole saw wouldn't hit the body, so I had to add this piece of wood to start the hole.




What took 4 hours last night took less than one tonight...what a difference a new hole saw makes...


sorry...cell phone shots.




They are brighter than hell...this is just the parking lights....