Author Topic: Stupid brakes  (Read 835 times)

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Offline Mozman68

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Stupid brakes
« on: September 28, 2009, 12:26:27 PM »
Who can help me with brakes???  I thought I heard some rubbing when I ran to the store last night and figured something from the Badlands got in my brakes.

Lifted the front tires and the passenger side won't spin freely....anybody know how to adjust these things??  Any direction or help would be greatly appreciated as I had to stay home today and would like to get it fixed ASAP!!

front side view



rear side view

 
:brick:
2009 Audi S5....what....its 4wd...sort of....

Offline neale_rs

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Re: Stupid brakes
« Reply #1 on: September 28, 2009, 12:32:28 PM »
I don't think there is anything to adjust. You probably just need to clean them.
'95 YJ, 33 x 12.5 mud tires, RE 4.5 ED lift, Atlas 4 speed, rear D44, ARBs front and rear, 4.56 gears, 8000# winch

Offline Jeffy

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Re: Stupid brakes
« Reply #2 on: September 28, 2009, 12:45:39 PM »
If they're not turning then clean them off and release the bleeder a little. Then check and see if they work ok.  The caliper should be floating on two cylinders and is able to slide on them.
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Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Stupid brakes
« Reply #3 on: September 28, 2009, 01:01:55 PM »
take the caliper out and clean the sliders (a brass or steel wire brush for your drill is probably best). Put some hi-temp grease on the sliders afterwards, but not too much so it won't drip on the disk or pads. install the caliper back w/o the pads and move it back and forth to make sure is not getting wedged, if it is locking somehow try and figure out what it is. You might want to push back the pistons but not too much. Install everything back and go for a drive, lift the wheel up and make sure it spins, if it's not you're in for a caliper rebuild - you'll have to take the pistons out and replace all the rubber parts and also clean the cylinders so there is no oxidation that would block the pistons from moving back and forth. Good luck.

PS: not sure how your calipers are built, some won't let you take the booth off the piston unless it is in fully, you could try and spray wd40 for example around the piston, push the pinstons all the way in, then back out and do this a few times - it could save you from rebuilding the calipers (cleaning/replacing rubber rings and gaskets/booths) but it could also result in leaking so keep that in mind when you do it. Also, when you push the pistons in the brake fluid will overflow from your brake reservoir, so you would probably want to take some out before that. Use some hi-temp grease on the pistons as well as it would prevent them from seizing (this could be your problem).
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
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Offline Mozman68

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Re: Stupid brakes
« Reply #4 on: September 28, 2009, 07:11:58 PM »
Calipers seem fine...rotor definitely warped...getting that taken care of tomorrow....at least I got to tear into the hub (there's a first time for everything).... :fish:
2009 Audi S5....what....its 4wd...sort of....

Offline dwtaylorpdx

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Re: Stupid brakes
« Reply #5 on: September 28, 2009, 10:27:38 PM »
You can buy caliper rebuild kits that have the dust seals and the o-rings fairly cheaply.

Its not hard the only variable is if the bore of the caliper is gouged rusted etc. then you need a new caliper.

I do these at the race track it takes me about 30 minutes per caliper...

Of course there is a lot less mud in them there.... :)

Dave
94 YJ - 2.5 Hesco Cam B&B Ported - AX5 Trans w/Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch - 4" Rough Country Lift W/Skyjacker Shocks - D44 Rear/ARB - D30/ARB - ARB Compressor - Warn M8000 in Custom Bumper - Reunell Rear Bumper - Metalcloak 6" Body Armor Kit - Tuffy Console - 265x85-16 Tires - 2M Radio

Offline jfrabat

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Re: Stupid brakes
« Reply #6 on: September 29, 2009, 10:13:22 AM »
You can buy caliper rebuild kits that have the dust seals and the o-rings fairly cheaply.

Its not hard the only variable is if the bore of the caliper is gouged rusted etc. then you need a new caliper.

I do these at the race track it takes me about 30 minutes per caliper...

Of course there is a lot less mud in them there.... :)

Dave


When I changed calippers and rotors it took me a bit under one hour (it was the first time I ever did it), and it was fairly simple...
'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Superwinch EPi9.0, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-5.13, 165A alt., 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Hydroboost