Topic: 8.8 tech

[VA_YJ]

Here's a link to an article on installing the Superior Super 88 kit.  http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/drivetrain/131_0610_super_88_axle_kit/index.html

This kit eliminates the c-clips, provides chrome moly axles, and replaces the outer bearings with Ford 9" style.  The kit allows you to use 5 on 4.5 or 5 on 5.5 lug pattern.  Cost is $500+ @ 4x4groupbuy.com

I don't really think you need this unless you are running 37s or larger.  The Ford 8.8 with the stock axles is stronger than a 44 (assuming you weld the tubes to the housing).  You're better off investing in a winch or upgrading your D30.

Welding Ford 8.8 axle tubes to housing (this is the procedure that we used)
Do this on a warm day if possible, to slow cooling
1.   Set up axle on jack stands
2.   Clean rust on axle tubes and adjacent housing
3.   Connect ground onto axle tube, out board of joint – don’t have current running through bearings
4.   Preheat with torch for about 1 minute, moving all around tube and adjacent housing – drive off all moisture
5.   MIG weld with appropriate settings for ¼ steel – weld 1” pass, then rotate axle 180 and weld 1” pass, continue rotating axle and completing 1” passes until complete
6.   Post heat weld with torch for about 1 minute, moving all around tube and adjacent housing
7.   Move ground to other side of axle and repeat steps 4-6.

The goal is to allow the weld to cool gradually, so the cast housing doesn’t crack

[sharpxmen]

Here's a link to an article on installing the Superior Super 88 kit. 
[...]

i think that's a similar kit to the D35 c-clip eliminator. From what i understand it's not a full floater (single bearing) so if you break an axle you could crawl for a little bit but won't hold for too long. I wish superior rather used the double bearings like the ones for the front hub and some sort of large nut on the back rather than the pressed on sleeve that holds the bearing on the axle.

[VA_YJ]

You are right, it's referred to as a "semi-floater".  With the disc brake 8.8s you also get the rotor to help hold the wheel on - for a bit...  I have an old Ford pickup with the 9" and there is a plate (with 4 retainer bolts) that holds the bearing in place - better than the Superior solution.

[sharpxmen]

You are right, it's referred to as a "semi-floater".  With the disc brake 8.8s you also get the rotor to help hold the wheel on - for a bit...  I have an old Ford pickup with the 9" and there is a plate (with 4 retainer bolts) that holds the bearing in place - better than the Superior solution.

i see. for some reason my common sense tells me that another problem would be the lack of support (once the axle broke there is no support point at the end of it in the spider gear), so the axle would "want" to rotate like this ^\  (looking at the vehicle from the back and that is the driver side if that makes sense) and not have enough support due to single bearing (not sure if i managed to put in writing what i am trying to explain). Anyway, considering the price difference and not getting a full-floater i would just go with cromoly axles rather - that was pretty much what made me get the D35 cromolys rather than the c-clip eliminator from Superior.

someone mentioned warn manual disconnect hubs - probably the only real full floater kit out there, but comes at a premium price.

[oldjeep]

someone mentioned warn manual disconnect hubs - probably the only real full floater kit out there, but comes at a premium price.

And the locking hubs are more prone to exploding than the shafts are.  The only reason for using the warn kit is if you want to be able to flat tow without removing the rear drive shaft.

[dwtaylorpdx]

You can use drive plates instead of the hubs,
that way you don't have the hub to worry about.

Drive plate is just a plug with splines inside to accept the end of the axle.

No moving parts.

Dave

 

[sharpxmen]

And the locking hubs are more prone to exploding than the shafts are.  The only reason for using the warn kit is if you want to be able to flat tow without removing the rear drive shaft.

... or use the neutral in your t-case (unless you meant something else that went over my head)

would the wheel fall off if the locking hub explodes?

[oldjeep]

... or use the neutral in your t-case (unless you meant something else that went over my head)

would the wheel fall off if the locking hub explodes?

Neutral in the tcase locks the front and rear shafts together in a 231.  Not the best flat towing situation.

Nope, wheel doesn't fall off if the locking hub explodes.  Wheel doesn't fall off an 8.8 if the shaft breaks either - unless you have drum brakes.

I have yet to see a broken 8.8 shaft, and we have many club members running them.

Drive flanges would be preferable to locking hubs on the rear, but if you are needing more strength than stock 8.8 parts - it's almost as cheap to step up to a D60.

[aw12345]

On the dana 60, even though they look big the pumkin only hangs 1" lower than a dana44

[oldjeep]

On the dana 60, even though they look big the pumkin only hangs 1" lower than a dana44

And you can shave them pretty easily.  The D60 I built for my CJ actually had more clearance than a stock D44.

[sharpxmen]

Neutral in the tcase locks the front and rear shafts together in a 231.  Not the best flat towing situation.

Nope, wheel doesn't fall off if the locking hub explodes.  Wheel doesn't fall off an 8.8 if the shaft breaks either - unless you have drum brakes.

I have yet to see a broken 8.8 shaft, and we have many club members running them.

Drive flanges would be preferable to locking hubs on the rear, but if you are needing more strength than stock 8.8 parts - it's almost as cheap to step up to a D60.

i see what you mean.

My point was: rather than the c-clip eliminator go with cromoly as it won't be safe to drive it back home anyway with a broken shaft in there so not really an upgrade other than being able to swap a shaft w/o having to take the c-clips out given that you would be able to remove the broken piece and you're not worried about chunks of metal that could be left in there. still imo it's not safe to drive with a  broken shaft even though the caliper would hold the wheel in (with or without the c-clip axles) - on the other hand with the locking hubs you can drive home if you brake a shaft (or if the locking hub gets busted) - that's what i had in mind when i mentioned the full floaters (although i didn't know that's a weak link with the locking hubs). And of course the D60 would be stronger - the bigger the better in this case but you give out some ponies the bigger the moving parts in the drivetrain so since for our 4 cylinders that is prime i think you need to find a good balance between size and strength - all this is based considering that you use it as a DD and that mpg and acceleration is a factor for you. If its an exclusive trail rig then yeah D60 all the way :)

so in his case my thinking is save some ca$h and go with cromoly (will be stronger than the stock and like you said they are not prone to braking anyway).

[jfrabat]

On the dana 60, even though they look big the pumkin only hangs 1" lower than a dana44

Yeah, but that would be equivalent of swapping from 37" tires to 35" (or 25" to 33")...

[drunkencityworker]

I have seen some shaved 8.8s...I would love to do that..I just dont have the nads...I would be afraid of ruining it. I was thinking of taking a grinder to the lip it has to help it slide over stuff easier.

[Jeffy]

I have seen some shaved 8.8s...I would love to do that..I just dont have the nads...I would be afraid of ruining it. I was thinking of taking a grinder to the lip it has to help it slide over stuff easier.

Grinding the lip off so there is nothing to hang up on is probably more important.

[drunkencityworker]

does any one have pics of smoothing out the lip so I dont take too much