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Author Topic: Is it the axel shift motor?  (Read 2098 times)

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Club Car

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Is it the axel shift motor?
« on: January 13, 2006, 08:57:34 AM »
4wd indicator light does not go off.  My jeep has vacuum at the end of the hose at the shift motor on the axel on one side, but not the other.  Is that normal?  The vacuum is on the driver side of the disconnect harness in both two and 4wd.  There is stronger suction in 4wd.

Thanks
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Offline Jeffy

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Is it the axel shift motor?
« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2006, 11:29:20 AM »
What year is your Jeep?  Also which way is your plug facing?  It should look sort of like an 'F' with the lines coming from the bottom.  If you have the plug reversed, it will lock up the front axle but not enguage 4wd since that is controlled by the transfer case.
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Club Car

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Is it the axel shift motor?
« Reply #2 on: January 13, 2006, 11:40:09 AM »
It is a 1995.  The plug pushes down onto the shift motor.  The hoses go forward towards the front of the jeep, wrap up and around back to the T case.  When I take the harness off, I have suction only on one side both 2 and 4wd.  When I remove the harness, the 4wd light turns off.
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Offline Jeffy

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Is it the axel shift motor?
« Reply #3 on: January 13, 2006, 12:25:31 PM »
Turn the line around so it points towards the rear. ( ie. you have it plugged in backwards.)
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Club Car

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Is it the axel shift motor?
« Reply #4 on: January 13, 2006, 12:30:39 PM »
Should the other side (passenger side) produce suction to when returning to 2wd?
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Offline Jeffy

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Is it the axel shift motor?
« Reply #5 on: January 13, 2006, 12:42:34 PM »
I'm not certain on what produced pressure and vacuum since I haven't looked into it enough.

I do know the vacuum lines should come from the bottom.  It looks weird but it's the correct routing.  When I did my SOA at a friends house he hooked it up and we debaited over it since I could feel the front understear and the light stayed on.  Switched it, the light turned off and there was no understeer.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline jagular7

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Is it the axel shift motor?
« Reply #6 on: January 13, 2006, 05:58:05 PM »
You could always get a 10mm socket and pull the plate/mechanism fork off. There will be a little residue of gear oil, but nothing really to be concerned about making a mess. Just use some paper towels, newspaper underneath, and be careful of the paper gasket.
Pull it off, see how the fork slides the collar over, and minimum get a look at the axle splines to understand why it take some seconds to actually get some pull from the front axle. Then go ahead and check the vacuum.
You never know, you may have a situation like I had on my 87 XJ years ago. The fork broke and it broke so that I couldn't get 4wd. Luckily I had an ARB and at least 3wd.... :D LOL
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Jagular7
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Offline Jeffy

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Is it the axel shift motor?
« Reply #7 on: January 13, 2006, 06:46:42 PM »
Ok, I've thought about this some more.  I had it backwards.  The lines do come in from the front.

Try this first.  Disconenct the 4wd light at the disconnect.  It's the single wire in the loom.  That will tell at least tell you if the dash light is working properly.

Next, you'll want to disconnect the vacuum lines.  If you have a vacuum gun, you should be able to ad vacuum to the outer line on the diaphram to get the shift fork to move.  If that moved and the light turn off, you can check those off the list.  Check the vacuum lines for cracks and leaks.  Then you'll need to check the switch.

It's pretty simple since the disconnect is a seperate system.
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Spelo

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Is it the axel shift motor?
« Reply #8 on: January 14, 2006, 07:56:03 AM »
If that doesn’t work you might want to check the vacuum switch at the transfer case.

I had this trouble with my 95 yj a few years back.  It started to take longer each time I shifted out of 4wd for the light to go out, and eventually it just stuck on.  A lot of people recommended ditching the vacuum system in favor of a cable shifter, but that's $200!

Just follow the vacuum lines back to the transfer case.  Disconnect them and remove the switch, it takes a fairly large deep socket if I remember right.  In my case the plunger was stuck in the up position, keeping the axle locked.  I got a new one locally for about $20.
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Club Car

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Is it the axel shift motor?
« Reply #9 on: January 16, 2006, 10:40:52 AM »
Spelo, your reply makes sense to me since there is only vacuum on one side, thus the swith is not operating to make suction on the other side.  How did you get to it?  Did you have to drop the skid plate?
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Offline Jeffy

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Is it the axel shift motor?
« Reply #10 on: January 16, 2006, 02:48:55 PM »
I think you're really going to have to open up the disconnect.  From what you've said, your only problem is the 4wd light is on.  You haven't not done anything to see if it's an electrical, vacuum, mechanical or any combination of the three.

First thing you need to do is check and see if the axle is in 4wd.  Take off the disconnect housing and look at the positioning of the collar.  If the color is between the two shafts then it is locked and you are indeed locked and continue checking the vacuum lines back to the transfer case.  If it is not locked then you it has something to do with the indicator light switch.

Again, don't forget to check the vacuum lines themselves.  They can and do crack and leak.

You might also want to read this ( http://www.4bangerjp.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=506 ) so you have a clue of what you're up against and where everything is located.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Spelo

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Is it the axel shift motor?
« Reply #11 on: January 16, 2006, 02:57:51 PM »
No, I left the skid plate on.  It's a little tight, but there was enough room for a ratchet.

If I remember right, I had to go out and buy a 1-1/16" deep socket (better double check the size), and it came out fairly easily.  Save the rubber o-ring seal as the new switch doesn’t come with one.

Here's a picture of the switch courtesy of Offroad.com , hope they don't mind.

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Club Car

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THat did it
« Reply #12 on: January 22, 2006, 06:59:24 PM »
The vacuum switch at the transfer case worked.  And Spelo you are right it is 1 1/16"!!
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