Topic: Changing rear tcase seal..... bushing?

[Bounty Hunter]

I use RTV, very sparingly.  I've seen it piled on and it breaks off, clogging the pickup filter to the oil pump.

A little RTV goes a long way, lay a small bead and rub it smooth with your finger.  Very little should squeeze out during assembly.

[Complete Loser]

I completely agree. Ive seen motors blow up, as a result of the oil pump pickup screen full of rtv bits. 

If used correctly, its great.

I personally have had even better experience with anerobic sealer. Lasts longer in the tube, seals more effectively in smaller tolerences. And doesnt gum up pick up tubes if a glob gets inside motor.

[Bounty Hunter]

Thanks, I'll take a look at it.  But I am cheap

[Complete Loser]

 


Bounty Hunter is the man! Even got me a bushing and seal. 

[Bounty Hunter]

If I had my blast cabinet already, it'd even be clean.  Had to post my dirty parts, didn't ya

[Jeffy]

Looks like he recovered it from the bottom of the sea. 

[Bounty Hunter]

And it was one of the better ones

[Complete Loser]

Alrighty. UPS finally showed up with my bearing and snap ring. But i think i got the wrong snap ring. It should be the size of the output shaft, rather than the OD of the bearing. ?


Anyone know where this one goes?

[Complete Loser]

   
Output Bearing Retainign Ring for 88-99 Jeep® Wrangler YJ & TJ with Model 231 Transfer Case
 $2.99   #52246.00

That be what i ordred. Looks like they sent me the input ring?

[Bounty Hunter]

That ring holds the bearing in the tailhousing.  The only other split-ring near the tailhousing fits around the mainshaft after the tailhousing is installed and before the tailcone is installed.

Why do you need to replace the split-ring?

[Complete Loser]

I did not see any place i could put this ring in the tail housing. The ring is too big. The smaller ring that goes on the shaft up against the bearing is what i ordered. I just reused my old one instead. No big deal. I bent it up a little taking it off. Thats why i ordered another. But it all good.

J

[Complete Loser]

Another concern. When i finally put on the correct tail shaft, i had to use a rubber mallet to actually tap the slip yoke/driveshaft into the tranny! Is that normal? Was a darn tight fit. Once in, i could rotate by hand no problem. And i confirmed the bushing didnt move. Just never ran across something like that.

[sharpxmen]

Another concern. When i finally put on the correct tail shaft, i had to use a rubber mallet to actually tap the slip yoke/driveshaft into the tranny! Is that normal? Was a darn tight fit. Once in, i could rotate by hand no problem. And i confirmed the bushing didnt move. Just never ran across something like that.

not normal, should slip in by hand. most likely due to the fact that it wobbled in there and damage the splines (unless there was rust on them).

[Complete Loser]

I confirmed its something about the OD of the slip yoke, rather than the ID (splines).
The tip of the slip yoke is colored (blue) a bit from being hot looks like.

Yay for previous owners! 

[Complete Loser]

Ok. Now back to this item.
Its bothered me that i have to drive the drive shaft in and out with a rubber mallet.
After a drive, i touched the tail shaft and its pretty warm. Hotter than it needs to be im sure. Hotter than the rest of the tcase .

So i hammered the driveshaft back out. Measured the OD of the slip yoke. Its a consistant 1.52".

The tailshaft housing was the one from bounty hunter. I left the bushing in it, as it looked very good.

So, now i have the shaft out, and took it over to the bench. I have a bushing by itself, and a 207 tail shaft housing with a good bushing in it also.
I can easily slide the slip yoke inside both of these parts.

So that leads me to believe the problem is the bushing in the housing currently on the jeep.

Anyone seen this weird problem before? Is it a thicker bushing in the t/s housing i got from bounty to accommodate a different OD slip yoke (smaller) driveshaft?