Topic: 95.5 Dual Diaphragm Booster

[neale_rs]

How do you gravity bleed them?  Open the fittings and let them drip out?  Excuse the ignorance, I just have not tried this before...

Yes, just open them a bit and let them drip for hours.

[Jeffy]

Yes, just open them a bit and let them drip for hours.

Kind of a slow way to do it though.  Vacuum gun would be a lot faster.

[sharpxmen]

Kind of a slow way to do it though.  Vacuum gun would be a lot faster.

you can use a bicycle pump and reverse the piston gasket inside

[jfrabat]

You want to bleed the longest lines first then work your way in.  Passenger side rear, Driver side rear, passenger side front, driver side front.  Make sure the reservoir never runs dry.

You might also look into getting a Mity Vac.  These make bleeding brakes a breeze.  You can suck fluid through the lines without having to have someone pump the brakes.

will doit this way then...

I looked for those, but the cheapest one was an industrial one with dual cylinders that was over $300...  WAY over my needs!

[Jeffy]

I have one like this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947058000P?vName=Tools&cName=Auto&MechanicsTools&sName=Auto%20Specialty%20Tools&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

Problem is, the rubber valve isn't working properly anymore.  So it neither sucks nor blows.  They sell repair kits which is nice.

[jfrabat]

OK, bled the brakes today, and there defenetly seems to be more bite to the brakes now.  Of course, I also forgot to unhook the brake pedal, so the brake lights stayed on for a whole day and I ended up draining the battery, so it's not like I can start the Jeep and test them!     Anyway, I left the battery charging, and tomorrow night I'll take down the booster, and take it to the guys that welded the old one for me so that they can weld some threads to the end, and I will use the pedal connector from the old booster to adjust pedal travel so that it sits at the correct height (and turns off the brake lights!). 

As a side note, I also took apart the Audiovox Cruise Control, cleaned it up, and reinstalled it.  Hopefully, it will work now, and I will have cruise control for the 16 hour drive back to Panama...  If not, I am seriously considering ordering a new one, as my right foot was REALLY aching when I got here from Panama!

[TrailsLessTaken]

You could always use a brick attached to a string to hold it down 

As a side note, I also took apart the Audiovox Cruise Control, cleaned it up, and reinstalled it.  Hopefully, it will work now, and I will have cruise control for the 16 hour drive back to Panama...  If not, I am seriously considering ordering a new one, as my right foot was REALLY aching when I got here from Panama!

[Jeffy]

Is the new booster on it's spacer or did you make a new one.  I think you mentioned that you got rid of your original one.  I'm just curious to how much adjusting if any was required to fit the booter to the pedal.

[jfrabat]

Is the new booster on it's spacer or did you make a new one.  I think you mentioned that you got rid of your original one.  I'm just curious to how much adjusting if any was required to fit the booter to the pedal.

I replaced the OEM one with a new (non OEM) one some years ago thinking that my booster was the cause for my crappy brakes.  That new one was different from the OEM one more than one way, but worked (at least as good as the OEM one) until a few weeks ago when it broke.  I never did measure to see if the spacer was the same as the OEM one, and it seems it is not, as the 95.5 one is a bit off on the pedal length.

Unfortunately, I cannot copare them any longer, as I gave many of my spare parts away when I moved out of Miami (looking at the prices of things around here, I kind of regret that decision!).

[Jeffy]

I replaced the OEM one with a new (non OEM) one some years ago thinking that my booster was the cause for my crappy brakes.  That new one was different from the OEM one more than one way, but worked (at least as good as the OEM one) until a few weeks ago when it broke.  I never did measure to see if the spacer was the same as the OEM one, and it seems it is not, as the 95.5 one is a bit off on the pedal length.

Unfortunately, I cannot copare them any longer, as I gave many of my spare parts away when I moved out of Miami (looking at the prices of things around here, I kind of regret that decision!).

What's the length of the new spacer?

[YJake]

I just did this swap to a freinds YJ last month and he had thbe same issues.

Brake lights staying on.
-You need to adjust the plastic sensor that controls this, it's under the dash up on the padal assembly. You need to push it towards the pedal a click or two, and yes there isn't much room down there!

Pedal going to floor.
You need to adjust the Booster rod that goes into the master cylinder. The new system has a different pedal stroke, so naturally you'll need to adjust (just like with the brake light sensor). There's a rod in the master that needed to be adjusted "out" on the one that I did for the pedal to have a normal stroke again. Be sure not to over adjust, it will cause your brakes to be slightly applied while driving!

I think that about covers it?


Jake :tea:

[Jeffy]

I just did this swap to a freinds YJ last month and he had thbe same issues.

Brake lights staying on.
-You need to adjust the plastic sensor that controls this, it's under the dash up on the padal assembly. You need to push it towards the pedal a click or two, and yes there isn't much room down there!

Pedal going to floor.
You need to adjust the Booster rod that goes into the master cylinder. The new system has a different pedal stroke, so naturally you'll need to adjust (just like with the brake light sensor). There's a rod in the master that needed to be adjusted "out" on the one that I did for the pedal to have a normal stroke again. Be sure not to over adjust, it will cause your brakes to be slightly applied while driving!

I think that about covers it?


Jake :tea:

What master did you use?

[jfrabat]

Sorry for the late reply; we were launching 3D TV's in Costa Rica yesterday, and things were a little chaotic...  Luckily, it all turned out fine.

What's the length of the new spacer?

I have not measured it yet, but I can get around to it if you want...

What master did you use?

95.5

I just did this swap to a freinds YJ last month and he had thbe same issues.

Brake lights staying on.
-You need to adjust the plastic sensor that controls this, it's under the dash up on the padal assembly. You need to push it towards the pedal a click or two, and yes there isn't much room down there!

I did not want to go this route for 2 reasons; (1) it's frikking hard for a 6'5" guy to fit himself in that tiny little space! and (2) the pedal would then end up lower than the clutch pedal, which I just did not like.

Pedal going to floor.
You need to adjust the Booster rod that goes into the master cylinder. The new system has a different pedal stroke, so naturally you'll need to adjust (just like with the brake light sensor). There's a rod in the master that needed to be adjusted "out" on the one that I did for the pedal to have a normal stroke again. Be sure not to over adjust, it will cause your brakes to be slightly applied while driving!

Actually, this had more to do with the bleeding; I bled the brakes, and now the pedal is fine.  I knew bleeding made a difference, but I did not think it would be THIS much of a difference!  Chalk it up to inexperience, I guess...

Anyway, this is the route I took:

• Put some threads on the booster and use the connector from the previous booster to the pedal so that it is adjustable at the pedal end. 
• Used the 95.5 master so that I did not have to relocate the airbox, which also meant relocating the power steering fluid bottle.
• Used new fitings on the brake lines going into the master.
• Bled the brakes
• Kept the vacuum reservoir I already had installed for the booster

Now it's working properly.  As far as improvement, I can feel some improvement, but I wish it would have been more. I DID find when bleeding the brakes, though, that the passanger side front caliper does not flow as easily as the other 3 brakes on the Jeep, so I still need to check the lines and see why this is happening.  This could be the source of my issues if the passanger side caliper is grabbing less than the other 3 brakes...

[chardrc]

did you do anything different with the attachment/ strength of the threaded rod than on the last booster so this doesn't start all over again.

[jfrabat]

did you do anything different with the attachment/ strength of the threaded rod than on the last booster so this doesn't start all over again.

Well, somewhat, to be honest.  What I did is that (1) the thread area is considerably shorter on this one than the old one, and (2) I did not tighten the lock nut nearly as much; just enough for it to prevent from coming loose on me.  Other than that, not much different. 

I still need to check the lines to see why the pass side caliper is harder to bleed than the rest (maybe a line is bent wrong, or a line is clogged; I dont yet know), as I think this is why the brakes are not up to my standards.