Topic: 10$ 20hp on ebay

[low output 2.5]

ok i see it every where its a lil capacitor thingie does it work? anybody use this? is it worth it? will it mess up my junk?  where exactly does it go?  and yes  iam full of questions

[Jeffy]

Well seeing that a capacitor only cost a few cents, the guy is making a decent profit.

As for if it works, I doubt it.

[MileHighTJ]

I'm guessing you're talking about a supercapacitor.  These capacitors are on the order of several Farads, which is huge when you're talking capacitance.  These capacitors are usually packaged in series which reduces the overall capacitance but increases the rated voltage they can handle.  Their capacitance values are usually pretty spectacular (considering normal tantalum caps are on the order of MICROfarads).  These caps are good if your electrical system sinks large amounts of current periodically and NOT continuously.  An example would be a woofer or sub-woofer.  They would be wired in PARALLEL with your battery/alternator.

Bottom line, supercaps are amazing if you don't put a constant current load on them.  They'll help to take the strain off your battery and are generally good for large sound systems.  I don't know of another good automotive system they would be used well in.  I can't tell you a good price for one, since I've only received samples (which were free).  I recommend more research on your part. :)

[low output 2.5]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/20HP-JEEP-POWER-SPEED-CHIP-GRAND-CHEROKEE-OR-WRANGLER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33597QQitemZ8031896803QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW   here is what im talking about  i figured someone has tryed one of these

[Jeffy]

Yup, that's the one I remember.

Those are not the same as the stereo amp capacitors.

[MileHighTJ]

Ok, I was way off.  I've never seen those things before.  :?

[low output 2.5]

w'hell should i buy one im searching for more power like all 4banger owners :roll:

[Jeffy]

Give me the $10 and you'll get the same performance results.  :D

[low output 2.5]

i was actually trying to see the color bands on one from a add then go to radio shack and pick one up the only other mod i can do for 10 bucks and get power would be to put some cox engine fuel in my tank :D

[midnightcwby]

Just out of morbid curiosity, you guys do know these are just $.05 resistors that are used in place of you Intake Air Temp sensor or Intake Air Charge sensor ect. (just about every auto maker calls them something different, and not all EFI systems have one) to fool the computer into thinking the intake air temperature (and thus its density) is something other than what it really is. It should make your engine run a little bit leaner, which can give a little bit of a performance boost I guess, but I've heard from others who have used them that they do indeed tend to make the ECM cranky and trip the SES or Check Engine light.  It's not the brightest idea for those of you who actually have to get your rides checked for emissions either (the ECM needs ACURATE information to adjust the mixture properly and the extra heat from running too lean isn't good for the O2 or the cat... poor kitty).

     I'd rather find a company who is selling an actual ECM replacement chip or even a piggy-back module that does useful things like re-mapping my fuel curve by changing injector pulse width to match more fuel at the right time to the extra air that the larger 4.0l throttle body and a low restriction air intake/exhaust system will provide. It would be cool if it could change the timing curve and stuff like that too.  If anyone has any information on something like this, definitely post it so we can all enjoy it!  I've spent some time on the phone with JET performance and they say they don't currently offer anything like that for our 2.5l's, but I can find one for the dang 4.0ls all day. It just isn't fair.

[midnightcwby]

If anyone REALLY wants to try this, and is able to read the color band on one of the resistors in a picture, I'll email you the color band chart so you can find the exact resistance value of the resistor. Radio Shack has them, but they are over priced as well. MCM electronics or other electronic wholesalers will give you better deals than Radio Shack.

I wouldn't endorse this idea, but maybe you could use a potentiometer (adjustable resistor) to perhaps to tune this thingie a little. The problem seems to be that when you have this resistor "hooked up" to the Intake Temp sensor and you plug a OBD scan tool in to monitor the engine, the Intake Temp reading is off the scale because the resistor these jokers use don't match the maximum expected value of the sensor there intended to replace. So the ECM allows these shenanigans to go on for a short period of time (possibly only setting a soft code or no code at all), then it gives up and sets a hard code; which used to be erasable by just pulling the battery cable for up to 15mins, but newer ECU's now have the same flash memory your digital camera's and such do: power or no power, those codes are in there. The only way to get them out is to have a scan tool of some sort that's capable of resetting the computers non-volatile memory.
There are cool things you can do to your jeeps electronic engine management systems without degrading the systems integrity or loosing some of its functionality.  Even something as simple as an upgraded electronic fuel pump and higher flow fuel injectors can give your current engine management system the ability to cope with internal engine mods or extensive bolt-on's like header/exhaust, low restriction intake system, upgraded ignition system ect.

I saw someone mention something about an adjustable MAP sensor. Where is this available and what did they say it would do for you?

[jwrape]

If you want to fool the computer in thinking your engine is getting cooler air into the intake then just relocate the AIS from the intake manifold to the air box like I did.  You only have to remove the AIS from the intake and cork the hole with a bolt that fits and then drill a new hole in the air box, screw the AIS into the air box and extend the wires on the plug to reach the new location and you will do the exact same thing and have no side affects.
Matter of fact my Wrangler was running really rich until I did this and now it runs perfect. Not rich at all anymore. Didn't really see a performance gain though.

From what I have read the little 2.5L run rich from the factory anyways so this is a good mod anyways.

Also most other manufactures such as Ford and GM etc.. usually mount the AIS in the air box or the intake tube anyways. Why Chrysler puts it in the HOT intake manifold is beyond me. :roll:

AIS=Air Intake Sensor

[Jeffy]

Have any pictures?  I know we had that thread about the whole air sensor a while back and I threw up some picts of the stock sensor.

[hopp]

Why whould that cure running rich? Colder denser air would require more fuel--not less.

The 2.5L manifold isn't heated with coolant, in the 4th runner you're looking at an air stream traveling somewhere around at least 22mph at partial throttle** so I'm not sure that heat soak would matter much. The ECU is calibrated for the AIS in the intake port position.

Perhaps you were running too lean prior to the relocation? Or did you clean the sensor when you moved it?


**cfm of runner/width of runner/height of runner = depth of air column  
depth of air column is the distance air travels in a minute or its velocity in feet per minute. For example, a conservative conservative airflow figure of 30cfm would repersent airflow through a single runner at a slower engine speed. Doing the math (My #4 runner is 1.25" wide and 1.75" tall at that point roughly .01508 ft^2) 30/.01508 = 1989 feet per minute of air column or roughly 22mph in velocity.

[TJZep]

I have one of these on my jeep   Yes, all it is is a cap that tricks your ecm into thinking you air charge is cooler.  I know, i know.  I paid 15$ for it.  As for if it works, i really dunno.  I made the mistake of installing it at the same time as i put my 4.0 tb and intake on, so i don't know what made what difference.  The good thing is that i didnt have to cut any wires(it uses those plastic clips that when you close them they pierce the wire and make the connection)  and it did not cause a check engine light to come on.  ill probably remove it and get a jet chip anyways, as i cant help buying every mod i see.  :)