Topic: Corner Guards

[Jeffy]

Long, short, stretch, comp cut are just a few of the different ones out there.  Then there are options like flares no flares, stock or LED's.  Then there are 3/16 and 1/4" as well as some saying they are 4/16's.  Didn't they learn to reduce your fractions?  

I'm not sure I really need full length guards as I'm not crawling that much at all anymore.  Might be OK to save some weight and go with the short ones.  The other problem I see that there seem to be two options stock lights or 3" rounds.  Not everyone uses 3" rounds.  I prefer my 2x6's and barely got them to hide the cut out for the pigtail and the screw mounts on the stock lights.  I've also been thinking about going with two or three 2" lights instead and that would be a problem.  Is there anyone who sells blanks?  That's the other reason I don't want to use full-length as their blanks aren't even cut for the wheel wells.  Will a shop do a custom set that aren't drilled for lights?  I'm going to also speculate that if I want to use the Trek tire rack, I'll need guards that aren't cut for the hinges as the rack has a bracket that goes under the stock hinges.  Think I should stick with Trek all around since they are sort of designed to compliment each other?  I don't really want to go with 3" round taillights.  If anything, I'd rather put the lights into the bumper so I don't have to worry about covering the lights on the rack.

[neale_rs]

I like my Warn rocker guards.  They have taken some good hits and have not gotten dented.  With no side tube, they are less likely to bend the side of the Jeep inward at the top of the guard.  The lack of side tube and the 3/16 metal make them not too heavy.  Another alternative to save weight might be to go with aluminum.

I would stay away from any lights in the bumper since they will get broken as soon as the bumper does it's job.

[FourbangerYJ]

The title of this thread should be Corner guards not rocker guards. Thou you do need some new rocker guards

I have the shorty ones from PSC. I like them. I got them with the 4 inch round lite. You could get the standard tail light then cut your 2x6 in there. Most are 3/16 any thing more is a waste!
The only blanks I know of are from Genright. But they are BLANK no cut outs of any kind and they are the long full lengh ones.
You could check with Treks,PSC or GR to see if you can get some without the hinges cut, or tail lights, or powdercoat. If not you could get some 3/16 and cut it to to fit the hinge cutouts. Find a shop or someone to burn them in.

If you want I can make you a rear bumper. We can put in whatever lights you like. I kinda like the idea of having smaller 2 inch lights. That would be a unique look. 2 for brakes one for turn. Or all for brakes and turn. Could also put in some back up lights. I could also put in a 2 inch reciever like what I have. Mounting can be done a number of ways. I think the best for yours would be drilling and tapping the back side where it would bolt to the crossmember. It would be invisible on the outside.

[oldjeep]

Sniperfab would do blanks the last time I checked

[aw12345]

Savy got shiny aluminum blanls for a YJ for less green than Gen Right. Genright seems to think they cast gold in anything they make

[Jesse-James]

I've talked to Poison Spyder and TNT (Treks) and they both will. I was looking into YJ corners with no tail light cutout, TJ openings and TJ filler cutout. Both said no problem.

[Jeffy]

I've talked to Poison Spyder and TNT (Treks) and they both will. I was looking into YJ corners with no tail light cutout, TJ openings and TJ filler cutout. Both said no problem.

Ah, cool.  I figured some of the smaller shops would be able to do it if they do everything in house.  I actually like the rear gas filler as I can pump gas from either side with no problems.  That would solve my problem with the taillight issue nicely.  I wonder how it would look with only taillights in the bumper though.

If you want I can make you a rear bumper. We can put in whatever lights you like. I kinda like the idea of having smaller 2 inch lights. That would be a unique look. 2 for brakes one for turn. Or all for brakes and turn. Could also put in some back up lights. I could also put in a 2 inch reciever like what I have. Mounting can be done a number of ways. I think the best for yours would be drilling and tapping the back side where it would bolt to the crossmember. It would be invisible on the outside.

Yeah, I think I'll probably have the bumper drilled and tapped so it sits flush with the crossmember.  That's actually what I planned on since there are very few bumpers out there that sit close to the body.  I think I'll have to play around with PS and see what the rear would look like.

I would stay away from any lights in the bumper since they will get broken as soon as the bumper does it's job.

Well, if they are grommet type of lights they will either get pushed in or fall out before breaking.  I like the grommet type since they look really clean and hide how they are mounted.  My taillights are like that.  I can push them into the wheelwell with a bit of force.  I'm still not sure if I'll do that though.  The only reason for that would be to offset the spare to the side and allow for a cooler or 3 gas cans.  This would normally block the stock light location.

[st.chevrolet]

Have you looked at the Savvy aluminum housing LED taillights? Very Nice

[Jesse-James]

Yeah, I think I'll probably have the bumper drilled and tapped so it sits flush with the crossmember.  That's actually what I planned on since there are very few bumpers out there that sit close to the body. 

That's how I did mine....

[Jeffy]

Have you looked at the Savvy aluminum housing LED taillights? Very Nice

Yeah, but I like my LEDs as they are very bright and people notice them.

[aka-justin]

I've been looking to do the rear LED tail light conversion only because my lights are dim when inline towing.  I know the LED's don't need as much voltage to be super bright, so it should resolve that issue.  As soon as I find some cheapr, I'm there    Ovals or Rounds

[neale_rs]

Yeah, I think I'll probably have the bumper drilled and tapped so it sits flush with the crossmember.

Do you think drill and tap is strong enough for recovery?  It might be better to first build the plate that will go next to the crossmember with nuts welded on,  and then build the enclosed bumper on to that.  Maybe the drill and tap is good enough...

[sharpxmen]

Do you think drill and tap is strong enough for recovery?  It might be better to first build the plate that will go next to the crossmember with nuts welded on,  and then build the enclosed bumper on to that.  Maybe the drill and tap is good enough...

x2
you're probably right, drill and tap wouldn't be strong enough (depends on how thick the profile is also and what size bolts) but i would be more concerned about the crossmember - i've seen bent ones as well as bolts making it thru the holes when towing - best to have the vertical bolts in as well (the ones that go in the frame rails from underneath) and maybe tie-ins to the frame rails if possible.

[neale_rs]

I recommend the frame tie ins.  I had some welded in recently and took out the vertical bolts because my springs (with boomerang shackles) were hitting the bolt heads.  You could put in a horizontal bolt in the triangle area formed by the shackle pushed all the way back and the crossmember.

[Jeffy]

Do you think drill and tap is strong enough for recovery?  It might be better to first build the plate that will go next to the crossmember with nuts welded on,  and then build the enclosed bumper on to that.  Maybe the drill and tap is good enough...

The stock crossmsmber is pretty thin to begin with so it's not going to be any weaker then what's already there.  You can pull off the stock bumper locations as long as your careful.  Also, keep in mind that I would utilize the bottom frame bolt for the bumper so it would be tied to the frame.  The location was originally designed for use with a trailer hitch.