Topic: Front Detroit or Spool?

[neale_rs]

Sounds like the front ARB has a lot of support.  It wouldn't be much more expensive for me since I already have the compressor.

Thanks a lot for all the comments and ideas.

[Jeffy]

Sounds like the front ARB has a lot of support.  It wouldn't be much more expensive for me since I already have the compressor.

Thanks a lot for all the comments and ideas.

The ARB is about as old as the Detroit.  It's pretty bulletproof.

[aw12345]

Especially the later version of the arb is a very strong unit. Nothing wrong with an ox locker either. I just like the easy on and off of the arb, I run open till I need a bit extra traction flip the switches and move on till I am past the obstacle flip them off and cruise on

[jfrabat]

Especially the later version of the arb is a very strong unit. Nothing wrong with an ox locker either. I just like the easy on and off of the arb, I run open till I need a bit extra traction flip the switches and move on till I am past the obstacle flip them off and cruise on

X2 on the use of ARB's and opinion on the Ox...

[FourbangerYJ]

It's probably kind of like with my rear ARB.  If I ran the same section of trail with it off and then with it on, I might notice some difference.  But with it on all the time I don't know if the steering would have been any different with it off.  Personally I don't notice any difference in steering with it locked in the rear.  Well, just the sliding downhill on off camber sections when too much gas is applied.

I found a kit that includes 4340 30 spline front shafts and an ARB that is looking pretty good!

Is the Detroit Locker available for 30 spline shafts for the D30?  Are the 30 spline shafts really needed?  They seem to cost the same as the 27 spline...

From the tiny bit of searching I did it seems the 30 spline D30 locker choice is the ARB. I did not see any Detroits in 30 spline.
The 30 spline would be nice. Keep in mind it's only the inners that are 30 spline. The stubs are still 27 spline.
Also upgrade the U joints. The Spicer stuff is nice but a premium joint is going to  take a lot more abuse that the Spicer. Also look at the RCV shafts. That would be a nice set up. They have the super 30 spline and reg. 27 spline. Same price for each kit. Then you don't have to worry about breaking a U joint 
https://www.rcvperformance.com/store/catalog/index.php?cPath=59&osCsid=f1ecbf9082e48e846ad32abca27351bd

[neale_rs]

That would be a nice set of axles.  I had seen those before in a magazine but didn't recall who sold them.  Thanks


Looking around, I found a kit to make the outers 30 spline as well

http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?jeep-sid=353&plID=95&partID=56109

[Jeffy]

That's a whole lot of money to make a D30 into a D44 though.  $500 for just the stubs and bearings?  Then $985.00 for those shafts and you still haven't bought a ARB for it.  Punch out while you still can and go with a Dana 44 or Dana 60.

[FourbangerYJ]

That would be a nice set of axles.  I had seen those before in a magazine but didn't recall who sold them.  Thanks


Looking around, I found a kit to make the outers 30 spline as well

http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?jeep-sid=353&plID=95&partID=56109

Not sure it's worth that kind of money to upgrade. Given the choice I would do the RCV's. It's the U joints that will fail a large % of the time. When that happens it can mess up the yokes on a shaft or both shafts. If you look at buying a set of premium joints you are adding another $300-500 to a set of upgraded shafts. Seems to me the RCV shafts would give you the most bang for the buck.

[neale_rs]

I agree, the $985 axles are actually a good deal, they cost about the same as a set of $600 u-joint shafts plus say some Yukon Super Joints for about $370.  Or compare it with $600 shafts and around $500 for some CTM u-joints.  Plus they have a great warranty. I wouldn't buy the 30 spline stub shaft kit, not worth it for what I do.

A Dana 44 would be nice but it is more money, having to buy it, regear it, set up the steering, upgrade at least the u-joints, etc.

[aw12345]

The 27 spline superior front shaft have survived a shit load of abuse so far. so truth be told for most any wheeling with 33's or 35's they would be just fine, unless you stick a v8 in front of it, then it's dana 60 or spidertrax time

[sharpxmen]

That's a whole lot of money to make a D30 into a D44 though.  $500 for just the stubs and bearings?  Then $985.00 for those shafts and you still haven't bought a ARB for it.  Punch out while you still can and go with a Dana 44 or Dana 60.

i bought 30 spline cromoly shafts for D30 by Alloy USA for $300 (brand new off ebay) + a 30 spline Eaton E-locker for $600 (and i think the shipping was another $50 or so) - the new Eaton e-locker works just like the ARB or OX but using a solenoid instead.


true that the outer stubs are still small but i don't think i've seen any reports on those braking, might be b/c it is tightened with the nut so the shear forces or the twisting forces are reduces on that portion of the stub - i would guess it will fail at the u-joint before braking in the hub.

[chrisfranklin]

I've read conflicting information: that it is hard to turn with a front locker, that it's really not so bad, etc.  So, assuming off-road use only, 4 Low engaged, and no street use: What would allow easier steering off road, a front Detroit Locker or a front spool (or locked ARB for instance)?

Thanks

4-Low with an Aussie in D30 and it'll fight you a little bit when you're turning on loose surfaces.  But I wouldn't call it hard to turn.  It's also quiet in 2wd/4wd.   

I recall a JP magazine editor seeming to favor a setup with an autolocker in the front(Detroit) and driver-controlled locker in the rear (ARB, Ox).   

[FourbangerYJ]

The 27 spline superior front shaft have survived a My Little Pony load of abuse so far. so truth be told for most any wheeling with 33's or 35's they would be just fine, unless you stick a v8 in front of it, then it's dana 60 or spidertrax time

Mine held up just fine with Warn shafts and some H20 proof joints from J.E. Reel. I would agree that you don't need to go to a bigger axle D44 etc unless you need lower gears than 4.88's. A D30 with good shafts and joints will last a very long time.
Not sure on the 30 spline VS 27 spline. If your replacing both the shafts and carrier then why not. Seems as if the price is the same either way. If you already have a locker or any other upgrades then I don't see it being worth the money.

[Jeffy]

I agree, the $985 axles are actually a good deal, they cost about the same as a set of $600 u-joint shafts plus say some Yukon Super Joints for about $370.  Or compare it with $600 shafts and around $500 for some CTM u-joints.  Plus they have a great warranty. I wouldn't buy the 30 spline stub shaft kit, not worth it for what I do.

A Dana 44 would be nice but it is more money, having to buy it, regear it, set up the steering, upgrade at least the u-joints, etc.

If you're going to be putting an ARB in there then all your doing is paying for the price of the gears as labor would be one fee.  For the steering you can use the regular inverted L steering.  No additional cost.  U-joints are already going to be 297x that can be upgraded to 5-760X.

What I'm saying is $1500 would go pretty far on a D44 you salvage yourself.  Then you'd have the ability to do hi-steer as well as have lower gears.  You can buy a set of SJ 44's for $1500 and it comes with a truck.  Same goes for a '78/'79 Ford F250 or F350.  Then sell off the stuff you don't want.

[neale_rs]

The idea of buying a whole vehicle with matching axles and then part it out might come out pretty cheap overall.  I know a guy who did this to get a full width Ford HPD44 front and a 9" rear under his TJ.