Topic: 92' clutch change

[Complete Loser]

Mornin fellers.
This is probably an easy one. I just wanted to check before i put out the cash. As you may suspect by now, god only knows what year everything is in my Jeep (its supposed to be a 92). So this has concerned me when picking out a new clutch assembly.
In quadratec, it seems that when talking clutch assembly, the 93' stands alone.

My question is, what is the difference between the 93 and say 91-92' and 94 clutch assemblies incase i order one and my Jeep turns out to be of a different year

-92' Quadratec doesnt seem to have an AMS clutch assembly for 92' 2.5. ?
Would either of these work?
93' http://www.quadratec.com/products/52002_11.htm
94' http://www.quadratec.com/products/52002_13.htm



And the last question, how to tell if I have an external slave cylinder, thus necessitating this assembly http://www.quadratec.com/products/52002_206.htm
 

Sorry. lol
And thanks in advance.

[Jeffy]

This is the Centerforce you'd want:

• http://www.quadratec.com/products/52002_204.htm
• http://www.quadratec.com/products/52002_404.htm
• http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Centerforce/Make/JEEP/Year/1992/Model/WRANGLER/Engine-Size/2-5L-150/?keyword=centerforce
• http://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Pac-01-033-Clutch-Kit/dp/B000CNJY7U/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&carId=001
• http://www.amazon.com/Centerforce-DF201614-Friction-Clutch-Pressure/dp/B000CIORXQ/ref=au_pf_ss_2?ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&carId=001
• http://www.amazon.com/Centerforce-DF201614-Friction-Clutch-Pressure/dp/B000CIORXQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1282674003&sr=8-1
• http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-061-6168-New-Clutch/dp/B000CAVSSG/ref=au_pf_ss_4?ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&carId=001
• http://www.amazon.com/Luk-01-033-New-Clutch-Set/dp/B000CI8WS2/ref=au_pf_ss_5?ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&carId=001

1987-1992 should all be the same.

1993 is a year all by itself usually, at least for the slave.
1994-2002 should be the same as well.
1987-1992 are the same internal slave.
1994-2002 are all external slaves.

[Complete Loser]

Thanks Jeffy 

[Jeffy]

Thanks Jeffy 

I think the Amazon prices were significantly better.

[Complete Loser]

That aint no kiddin. Never thought to use them. 

[Jeffy]

They have free shipping as well.  I've used them for a few Jeep parts.

[Complete Loser]

Just incase the problem might be something else. Im gonna go ahead and mention the symptoms.
On occasion (not very often) she wont let me shift out of first or second gear when coming to a stoplight for instance. I can yank and yank on the stick, and she wont go. I just let out on the clutch, and reapply, and it works fine.
This has happened 3 times.

And just had the opposite happen the other day. Had the clutch in, and couldnt get into reverse. Only grinding. Released, and reapplied the clutch, and all was find.
This has happened once.

The fluid is full. I have bled as best i could. Didnt get any air each time i bled. And the pedal never changed.
The pedal must always be pressed to the floor for effective operation (i mean, the back of the pedal is literally touching the metal floor board). Been that way since ive had her.

thoughts?

[Dylan]

From what you describe, my thoughts are a worn throw out bearing, worn or leaking master/slave, worn/warped pressure plate springs, or the pressure plate mount bolts are loose.  If pumping the clutch pedal fixes the problem, then the master and slave would be the most likely culprit.

[Bounty Hunter]

Sounds like it could be bad synchronizers requiring the double-clutch to change gears.

I'd get an oem LUK brand clutch from www.dialaclutch.com , the 4banger doesn't need a Centerforce.

[Jeffy]

Sounds like it could be bad synchronizers requiring the double-clutch to change gears.

I'd get an oem LUK brand clutch from www.dialaclutch.com , the 4banger doesn't need a Centerforce.

Funny thing about the Centerforce is that most of the things that make the Centerforce special has to do with the weights.  Only problem is that the bell housing doesn't allow them to use the weights.

[Complete Loser]

Ya. Thats why i asked Bounty. I was hoping it wasnt the synchos'.  :(

[Dylan]

Sounds like it could be bad synchronizers requiring the double-clutch to change gears.

Bad synchros would make it difficult to get into gear while moving, not out of gear.  Additionally, it wouldn't explain why he had to let the clutch out and reapply to get it into reverse.

[Jeffy]

If you get grinding in all the gears then it's usually a sign that the clutch or hydraulics are going bad.  If it' just one gear, usually 2nd starts going bad first, then it's probably syncros.

Reverse does have an interlock so you can't shift into it from 5th and sometimes from even 3rd.  You're supposed to shift into 1st then R to disable the interlock.

You can drive without syncros or a clutch for that matter but it takes finesse.

[dustjunkie]

I've seen syncro's so bad that they were literally stuck to the gear and wouldn't allow you to get it out of gear.  They wore so bad that they got cocked in there sideways.  You said in second or first pulling up to a stop sign.....Do you down shift to slow down?  That the worse thing you could do to a manual transmission. 

I had one AX-15 get so bad that I had to turn the engine off to get the shifter to budge, out of gear, and the same going into first, turn it off, get into gear with clutch in and start it. 

[neale_rs]

When I bought my YJ it was hard to shift in and out of gears.  I had the AX5 rebuilt and the mechanic put in regular oil.  It worked well for the most part but would still once in a while be hard to shift in or out of first.  That problem was solved by using the right oil (I used Penzoil Synchromesh, and MT90 also works).  This made me wonder if maybe the rebuild was a waste of money.  I would recommend making sure you have the right oil in there first and then decide what else needs to be done.