Topic: Swapping out Distributors

[taylorcraftbc65]

 OK guys, I spent a LOOONG time trying many different  ways to describe what I have already done to my motor, and what I still would like to do to finish it's transformation, and there is NOTHING even close in the archives, so here goes.
 I know that most of you will think that I am a nut job for doing this, but back in 2000, I got tired of paying to have my 1990 YJ towed to a dealer when it would not hot start half the time, and have them not be able to find the problem, and I ripped the entire engine management system off the engine, replacing it with a CJ7 intake and a two barrel carb, and a 1984 distributor that used the Ford ignition control box. The result? I was NEVER stranded again.
 My question is this.  I would like to even remove the Ford ignition control box, and go to points typ distributor. I heard back in 2000, when I still lived in Phoenix that there WAS a distributor that WOULD work, but I could not get one at the time, and I have forgotten WHICH distributor it was. We DO NOT have Smog checks out here in the most sparcely populated County in the State of Texas, so we pretty much do what we want with our vehicles. Does anyone know which distributor, I think that it might have been from a very early Pinto, will drop into the 2.5 block, and work?   THANKS  Brie

[sharpxmen]

maybe (and take that with a lot of room for error) from an '85 Cherokee 2.5L - the distributor would be electronic, so you'll also need the ignition control module - can't tell you for sure if it works or not, I don't know if the ECM on it has any input on the timing (if it controls it or not), but since it does have a vacuum advance on the distributor I would think it's standalone. you could run to a parts store with yours in hand and compare them and also do some research to see if the timing is solely based on distributor and ignition control module and not controlled by the ECM.

top one in here is cheaper but it doesn't come with cap and rotor (A-1 CARDONE Part # 304491) http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1179558,parttype,7108

cap and rotor http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1179558,parttype,7054

and the ICM - AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 6H1012  http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1179558,parttype,7172
pinout http://airtexenginemanagement.com/pdf/pin_outs/6H1012.pdf

ignition coil http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1179558,parttype,7060

if they are the same mechanically (the pinion/gear, length/depth of pinion and oil pump drive) you might be able to use it but you'll need to make your own connections (and making sure is standalone like i mentioned on top of the post).

[Jeffy]

She wants to rid herself from electronics not add them.  I believe 1984-1986 from a CJ-7 would be points.  Basically anything from a 1983-1986 CJ will be your basic carb'ed engine with little no no electronics.

I wouldn't recommend a pinto engine though.  The 2.3L's were OK for flat-fenders but the YJ is a bit heavier.  A Pontiac 150cid Iron Duke would be an option also.  You can bild them to really high HP if you want or keep them at low HP and they will run forever.  It is the predecessor to the AMC2.5L in the CJ and later YJ, MJ, XJ, etc...  You would nee a new transmission though.  But like I said, revert it back to '84-86 and you'll have what you want.

[sharpxmen]

She wants to rid herself from electronics not add them.  I believe 1984-1986 from a CJ-7 would be points.  Basically anything from a 1983-1986 CJ will be your basic carb'ed engine with little no no electronics.

I wouldn't recommend a pinto engine though.  The 2.3L's were OK for flat-fenders but the YJ is a bit heavier.  A Pontiac 150cid Iron Duke would be an option also.  You can bild them to really high HP if you want or keep them at low HP and they will run forever.  It is the predecessor to the AMC2.5L in the CJ and later YJ, MJ, XJ, etc...  You would nee a new transmission though.  But like I said, revert it back to '84-86 and you'll have what you want.

well i thought she wants to have spark.

[taylorcraftbc65]

 Yes, she does want spark, she already has spark, it just is dependant on the Ford ignition control module on the inner fenderwell.  It works OK, I would just like to make it to where if it gives me any problems, it will soft fail because it uses points to switch the coil on, rather than a gazillion transistors etched into a silicon chip.  The points I can visually inspect, the silicon chip I need a Ouijiboard for after the electronics hard fail, usually with no warning, in the middle of nowhere.  
 Oh yes, I don't want to use a different engine, the 2.5 is OK, I just want to add a points switched distributor to go along with the carb that the engine already has.  

[chardrc]

i wouldn't go to a points distributor.. on our cj's with the go-devil 4banger one of the only things we went from mechanical to electrical control was to get rid of the points distributor.. just was too troublesome and wasn't reliable enough for us... but to each there own...

[sharpxmen]

I don't know of a points dist that would be a direct fit for your engine, one thing you can do is to get a 4 cyl one with points and centrifugal and vacuum advance, take it apart, adapt the housing (cut, turn, weld or press fit an adapter to it) and then deal with the shaft, gear and oil pump drive (maybe make a custom shaft or cut and make an adapter sleeve between the 2) - it can be done but there's more work involved compared to just wiring for a direct fit. Pricess Auto has oilite bronze bearings in several common sizes you could use for the shaft in case you take this route, an adapter can be made out of round aluminum stock and then press fit bearings for the shaft on it. I would look for a distributor for an engine that has close specs to yours (redline, CR and displacement at least).

[taylorcraftbc65]

 Thanks for the info, I was afraid that I was going to go that route. The reason that I didn't get the points distributor that I saw at the Checkers Auto in Goodyear, Arizonna back in 2000 was that the drive gear was identical, the housing would drop right in, the direction of rotation wsa correct, BUT the shaft of the housing was
about 3/32 shorter than the distributor that was in the Jeep. That would cause the distributor drive gear to ride that same 3/32 higher on the drive gear on the camshaft, and THAT might cause wear problems on the bronze drive gear, poaaibly causing it to skip a tooth, with very bad results.
 They guy at the counter thought that I was being a bit extreeme, but I just didn't want to take the chance. Had the housing shaft been 3/32 too long, I just would have shimmed it, but such was not the case.  Brie

[sharpxmen]

Thanks for the info, I was afraid that I was going to go that route. The reason that I didn't get the points distributor that I saw at the Checkers Auto in Goodyear, Arizonna back in 2000 was that the drive gear was identical, the housing would drop right in, the direction of rotation wsa correct, BUT the shaft of the housing was
about 3/32 shorter than the distributor that was in the Jeep. That would cause the distributor drive gear to ride that same 3/32 higher on the drive gear on the camshaft, and THAT might cause wear problems on the bronze drive gear, poaaibly causing it to skip a tooth, with very bad results.
 They guy at the counter thought that I was being a bit extreeme, but I just didn't want to take the chance. Had the housing shaft been 3/32 too long, I just would have shimmed it, but such was not the case.  Brie

that could be taken care of easily on a lathe, take off 3/32 off the shoulder wouldn't be that much of a problem. do you don't know what vehicle was that one from?

[taylorcraftbc65]

 No, I wish that I did. I didn't have a lathe then, but now I have a lathe and milling machine both.  What I COULD do, is use the factory housing, and make my own "guts" to go inside of it to give it points. I don't have to rebuild the wheel, I could the backing plate from almost any fourcylinder engine that has the correct rotation. Then I make it to where the plate will operate correctly in the Jeep housing.  Then I get a shaft with the correct oil pump drive machined into it, locate the drive gear, install and ream the bronze bushings, and assemble the points and condenser. 

[sharpxmen]

No, I wish that I did. I didn't have a lathe then, but now I have a lathe and milling machine both.  What I COULD do, is use the factory housing, and make my own "guts" to go inside of it to give it points. I don't have to rebuild the wheel, I could the backing plate from almost any fourcylinder engine that has the correct rotation. Then I make it to where the plate will operate correctly in the Jeep housing.  Then I get a shaft with the correct oil pump drive machined into it, locate the drive gear, install and ream the bronze bushings, and assemble the points and condenser. 

yeah that sounds about right. I did this once for a 6 cylinder the only difference from what you describe was to keep the upper part of the distributor and just make an adapter on the lower part that was sliding over and locked with a set screw. I cut the shaft off the original dist and made a close fit sleeve that was going over the 2 shafts and tack welded the sleeve on them (gear removed of course). only problem was that it had to be tacked with the upper part assembled so you couldn't take it apart no more but i didn't care about that at the time (although thinking back i should have just drilled one end and turned the other so they are centered and aligned and tack weld in a chamfer). It could be done more elegantly if you have enough length on the new shaft to cut and fit for depth though. Only problem i see with keeping the old housing is adapting the vacuum advance (if the new housing has a different diameter). also the height and diameter of the rotor might be an issue since you might have to use the upper part of the shaft off the new one (unless you want to make the whole thing custom including the mounting of the centrifugal springs and weights).

good luck, if you find anything that works make sure to post an update just for our future reference.

[taylorcraftbc65]

 I will do just that, but it will be after the holidays.  The very best of the season to all of you.  Brie