Author Topic: Advice needed  (Read 3543 times)

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Offline Jeffy

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #15 on: January 14, 2011, 12:34:30 PM »
Also, a member of this forum did the Rubicon Trail in a YJ on 31s and a very small lift.  Properly driven, Jeeps with relatively mild modifications can do amazing things.
Chris did.  Last time I was there we had a TJ on 31's (cooper AT's?) as well as a YJ on 31's (BFG MT).  The rest were on 33's (BFG MT's).  Actually one XJ was on 32 Super Swampers.
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4BangerTJ

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #16 on: January 15, 2011, 02:36:46 PM »
Well let me ask you guys this. If I wanted to go 35s and swap axles do I need to swap the whole housings or just the axle shafts in the housings? Also are there is cars that you can take a dana 44 off that wll directl bolt up to my TJ or would I have to do fab work on any that I use?

Offline Jeffy

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #17 on: January 15, 2011, 03:13:58 PM »
Well let me ask you guys this. If I wanted to go 35s and swap axles do I need to swap the whole housings or just the axle shafts in the housings? Also are there is cars that you can take a dana 44 off that wll directl bolt up to my TJ or would I have to do fab work on any that I use?
Bare minimum would be to swap the rear axle (the whole axle, housing, etc..).  It won't be optimal with gearing but the front axle will limit you to 4.88:1.  You really want to be at 5.38:1, which you could get if you swap the front axle (everything).  The only thing that will be a direct bolt on would be from a Rubicon.  Everything else requires welding.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline jfrabat

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #18 on: January 17, 2011, 03:11:06 PM »
Bare minimum would be to swap the rear axle (the whole axle, housing, etc..).  It won't be optimal with gearing but the front axle will limit you to 4.88:1.  You really want to be at 5.38:1, which you could get if you swap the front axle (everything).  The only thing that will be a direct bolt on would be from a Rubicon.  Everything else requires welding.

But anyone with some welding knowledge can do this...  It's not easy, but it's not rocket science.
'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Superwinch EPi9.0, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-5.13, 165A alt., 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Hydroboost

4BangerTJ

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #19 on: January 17, 2011, 04:49:09 PM »
I think for now ill just stick to the 33s. Now I just need to decide which lift or combo lift I wanna go with. What are the pros and cons of doing a full suspension lift vs a small suspension and body lift combo vs a spacer and body lift combo?

Offline FourbangerYJ

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #20 on: January 17, 2011, 05:23:44 PM »
I think for now ill just stick to the 33s. Now I just need to decide which lift or combo lift I wanna go with. What are the pros and cons of doing a full suspension lift vs a small suspension and body lift combo vs a spacer and body lift combo?

The kits with new arms, springs,shocks are gonna ride,flex, work better than the spacer - body lift. You need 3.5-4 inches to clear the 33's. The bigger the springs get you need the longer arms to correct the geometry. Buying the whole package will save some headache later down the road. Do it right the first time.
Scott~

Using tools you have not used in a while is like shaking hands with old friends. :nod:

4BangerTJ

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #21 on: January 18, 2011, 05:16:41 AM »
This is my issue with that. I have asked several people about lifts and everyone I ask is telling me that if I lift any more than 3" I will have to worry about wobbles and sye and drivshafts etc. I don't wanna get into all that for just some 33s right now. I would rather have to tackle that all later when I have to in order to clear 35s or more. That's why I was asking cause I was considering a 3" and a 1" bod lift and just don't know enough to know if they still ride well.

Offline Bounty Hunter

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #22 on: January 18, 2011, 06:37:20 AM »
This is my issue with that. I have asked several people about lifts and everyone I ask is telling me that if I lift any more than 3" I will have to worry about wobbles and sye and drivshafts etc.
Most or all 4" kits will come with a transfer case lowering kit to keep you from needing a SYE or any driveshaft modifications.  The Rough Country 4" kit is a decent kit on a budget.  Get a good alignment after the lift and the chances of any wobbles are minimal.

There are a few jeepers out there who slam a transfer case drop, saying it goes against the purpose of lifting a jeep by lowering the belly skid and decreasing the breakover angle.  I don't think lowering the belly skid 1" is that bad after gaining 4" from the lift and around 3" from the increase in tire height.

Offline jfrabat

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #23 on: January 18, 2011, 08:17:12 AM »
There are a few jeepers out there who slam a transfer case drop, saying it goes against the purpose of lifting a jeep by lowering the belly skid and decreasing the breakover angle.  I don't think lowering the belly skid 1" is that bad after gaining 4" from the lift and around 3" from the increase in tire height.

That's a good point; the only time my belly skid has hit has been in DEEEEEEEP mud...  and 1" of difference would not have made any difference at all.
'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Superwinch EPi9.0, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-5.13, 165A alt., 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Hydroboost

DodgeMudder

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #24 on: January 18, 2011, 10:29:53 AM »
That's a good point; the only time my belly skid has hit has been in DEEEEEEEP mud...  and 1" of difference would not have made any difference at all.

I'm the other side of this coin, I hate the t-case drops, I bent my stock skid up from hits so bad I had to unbolt it and beat it back flat a couple time just to drive home.  I have since gone to a custom trans mount cross member set-up that is only 1" below the frame and it has made contact on the rocks and rough trails, I hit it hard enough last time out to stop my forward momentum and had to back up and make a second run at an angle to clear the bank, I plan remake it to get a skid thats completely flat under my YJ in the spring.  I don't like body lifts but see the bennefit of running one with a MM lift to keep from dropping the skid plate.

4BangerTJ

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #25 on: January 18, 2011, 01:24:25 PM »
Ok thanks guys for the info. I'm gonna do some looking into some better kits than the rough country. I hd one of there kits on my truck and it was pretty good quality but I have hard lot of negatives about it on jeeps. I am leaning toward an re or ome or mabe teraflex 3 o 3.5" and a 1" body lift. Just gotta find the right deal and jump on it I guess. Thanks for the info guys.

Offline stan98tj

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #26 on: January 19, 2011, 08:35:07 PM »
Ok thanks guys for the info. I'm gonna do some looking into some better kits than the rough country. I hd one of there kits on my truck and it was pretty good quality but I have hard lot of negatives about it on jeeps. I am leaning toward an re or ome or mabe teraflex 3 o 3.5" and a 1" body lift. Just gotta find the right deal and jump on it I guess. Thanks for the info guys.
RC is great if you have a budget to keep. If $$ wasnt limited i would have dropped a decent amount of cash on an Old Man Emu set-up/kit. There are real in-depth reviews of the RC kits available on jeepforum and other forums. The ride is a bit stiff but i def have been in stiffer jeeps running other kits. You get a full kit (springs and shocks and other equipment) for a very good price. Full kit is better than just running body spacers in my opinion. Of course, if you have the cash to spend, you can go with rubicon express, or the best (in my opinion) OME.
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Offline jagular7

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #27 on: January 19, 2011, 08:41:54 PM »
KISS

99 TJ.

Run a combination of simple low lifts.
Simple 2" lift with either springs or spacers. 1.25" body lift. Combo provides enough room for 35's on my 97 TJ. I'm also using Rubi LJ coils in addition to the spacers. Some say its another 1" lift, but been wheeling for 6 yrs this way. Most spacer lifts include shocks and the rear track bar riser bracket. My lift consists of the ACOS up front to match the rear lift. Rear is the spacer lift. Tera control arms and RE track bars. I use shocks for 6" lift. To maintain my shocks, I have to run longer bump stops and risers to keep the shocks from bottoming out. I use YJ front brake lines along with JKS quick disconnects for the front sway bar. I do have lots of axle walk but I know that. I still have the stock trans skid plate with the 1" motor mount lift, use the stock rear ds, and have the stock rear brake line.

If you want to gain articulation, you'll need more mods, simple but additional. Motor mounts, adjustable/articulating control arms and track bars, front sway bar disconnect/swap, longer front brake lines, and longer bump stops/bump stop risers.
Maintain minimal driveline vibes with a 1" motor mount lift. Consider this, when you lower the trans case skid, you are lowering the back end mount of the driveline, this in turn angles the driveline to help minimize the driveline vibes. Why not lift the front mount 1" higher to get similar tilt and results?
Adding articulating control arms and track bars are necessary as the stamped steel stock components can't handle the forces when articulating with the larger tires and most of the time, the stock rubber bushings won't last. If you can't afford all at once, you can take steps for the control arms and track bars. Add an adjustable track bar in the front, lower front control arm to adjust the front geometry, the upper rear control arm to adjust the pinion angle. In time, replace the lower rear and upper front control arms, and lastly, the rear track bar. You need to keep an eye on the stock components for stress fractures, otherwise, they break. The riser bracket for the rear track bar is necessary to realign the axle under the frame. The front track bar (stock) can be relocated with a bracket, or a hole can be drilled in the axle bracket. Installing an adjustable/articulating track bars is best.
When you start to articulate, depending on the shock length, you will need to replace the stock front brake lines. On the TJ, they will come up short, especially with the front sway bar disconnected. YJ brake lines work well, but that depends on the shock length at full droop. IFS GM front brake lines are even longer and bolt in. The rear brake line you won't need to touch as its the length of the upper rear control arm. Lengthen that arm, you need to address the rear brake line.
Based on the shocks you choose, you need to address the full compression. Keeping the tires off the body as well as keeping the shock from full compression. Longer bump stops are available as well as risers which are secured to the axle housing. THe stock rubber bump stop usually is deteriorated or its gone. Rubber and polyurethane bump stops are available. Aluminum discs are adjustable risers or get the solid riser.  
Jagular7
97 SE - Rubbered and locked for fun
94 SE - stock, collecting parts for 37s

4BangerTJ

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #28 on: January 21, 2011, 03:32:49 PM »
wow that is a lot of really good info. gotta get a game plan together now.

4BangerTJ

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #29 on: January 21, 2011, 03:41:46 PM »
so you have a 97 SE on 35s? Are you running a dana 44 in the rear?