Topic: What lift?

[4BangerTJ]

Ok so this 99 TJ is my first ever jeep so I really don't even know its capabilites considering all I ever drove was jacked up chevys so bare wth me. So I have come to the decision that I wanna do some 33s will I later on decide t change out the axles with dana 44s. So with that being said I do not plan on doing some crazy rock crawling I just wanna go down some more challenging trailes than my chevys were capable of. This is also my daily driver. Now I am not the kinda guy that cares a lot about it keeping factory ride quality. With all that being said I need to know what kind and size lift I should go with. I have heard a lot about re and ome lifts but I am open to anything. What size should I go with as I want tht beefy look but really don't wanna have to mod a lot of the drivetrain right now till I decide to go bigger later. I hae heard that anything above 3" you will have vibration issues and have to change a lot more but don't know how true that is. Also I keep hearing about motor mount lifts and quick discnnects for th sway bars. Are they really needed and what do they do? Any advice would be great.

[sharpxmen]

I don't have a TJ but this is what i would do

2'' lift
1'' body lift

I think on a TJ with 3'' total would clear 33s and you might get away in the back adjusting the arms to get the right driveshaft angle and not having to install transfer case lowering kit or SYE

the TJ guys can be more specific on options (how to adjust the arms or what lift etc) and if this would clear the tires.

[Jeffy]

I would run no more then 1.5" body lift.

If you're going to stick with 33's then there isn't any reason to go with a fancy long arm suspension.  I'd go with a Rubicon Express 3.5".  It's a well established kit and very popular.  Should come with almost everything you'll need as well.

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/SuspensionSystems/Product.aspx?part=RE7003

For shocks I would go with Bilstein 5100 or 5150's if you want to get fancy.

You will also want to get a Slip Yoke Eliminator though if you want to do it right.  There are a lot of companies that makes a SYE.

Got wheels you will want 4.75" BS if you want the tires to stay somewhat under the flares.  This also helps the wheel bearings although I've never heard of it being an issue really.  3.75" is common for those running 35's so there is still some steering radius left.  4" is probably the more common size but that really pushes the tires outside the flares and starts to throw a lot of crap up onto the sides and windshield.  Then you're looking at wider flares to fix that.

[4BangerTJ]

So are you saying to run the re 3.5 lift and a 1" body lift or just th lift itself. Is a sye all that I would need with it and what exactly does that do? Also can you give m anymore info on what the motor mount lifts do and the quick disconnects for the sway bar, are they worth it? thanks.

[Jeffy]

So are you saying to run the re 3.5 lift and a 1" body lift or just th lift itself. Is a sye all that I would need with it and what exactly does that do? Also can you give m anymore info on what the motor mount lifts do and the quick disconnects for the sway bar, are they worth it? thanks.

Forget the body lift.  You don't need one for 33's.

[Dylan]

A slip yoke eliminator (SYE) replaces the slip yoke output of your transfer case with a fixed yoke, enabling you to run a rear driveshaft with a double cardan (CV) joint.  Its purpose is to prevent driveline vibes when you lift the Jeep.  Motor mount lifts kinda serve the same purpose, they angle the driveline so as to reduce vibes... the other method most commonly used for vibes is a transfer case drop (spacers placed between the transfer case skid plate and the frame to alter driveline angles).

Sway bar disconnects are used so you can keep the bar connected on road for better handling, then disconnect the sway bar for off road driving to increase articulation.  Having increased articulation means your suspension will flex better and keep the wheels in contact with the ground which aids your traction (it reduces having a wheel lifted in the air).

To clear 33" tires without fender trimming, it's recommended to run about 3-3.5 inches of lift... you can do that with a straight suspension lift or with a combination of suspension and body lifts (ie run a 3.5" susp lift or a 2.5" susp and 1" body lift).  Running 33" tires wider than 10.5 inches will require either new wheels with less backspacing, wheel spacers, or some creative clearancing in your wheel wells with a BFH.

[4BangerTJ]

Ok I have been reading a bit about the re lifts a lot and they seem to get good reviews. Now what benefits do you get going with  full suspension lift like the re lift versus going with a small lift and a body lift? I get the info you are saying on the wheels and did plan on going with some aftermarket steel wheels with 33x10.50x15s so I should be ok wth the offset part of that. Also if you use an sye dos that mean you have to run a new driveshat cause I was really trying to stay away from going that far till I do 35s later. The re kit come with a transfer case drop would that sufice? thanks.

[4BangerTJ]

Also one other question. If I were to go ahead and put a dana 44 in it now, are there mods needed to make any old dana 44 fit or should I look for ones from a certain model or are there none that will bolt strraight up? And also what might be a good price ifi were to search for one? Jus the part itself. thanks

[DodgeMudder]

Also one other question. If I were to go ahead and put a dana 44 in it now, are there mods needed to make any old dana 44 fit or should I look for ones from a certain model or are there none that will bolt strraight up? And also what might be a good price ifi were to search for one? Jus the part itself. thanks

Only bolt in 44 would be from a TJ Rubicon, everything else will require atleast welding on new brackets, depending on where you get the axle will make a big difference on what will have to be done to make everything work, bolt patterns and brakes and such, the Rubicon 44 will be a direct replacement, everything else requires mods.

[4BangerTJ]

Good to know. thanks.

[4BangerTJ]

Anyone got any info on the prior post?

[FourbangerYJ]

Anyone got any info on the prior post?

For a rear D44 a lot of TJ's came with them after 98. Look for a Sahara package. From what I understand they all came with a D44 rear. It's a direct swap. Your D30 will be fine with 33 inch tires.

[4BangerTJ]

Got ya. Now when it comes to full suspension lifts versus like a smaller lift and body lift or a spacer and body lift, what are the pros and cons of each style lift? Also if I use an sye dos that mean I have to replace the driveshaft?

[4BangerTJ]

Also if I get a kit with a transfer case drop would that sufice or would I still need an sye?

[FourbangerYJ]

Got ya. Now when it comes to full suspension lifts versus like a smaller lift and body lift or a spacer and body lift, what are the pros and cons of each style lift? Also if I use an sye dos that mean I have to replace the driveshaft?

Yes you would need a new shaft.

Also if I get a kit with a transfer case drop would that sufice or would I still need an sye?

Depends on how much lift you end up with. A small lift should be fine without the SYE. You could install the lift and if you get vibes then a SYE could be installed.