Topic: New found hate for rust!!!!

[SDWE61988]

I just have to rant!

 :brick:I have been working on my jeep on and off now for about 3 weeks.  I purchased a Pro Comp 2.5 in suspension lift kit to replace the worn factory suspension and a cat back exhaust.  This project has turned into a mini restoration.  The single biggest complication in the fracking rusted bolts!  I have wasted more time trying to free up the old bolts with  Aero Kroil, PB BLaster, and any other penetrent oil I can get my hands on,  Heating it up with a torch, then usually end up breaking the bolts or damaging it beyond use anyway.  This past Saturday, I ended up running out to the local Sears to purchase a pnumatic (sp?) cutting tool so that I could finish taking the rear spings and track bar off!  Then when relocating the front brake connections, the steel break lines must have been pretty weak, because they started to leak.  So now I have added a break line replacement to the list of things to work on.  The front suspension is finally on and the rear is almost disassembled.  I just have to drill out the old rear track bar bolt  to the frame and I can finally start working on the brake lines before I complete the suspension.  I just had to blow off some steam.  The body and frame are still in good shape, but I know this dreaded problem will be showing it ugly head again soon.  This has went from a nice little upgrade to the worst auto project I have ever undertaken.  It is a good thing I have another vehicle to use while this work/restoration go on.    Ok rant over now.     

[chardrc]

ha i know what your saying.. rust makes an easy task take forever... i had the track-bar bolts shatter the torqs bit i had and ended up getting them out with a vise-grips, penetrating fluid, and a long pipe... 

[SDWE61988]

Yes thank god for long pipes.  Torx is a another rant but I will save that for another day.

[Jeffy]

An impact wrench is your friend.  If it doesn't loosen the bolt it will rip them apart.

You might also want to check your body mount bolts but that might end up being another project.

[Torch_Ind]

Torx is a another rant but I will save that for another day.

 

so true!!!  the only thing they need to be on is seat belts and safety stuff.. even then..

[neale_rs]

Just wait until you need to replace a front unit bearing!  That will be fun.

[SDWE61988]

Oh I can hardly wait!!!  Yes, unfortunatly the body mounts will need to be done sooner or later.   My impact tools and compressor are getting a heck of a workout.  I finally got most of the brake lines off.  I still need to get the rear track bar off.     Then, maybe then I can finally start re- assembling. 

[Jeffy]

Oh I can hardly wait!!!  Yes, unfortunatly the body mounts will need to be done sooner or later.   My impact tools and compressor are getting a heck of a workout.  I finally got most of the brake lines off.  I still need to get the rear track bar off.     Then, maybe then I can finally start re- assembling. 

I'd do the body bolts by hand.  If you're lucky they will come out after a good soak with penetrating oil.  When I removed mine, they has about 1/4" eaten away from rust.

[SDWE61988]

I do have a question about the lift kit.  It came with spacer bolts to lower the transfer case.  Is that really required for a 2.5 in lift?  What is the optimum angle +/- for the drive shafts?  One of the bolts holting the skid plate to the frame, is strippd from another job in the past. 

[Jeffy]

I do have a question about the lift kit.  It came with spacer bolts to lower the transfer case.  Is that really required for a 2.5 in lift?  What is the optimum angle +/- for the drive shafts?  One of the bolts holting the skid plate to the frame, is strippd from another job in the past. 

Yes and no.  It really depends as a 2.5" sometimes means 3" in the rear and 2.5" in the front.  Then you calculate for sag and you're maybe looking at 3.25" in the rear.  If you have shims in the rear leafs then you will want to remove them if you remove the transfer case spacer.  I don't run any spacers but then my D44 puts the pinion much higher then the D35 and I use a 1" MM lift.  it makes noise if I don't keep it greased in 5th and sometimes 4th.  I should convert it to a SYE but I keep putting it off.  Been doing that for over 10 years now.

[SDWE61988]

I will have to look at it after the rear suspension is installed again.  The stock springs were completly flat when the vehicle rested on them.  I am not sure what to expect with these new springs yet.  I thought I saw somewhere that the optimum angle for the drive shaft is 15 degrees.  Does that sound right?

[Jeffy]

I will have to look at it after the rear suspension is installed again.  The stock springs were completly flat when the vehicle rested on them.  I am not sure what to expect with these new springs yet.  I thought I saw somewhere that the optimum angle for the drive shaft is 15 degrees.  Does that sound right?

Well optimum angle would be 1* as it would be the minimum angle required to more the needle bearings and keep them lubricated.  Max operational angle is something like 30* for a 1310.  A 1330 is 20*.  Keep in mind that with more angle, there is more wear as the needle bearings will be spinning faster.

[SDWE61988]

Thanks for the advice.  I ordered a new rear track bar and replacement eye bolts for the rear springs yesterday.  A neighbor is coming over tomorrow and may be able to finish ( hopefully) cutting the old one out with a torch, and then hopefully repair the frame mount.  If all goes well, maybe i can finally start reassemby of the suspension.  After the rear is assembled I want to measure the DL angle to see what I am dealing with before i start any thing else. I still having issues with the brake line replacement, so that will be yet another delay( looks like wrong fittings).

[neale_rs]

On a YJ it's better to just leave the rear track bar off.  I've been running it with both track bars removed for years now with no problems.  Some people prefer to run a front track bar but the rear one is usually left off.

[Jeffy]

On a YJ it's better to just leave the rear track bar off.  I've been running it with both track bars removed for years now with no problems.  Some people prefer to run a front track bar but the rear one is usually left off.

+1 I removed my track bars back in 1997 and haven't looked back.  Although I did have the front one one and off for a while longer.  The front track bar heled with bumpsteer.  Now I just live with it and brake accordingly.  There is really no reason to have ther ear track bar other then to stiffen your suspension and have it break off when offroad.