Author Topic: swap 2.5 for 4.0 throttle body  (Read 2367 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

jackhammer

  • Guest
swap 2.5 for 4.0 throttle body
« on: February 26, 2006, 10:47:29 PM »
Tuesday is half price at the u pull it by my house. I have 95YJ 4bang auto. What year xj will the Throttle body match up.  I already know there are not going to be any YJ's.

Offline Jeffy

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 14934
swap 2.5 for 4.0 throttle body
« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2006, 11:49:41 PM »
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

jackhammer

  • Guest
swap 2.5 for 4.0 throttle body
« Reply #2 on: February 27, 2006, 07:28:26 AM »
As you can tell I am probebly an idiot.
-
 I had read that before wich gave me the idea. Are anti tamper torx bolts different than reg torx.
-
 I have a 95, so I should check mine there could only be 2 sensors toward the rear(when standing in front) ais and tps.
-
If it has sensor on the right it is map. Just make sure the one I get has the same number of sensors.
-
 I would rather ask stupid questions than take 2 or 3 trips to the bone yard.  
-
Is there any prep I should do to the body before installing. There arnt floats and stuff right .  I can get away with just soaking it in carb/parts cleaner.
-
I will install the higher tech airfilter tube like K&N later with the spacer when I have more disposable income. Will my current intake tube fit on this TB

Offline Jeffy

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 14934
swap 2.5 for 4.0 throttle body
« Reply #3 on: February 27, 2006, 12:34:44 PM »
Quote from: "jackhammer"
As you can tell I am probebly an idiot.
-
 I had read that before wich gave me the idea. Are anti tamper torx bolts different than reg torx.
-
 I have a 95, so I should check mine there could only be 2 sensors toward the rear(when standing in front) ais and tps.
-
If it has sensor on the right it is map. Just make sure the one I get has the same number of sensors.
-
 I would rather ask stupid questions than take 2 or 3 trips to the bone yard.  
-
Is there any prep I should do to the body before installing. There arnt floats and stuff right .  I can get away with just soaking it in carb/parts cleaner.
-
I will install the higher tech airfilter tube like K&N later with the spacer when I have more disposable income. Will my current intake tube fit on this TB


Tamper-proof or Saftey Torx have a center pin in the center of teh star pattern.  The drive will have a hole that it fits into.  Some people knock the pins out but you can find the drives for cheap.  I bought mine off ebay for $4.  That was years ago, I've seen them around even at Radio Shack.

I suspect you have the MAP sensor on the firewall.  It would be dead center at the top of the wall.  Has a three prong plug that goes into it.  The MAP on the side of the TB is fairly large and easy to identify.

You'll probably get a TB with all of the old sensors on it.  You have a choice, either use those or transfer the 2.5L stuff onto the new TB.  Mine didn't have any sensors or the AIS housing so I had to reuse them.  What you don't want to do is mix and match parts.  The TBS are the same but the AIS is different.  If you use the 4.0L AIS then use the 4.0L housing.  2.5L AIS, 2.5L housing....

If you want to clean the TB then take the sensors and AIS off.  Most problem come from people cleaning their TB and forcing gunk into the AIS housing while fouls the AIS plunger.

As fro the K&N, personally, I wouldn't bother.  Most of the guy's who run in the desert don't like K&N's because they allow fine dust to enter the engine.  A prefilter helps but that's adding more cost when a $5 paper element will work just as good.  I used to have a conical K&N but stopped using it for emissions.  When I did, I noticed that my engine vacuum pressure rose and the MAP worked better.  Increasing the air flow, will drop the pressure so the MAP thinks there is less air entering the engine and leans the system out.  You'd need to compensate for this with an adjustable MAP controller of some sort.  The other side effect, I noticed was weaker brakes.

I've been thinking about routing a hose from the airbox to the front of the Jeep to act as a cold air intake.  I'd be able to remove it for water crossings but otherwise, it would allow for colder air to enter the engine.  In stock config, the airbox gets it's air from behind the left turn signal.
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

jetty

  • Guest
swap 2.5 for 4.0 throttle body
« Reply #4 on: March 01, 2006, 04:49:55 PM »
I finally broke down and did the conversion just a couple weeks ago. Here is what I noticed.... definitely worth it for the money and time. Any XJ from 92 to 95 will work for your YJ. Make sure it has the IAC valve and housing. The TPS for the 4.0L and 2.5L are the same part so you don't need to transplant that. Taking off the throttle body is easy and you can safely dremel the intake, after stuffing it completely with clean towels, to just inside the new gasket diameter. I do recommend resizing the intake because leaving a "barrier" in the airstream after you have taken the time to get a larger throttle body in the first place seems a little odd.... it takes very little time with a dremel and will be that much better once you get it all done. I broke a safety torx using a 1/4" ratchet on the bolts to the IAC so I got out the 3/8" impact and gently zipped mine off and the problem was solved. I am sure a 1/4 would work too but the impact made all the difference. Make sure you transfer the IAC housing as well, the opening in the IAC housing for the 4.0L is too large for the plunger in the 2.5L IAC housing so you will need it on the new TB. Once you have it off then you can take some throttle body cleaner and clean everything up. Vacuum the intake well just in case some chips got in there and reistall everything. Give the ECU a few miles to adjust and you will be all set.

jackhammer

  • Guest
swap 2.5 for 4.0 throttle body
« Reply #5 on: March 01, 2006, 10:37:18 PM »
Thanks for the tips. I couldnt make it to the yard tuesday. I am going to try for next tuesday.  I deffinitley am going to pull the TB from the yard next week.  I have come to the conclusion that since my title arrived yesterday that my emmission slip should be coming soon after.  In Illinois they get you when you first register the car then 1 year later. Then 2 after that.  So I will pull it while I have the time(go back to work april) and install after emissions then I will have a year to not sweat it.  I like the drummel Idea.  I usually do my more involving work at my uncles he has the compressor tools and the drummel.  One thing I did notice is that I found out the motor has been replaced @ around 90 with a motor that had 20.  Now my odometer is at 140.  Well anyways the 4 tamper torx bolts on my are standard bolts. Another funny thing the valve cover is metal. deffinitly not plastic like the ones Ive read about. Any ideas about where this motor came from or the mech. probebly just used reg bolts to use sensors from old motor.