sharpxmen
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« Reply #120 on: March 27, 2010, 07:52:04 PM » |
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I'll check it for leaks. Probably won't take it apart though. If you want to send me another, I won't complain, LOL. I don't have a gauge yet so I'm a bit weary on taking the screw off. I suspect it's not leaking and that the richness is from the trim not being adjusted since I just reset the PCM again.
next time i make a few i'll make you another one with the vac port thru the adjusting screw. i didn't mean to take the screw off, i'll take some pics maybe tomorrow to explain it better. you could be right about the trims, it gets better in time. |
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chrisfranklin
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« Reply #121 on: March 28, 2010, 07:39:10 PM » |
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I had a chance to drive it on the highway today. Was generally not forced in to being on the gas pedal as before on flat highway and grades. Still down-shifted in a couple of usual locations but I could tell the torque was better throughout the rev range.  |
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'94 2.5 YJ S 5spd, Borla Cat-Back, CarSound Cat, Ceram. Headers, PDI Ignition, 62mm TB, Airraid intake, 19lb injectors, Sharp's Adjust. FPR, MeanGreen Starter, 210 amp alternator, D30 Aussie, 31" Destination MTs, bunch of armor.
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sharpxmen
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« Reply #122 on: March 28, 2010, 08:35:58 PM » |
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I had a chance to drive it on the highway today. Was generally not forced in to being on the gas pedal as before on flat highway and grades. Still down-shifted in a couple of usual locations but I could tell the torque was better throughout the rev range. cool  you did reset the computer right? (just in case you forgot) and thanks for the order  |
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sharpxmen
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« Reply #123 on: March 28, 2010, 09:24:16 PM » |
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I'll check it for leaks. Probably won't take it apart though. If you want to send me another, I won't complain, LOL. I don't have a gauge yet so I'm a bit weary on taking the screw off. I suspect it's not leaking and that the richness is from the trim not being adjusted since I just reset the PCM again.
this is what i meant about sealing the adjusting screw and nut you twist some teflon tape to make it into a thread, loosen the locking nut but hold the adjusting screw in place, wrap the teflon thread around the adjusting screw between the nut and the billet cap, tighten the nut - that will crush the teflon thread in there and seal the screw - works well, did all the other ones this way and they all hold vacuum w/o leaks.   |
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chrisfranklin
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« Reply #124 on: March 28, 2010, 10:32:17 PM » |
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cool you did reset the computer right? (just in case you forgot) and thanks for the order Oh yeah, I had the battery disconnected for the duration of the install. And you're welcome! |
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'94 2.5 YJ S 5spd, Borla Cat-Back, CarSound Cat, Ceram. Headers, PDI Ignition, 62mm TB, Airraid intake, 19lb injectors, Sharp's Adjust. FPR, MeanGreen Starter, 210 amp alternator, D30 Aussie, 31" Destination MTs, bunch of armor.
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aw12345
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« Reply #125 on: March 28, 2010, 10:40:52 PM » |
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Chris to reset the ECM you need to do a bit more than just disconnect the battery.
You have to ground the positive battery terminal for a couple of minutes to discharge the capacitors in the ECM
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2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ SE
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jfrabat
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« Reply #126 on: March 28, 2010, 10:47:28 PM » |
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Chris to reset the ECM you need to do a bit more than just disconnect the battery.
You have to ground the positive battery terminal for a couple of minutes to discharge the capacitors in the ECM
Or unplug it over night; that should also reset it... Or reset it with a code scanner. |
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'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Adv. Ad. SYE, Woody Shaft, Superwinch EPi9.0, 62mm TB, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-4.88, 165A alt., 4 KC aux lights, Aluminum Rad, BRX hoses, 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Bosch 19# Injector, Safari Snorkel, Hydroboost
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chrisfranklin
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« Reply #127 on: March 29, 2010, 01:12:53 AM » |
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Chris to reset the ECM you need to do a bit more than just disconnect the battery.
You have to ground the positive battery terminal for a couple of minutes to discharge the capacitors in the ECM
Art, I did have it touching metal for the duration -- I'd be surprised if that didn't do the trick. |
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« Last Edit: March 29, 2010, 01:13:59 AM by chrisfranklin »
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'94 2.5 YJ S 5spd, Borla Cat-Back, CarSound Cat, Ceram. Headers, PDI Ignition, 62mm TB, Airraid intake, 19lb injectors, Sharp's Adjust. FPR, MeanGreen Starter, 210 amp alternator, D30 Aussie, 31" Destination MTs, bunch of armor.
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Jeffy
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« Reply #128 on: April 06, 2010, 04:23:34 PM » |
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I unscrewed the lock nut and added a couple wraps of Teflon tape. Although the lock nut is down against the housing and not sitting above, which I'm guessing isn't tightened all the way. I hope didn't move the bolt too much as I did it while still on the rail.
Oh yeah, One thing I noticed was that when I removed the turn down on the box I not only lost a bit of the low end but I had to be a bit more careful with the throttle as thick soles had it harder to feel the pedal and I sometimes lift off the throttle too quickly when starting on a hill and lug it. I also noticed the torque seems to have petered off around 3000 rpm. Or so it felt but then it would pick back up once around 3300. It didn't feel consistent though. Maybe I had a vacuum leak at the FPR?
With the turn down back in, the engine isn't as touchy but the low-end torque is a lot more forgiving. I'll have to see how it is on the highways though as usual, I'll probably lose some HP on the high end.
Oh, one other change which might account for the inconsistent feel. I put the roof rack back on and it's noticeable when I drive. I don't drive over 65MPH as it feels like I've got the sails up. I'll either take it off or leave and and start some new tests as the baseline is a bit different now.
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« Last Edit: April 06, 2010, 04:31:24 PM by Jeffy »
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firebrick43
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« Reply #129 on: April 12, 2010, 07:55:32 AM » |
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Just so I know I am processing things right. The adjuster bolt is not actually pressing on the diaphragm but compressing the spring as to increase pressure? Thanks
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Jeffy
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« Reply #130 on: April 12, 2010, 10:04:43 AM » |
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Just so I know I am processing things right. The adjuster bolt is not actually pressing on the diaphragm but compressing the spring as to increase pressure? Thanks
You can see how it's put together in these pictures: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,8066.60.htmlThe bolt goes through the housing then presses onto a plate which sits on top of the spring. The spring sits on top of the diaphragm. |
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Bounty Hunter
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« Reply #131 on: April 26, 2010, 09:58:39 PM » |
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Which, if any, of these types of threads needs teflon tape to seal? |
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sharpxmen
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« Reply #132 on: April 26, 2010, 10:04:13 PM » |
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Which, if any, of these types of threads needs teflon tape to seal?
only the NPT threads, the only one that does not need tape is the -4 AN that is on the schraeder valve adapter. don't forget to take out the valve inside the rail first (the schraeder valve) when you install the gauge did you mount the FPR yet? |
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Bounty Hunter
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« Reply #133 on: April 27, 2010, 11:15:05 AM » |
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I mounted the FPR but haven't had a chance to reset the 'puter and drive it.
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sharpxmen
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« Reply #134 on: June 05, 2010, 11:34:03 PM » |
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I'm naive to this, but any idea what would be the harm/benefits in just capping off the vacuum line going to the stock one with stock and or aftermarket fuel injectors?
- not sure why you would want to cap the vac port, won't make a difference at wide open throttle cons to your suggestion: won't find an injector to match exactly the desired flow and if by some miracle you will find one the price would be the other impediment unless you'll find some second hand ones (just a matter of luck). benefits of your suggestion: none really, even with aftermarket injectors you'll still need a way to adjust the flow. might want to read this thread, the issue with Ford Design III injectors is explained quite a bit in previous posts. |
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