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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Jeffy on July 18, 2011, 10:34:57 PM
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Anyone upgrade their headlights? I think we need a thread on headlights and what people use. Jeep headlights are notoriously bad.
I've heard mixed results with Sylvania Silverlights
I still have stock lights with aftermarket AUX. Been thinking about going with a HID conversion or even a HID Projection. Anyone have any experience with them? I love the cut off HID's have. Still, I think they will be bright on a lifted Jeep as the cut off is going to be higher then most cars at 25ft-50ft.
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i used Sylvania but i think at the time (6 years ago or so) they were called Super Bright X vision or something like that - I can't remember exactly. They were awesome (really), one burned after about 2 years and I went back to get a replacement, but the ones i had were discontinued but there was some equivalent replacement (could be the silverlights but not sure) - not even close to the other ones, couldn't find them since and the clerk at the store told me that they were not legal that's why they were pulled out of the stores. Now i got a set that has repaceable bulbs, got the 100w ones but did not get a chance to drive the Jeep with them yet. What sucks is the lens look-alike in the center of the headlights, i don't dig that but some do.
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Still running the stockers.
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I put on a light bar.
never found the headlights on my jeep to be that bad. even with stock bulbs I have been flashed at when pulling trailers on low beam setting.
try a head light adjustment or even just new set of bulbs.
I have ran HID's unless you have proper projector head lights they won't work that great, and you will be flashed none stop with a lifted vehicle cause of the cut unless you aim them down witch totally defeats having them!
you could get the brighter rated bulbs like the Silvana ones etc.. but my findings with them is they burn out quicker and cost 4-5 times more.
in my opinion it's not worth the extra cash spent. your better off putting on a good set of fogs on your bumper and running 4 beams
p.s. the light bar rocks for beaming the people who flash you cause you have a trailer on the back :thumb:
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I had the lense type housings Sharp mentioned and recently replaced em with Rampage housings,can pick and choose whatever bulbs I want to run.I had alot of problems at night not being able to see far enough with the stock headlights,especially after night runs on back roads etc,seeing a deer after its too late sucks.I would recommend getting some.I do have Kc's and dont need to use em much anymore because I run a higher watt headlight.Bulbs are relatively cheap to experiment with,I keep the ones Ive "culled" as backups..
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Mine could use an upgrade. Would probably buy a setup, including wiring, through Stern lighting or maybe check out an HD kit and wiring where those are sold.
I wouldn't mind high-beams that lit "forever," but low-beams I'd rather have something better than stock, but not enough to get a lot of people flashing, police doing u-turns. Was thinking maybe 55w/100w bulbs in say a Cibie or Hella housing, upgraded wiring.
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I use Delta's H4 conversion kits. Better than stock, but still not nearly enough light by themselves. I add a couple of 55W KC Slimlight (fog light pattern) on the front bumper for daily drive, and for night roads, I have a pair of 100W KC Daylighters (long range pattern) which really lights up the road ahead.
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I went with the IPF housing and the Fatboy bulbs 3 years ago...they kick ass.
Bright...focused in the right spots.
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I went with the IPF housing and the Fatboy bulbs 3 years ago...they kick ass.
Bright...focused in the right spots.
you have round headlights, even stock yours are probably twice better than the square ones. wait till you drive a YJ at night :yikes:
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Mine came with Sylvanias already in it. I think they're Silverstars but I don't know for sure. They're pretty darn bright. People flash me all the time when I just have the low beams on.
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I run the sylvania silverstars and they are good. If you live in socal there are so many cars on the roads at night its like daytime.
Run my KC's at night on the trails
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Im running the cheapest sylvania replacements in my xj, the lows are to low for my liking but the brights are pretty good imo
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i snagged the h4 conversion from quadratech for 50 bucks used. guy wrecked his jeep and was parting it out. i love them soo far brighter then stock but have more plans in future.
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I'm running Hella H4's with PIAA Xtreme White Plus bulbs 4000K 65/55w = 120/110w. I couldn't ask for better lighting.
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I upgraded my headlights to HIDs, HUGE difference. Very easy to do, cost about $120 total, new lights with the removable bulb, HID ballasts and all the wiring harnesses needed. Funny thing is the manufacturer goofed up and sent me angle eyes with a blue hue, since i had it i wired it into a separate switch. Its really worthless on the function side - but looks cool in the dark.
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I upgraded my headlights to HIDs, HUGE difference. Very easy to do, cost about $120 total, new lights with the removable bulb, HID ballasts and all the wiring harnesses needed. Funny thing is the manufacturer goofed up and sent me angle eyes with a blue hue, since i had it i wired it into a separate switch. Its really worthless on the function side - but looks cool in the dark.
do you have daytime running lights, is that still working? how's the high beam on the HIDs, regular bulb or is it motor actuated?
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No daytime running lights - and no high beams(FL does not require high beams) - the high beams you can get are halogens which are about the same brightness as the HIDs, just make sure you re-angle the lights so they do not blind oncoming traffic.
not sure what you mean by motor actuated.
Here is a link to what they are:
http://www.carhidkits.com/xenon-hid-kit-99/8000k-hid-kit-184.html
I like the real crisp white light rather than a color beam.
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not sure what you mean by motor actuated.
there are 2 types of high/low beam combination HID bulbs: one has a filament for the high beam just like a regular bulb, the other one has a little stepper motor that creates the high beam by moving the HID bulb (or or moves the screen, can't remember exactly but i'm sure you understand what i mean).
And then there are the ones with only low beam (what you got) - I was looking at doing the conversion as well but the HID with high beam option was too expensive, the HID with regular high beam was the same as I have today and the "no high beam" was not appealing. the other thing is that i have the daytime running module and I heard it won't work with HIDs, not that it can't be modded to work but not plug and play i guess.
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I've done a lot of researching into doing an HID conversion. Ultimatley, for me and in short, I don't want to risk the ticket in not doing a full projectiong HID conversion (which is timely and expensive.) The inexpensive kits blind oncomming drivers and can get you a ticket if they're not in a projection housing.
Here's some longer discussions
http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,8484.0.html
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The housing I have is a projection. When you have them on it has a clean flat line on the top where it cuts off. That flat line is cool, and HID light signs up so well, even in the rain the road lines shine.
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The housing I have is a projection. When you have them on it has a clean flat line on the top where it cuts off. That flat line is cool, and HID light signs up so well, even in the rain the road lines shine.
I wish most of the projections didn't look so ugly. The reflector with the fish-eye glass looks really bad. I'd like to see a dual 6x7 with no extra reflector.
Only problem with HID's on a lifted truck is the cutoff is usually still too high.
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I have Cibie H4 conversions in mine with 120/55 watt bulbs.
Good cutoff, awsome high beams had them for 12 years...
Dave
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Only problem with HID's on a lifted truck is the cutoff is usually still too high.
you adjust the cutoff by the headlight angle, HIDs would be no different than regular headlights for that - it's where it hits the ground that matters though but all that is for oncoming traffic, if you're close behind someone then yeah, you'll flood their interior with light.
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you adjust the cutoff by the headlight angle, HIDs would be no different than regular headlights for that - it's where it hits the ground that matters though but all that is for oncoming traffic, if you're close behind someone then yeah, you'll flood their interior with light.
I knew someone would mention that. BUT... Optimally you want your headlights pointed parallel to the wheels so you get as much throw. Aim them down and you get less throw. Unfortunately, there's no way around this unless you mount the headlights lower. Back in the day I used to use one of these to aim headlights. Pretty low tech, it was a box with split mirrors in it. Now a days they use lasers.
(http://www.ntxtools.com/Merchant/graphics/00000001/hpy-1003b.gif)
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I knew someone would mention that. BUT... Optimally you want your headlights pointed parallel to the wheels so you get as much throw. Aim them down and you get less throw. Unfortunately, there's no way around this unless you mount the headlights lower. Back in the day I used to use one of these to aim headlights. Pretty low tech, it was a box with split mirrors in it. Now a days they use lasers.
you're supposed to aim the beam down, something like in front of a wall at x distance the cutoff would be at y height which would be lower than the headlight height
just did a google search for "headlights low beam adjustment rules" and first hit that came up says 2 inches lower at 25 feet.
http://www.coolbulbs.com/HID-VISUAL-HEADLIGHT-AIMING-PROCEDURE.pdf
and another one http://www.midstatedmc.com/tech/aim.htm that mentions 3'' below headlight center or 2.1'' per US specs.
either way needs to point down otherwise you'll blind the oncoming traffic.
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you're supposed to aim the beam down, something like in front of a wall at x distance the cutoff would be at y height which would be lower than the headlight height
It's done at 25ft 2-4" below centerline. But doing it this way isn't as accurate since you can't be sure the car is actually level.
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Was looking at the Hella housings and bulbs (55/65).
I know ARB sells that upgraded wiring harness, but that's if you are running really powerful bulbs or something, right? Know that harness would probably help street-legal bulbs too, but you think it's absolutely necessary?
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anybody ever had issues with there headlights flickering with the delta headlight conversion? mine has burnt up 2 headlight switches now. i emailed delta and they said i have may have a short but i cant seehow i would have a short?any ideas??
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anybody ever had issues with there headlights flickering with the delta headlight conversion? mine has burnt up 2 headlight switches now. i emailed delta and they said i have may have a short but i cant seehow i would have a short?any ideas??
Pulling too many amps with cheap switches or connectors. You have a relay in there right?
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Pulling too many amps with cheap switches or connectors. You have a relay in there right?
yeah relay. i got around to pulaying with it. it was an 100/80 Watt bulb in it!!!!! :rage: gonna get stock 9003s until i can afford my hid kit
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yeah relay. i got around to pulaying with it. it was an 100/80 Watt bulb in it!!!!! :rage: gonna get stock 9003s until i can afford my hid kit
So you bypassed the stock harness and running it on a separate harness? The switches should be on a low amp circuit with the higher amps going to the lights. I'd imagine the relays would melt if they weren't up to the task.
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Well one of mine seems to have burnt out. (It's 19 years old) So I'm going to have to get something sooner then later. I'm thinking HID Projection.
Thoughts? What kits are good?
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anyone know where to get euro-style housing upgrades (the real ones and not knock-offs)? lmctruck used to have them a long time ago but don't seem to anymore.
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anyone know where to get euro-style housing upgrades (the real ones and not knock-offs)? lmctruck used to have them a long time ago but don't seem to anymore.
I know Hella sells them in NA.
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Looking at something like this, BUT the ballast looks so small. Good or bad?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HID-79-01-JEEP-CHEROKEE-7X6-PROJECTOR-HEADLIGHTS-CHROME-/220895548282?fits=Make:Jeep&hash=item336e66937a&item=220895548282&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_4630wt_1233
(http://d3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfront.net/23000548/images/h46-lhp7x6-new2.jpg)
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Looking at something like this, BUT the ballast looks so small. Good or bad?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HID-79-01-JEEP-CHEROKEE-7X6-PROJECTOR-HEADLIGHTS-CHROME-/220895548282?fits=Make:Jeep&hash=item336e66937a&item=220895548282&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_4630wt_1233
i have the ones in the picture but they are not legal, the reflector is not compliant since they are clear covers. the HID high beam that's in that auction is halogen, only low beam is HID but then again that is not legal since it is a reflector and not projector (i hope i didn't get it backwards) that is not a spherical lens but just some shiny cover over the bulb.
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i just have some old sylvanias, i think at the time they were called ultra whites or something like that. they are normal full housing bulbs but i still get people flashing me on low beam, plenty of light though. i would imagine they are the same as the silverstars they have now though. i just dont like the look of hid's. and i have seen people get pulled over with hid's from the ballast fliskering the light slightly at a distance and cops seem to not like that.
as far as night trails, i use the old style kc's with the big 130 bulbs
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i just have some old sylvanias, i think at the time they were called ultra whites or something like that. they are normal full housing bulbs but i still get people flashing me on low beam, plenty of light though. i would imagine they are the same as the silverstars they have now though. i just dont like the look of hid's. and i have seen people get pulled over with hid's from the ballast fliskering the light slightly at a distance and cops seem to not like that.
as far as night trails, i use the old style kc's with the big 130 bulbs
I've heard mixed reviews with the Silvania's. I know a few guy's who had them burn out fairly quick. Others seem to not have any problems with them.
I'm looking into HID's because I love that hard cutoff they have. So they're nice and bright where you need them and cut off where you don't. I do a lot of road driving and the stock setup sucks. The headlights are too close to each other. I have some aux lights as well though PIAA's. The fogs are nice but I do get flashed since yellow pierces the dark better. They're only 55W and with the yellow filter are more like 45W. I added some tape to the lense to cut the light down so it doesn't reflect up as much though. I also have some Cebie's but I haven't had them on the Jeep in a while. They're really nice lights though. I need to get new bulbs for them. They take any kind of H1 but they were originally Ion's which were really cool.
This was also one of the reasons I got a CJ7 hood and grill. The round lights have more options available. Still not sure if I'll use the grill though. I'm kind of found of the square grill.
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Anyone use IPF's H4 conversion? They have FayBoy's II bulbs for $100 and they want another $100 for a harness.
(http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/18087/18087-lg.jpg)
(http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/111566/111566-lg.jpg)
(http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/51576/51576-lg.jpg)
Rampage has some H4 conversion for $80
(http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/67238/67238-lg.jpg)
And Delta has a H4 Conversion for $120
(http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/30724/30724-lg.jpg)
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Anyone use IPF's H4 conversion? They have FayBoy's II bulbs for $100 and they want another $100 for a harness.
why the need for that harness?
i like the Rampage headlights
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why the need for that harness?
i like the Rampage headlights
The output is 80w/60w.
There is also the Vision Plus Single Conversion Headlamp; http://www.myhellalights.com/index.php/default/upgrade-kits-and-accessories/sealed-beam-conversion-headlamps/vision-plus-conversion-headlamp/
This is by far the cheapest and most reputable H4 conversion I think as they are SAE/DOT compliant and have legal HB2/H4 bulbs.
(http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/10373/10373-lg.jpg)
http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003427291-190x132mm-Conversion-Headlamp/dp/B0002M9QRE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I24GSPTPNT9PF0&colid=WG3JTMMB3ZB8
OR
Hella E-Code Euro-spec lights. I'm sorta leaning towards these.
(http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/78771/78771-lg.jpg)
http://www.quadratec.com/products/97052_9000.htm
I could then go with Hella's HB2/H4 legal bulbs for $6. These are the same bulbs in the Halla Vision Plus. http://www.quadratec.com/products/97011_00.htm
Or maybe these 4000K PIAA's http://www.quadratec.com/products/97141_200.htm
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Looks like Amazon has E-code Hella's as well. http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003427011-132mm-Single-Headlamp/dp/B000VUAJEG/ref=reg_hu-rd_dp_img
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I wouldn't buy the harness, u can rewire on your own cheaper and u can buy the pigtails from the autoparts store in a pack for cheap, prob twenty worth of materials and u could do it, I also can't decide on the cj front end, I like the cj clip but hate to let go of my squares since everybody hates them and I love my yj, kinda like square light pride haha
But overall my yj is just a fun time vehicle for me so I don't deal with day to day things much anymore
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I wouldn't buy the harness, u can rewire on your own cheaper and u can buy the pigtails from the autoparts store in a pack for cheap, prob twenty worth of materials and u could do it, I also can't decide on the cj front end, I like the cj clip but hate to let go of my squares since everybody hates them and I love my yj, kinda like square light pride haha
But overall my yj is just a fun time vehicle for me so I don't deal with day to day things much anymore
Yeah, I could make them but that's time I could spend doing other things. It's dark out when I'm on the road so I need decent headlights. I think I'll forgo HIDs and just do a H4 conversion with euro spec lights. Im not really sure if I want to deal with unknown quality and a bit of fabrication. I have a 400 mile road trip In January that I'm getting ready for.
As for the CJ stuff, I have a fully functional grill and hood already. I e been sitting on it for months now.
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if you don't have daytime running lights it might work without the relays but can't tell for sure. 1 relay per beam can also work if you don't have DRL.
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if you don't have daytime running lights it might work without the relays but can't tell for sure. 1 relay per beam can also work if you don't have DRL.
I'm going to pass on the high wattage lights for now. My Jeeps too old to have DRL.
I'll probably order something this weekend.
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I'm going to pass on the high wattage lights for now. My Jeeps too old to have DRL.
I'll probably order something this weekend.
you can run the 55/60w bulbs no problem though, i had a pair of sealed ones and had no issues (and i have the DRL module on it as well).
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you can run the 55/60w bulbs no problem though, i had a pair of sealed ones and had no issues (and i have the DRL module on it as well).
55/60 is what the seal beams are/were. It's what all headlights in the US are actually. Although I think they have moved away from some of the requirements of the old seal beams. No more tabs or aligning anymore. I don't think they require lights to shine up as well as to the sides anymore either. This is the main difference between Euro and DOT lights.
I'd like to run some better designed 55/60w eventually. I know PIAA makes some that produce more light with the same amount of power. My Cebie ION's were like that as well. Only 55w but really bright. Oh and yellow without losing 5w to the tint.
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I'm going to pass on the high wattage lights for now. My Jeeps too old to have DRL.
I'll probably order something this weekend.
what year is your jeep again ? mine is 95 it's got DRL
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what year is your jeep again ? mine is 95 it's got DRL
only Canadian YJs had DRL
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only Canadian YJs had DRL
so age has nothing to do with it then. it's a us problem
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so age has nothing to do with it then. it's a us problem
The harnesses starting having DRL in '94 or 95 in the US since all YJ's were built in Canada but they lacked the DRL module. I don't think Jeep ever adopted DRL in the US as it is not a requirement.
Honestly though, I think DRL is a bad idea. When it first showed up people noticed it. Now, it's blended into the scenery and is no different then when it wasn't required. The bad part is, motorcycles aren't noticed as much as well since they are required to have their headlight on. Now they just blend in like the cars.
In any case, I order the Hella E-Code housings and the 60w/55w H2 HB2 bulbs. Hopefully they will be here before Thanksgiving.
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The harnesses starting having DRL in '94 or 95 in the US since all YJ's were built in Canada but they lacked the DRL module. I don't think Jeep ever adopted DRL in the US as it is not a requirement.
so if i unplug the DRL the headlights should still work? i can run the 90w bulbs then.
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so if i unplug the DRL the headlights should still work? i can run the 90w bulbs then.
I would think so. That's how everyone disables them in the US now.
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Installed them. Haven't tested them yet though. The cut off is a lot nicer. DOT regulation requires lights to project up and to the sides, unlike Euro-spec. Funny thing is Xenon's and HID's don't project up either. It's an outdated regulation for making sure people see unlit road signs.
It will be nice to have headlights though. Driving around with one is really dangerous, especially in the rain, which happens to be fairly often.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R8f_cVd88Rs/TsxCe6VHi9I/AAAAAAAAd1g/0MNxDMhBxps/s720/IMG_0150.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JI8MvvqTSYk/Tsxaaud_4nI/AAAAAAAAd3U/eGGt_T6RCUE/s800/IMG_0160.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rxu9EEBNjfY/TsxaacdzahI/AAAAAAAAd3U/JJakXlVtp7Y/s800/IMG_0162.JPG)
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Those E-Code Hellas look like they cut off nice.
Was interested to see how well the Cibie housings work, so ordered a set of the Cibie E-Code housings + Osram bulbs + harness from DSLighting
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I have the Euro Cibie's LOVE them had them for about 10 years.
I run the 100/55 Watt bulbs in them.
Dave
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I went with the Hella's since they actually sell them in the US, unlike Cebie. Hella has offices in the US and aren't third party imports.
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Mine came from Baxters Auto Parts back then. They are big here in PDX.
I had hella's as well, I think the beam spread on the Cibies is maybe a bit better
than the hella's but its a near thing. I'd not hesitate to buy hella's if I couldn't get the Cibie units.
My hellas were the euro pattern as well, I much prefer it to the DOT pattern.
H4 anything beats sealed beam units! :)
Dave
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Mine came from Baxters Auto Parts back then. They are big here in PDX.
I had hella's as well, I think the beam spread on the Cibies is maybe a bit better
than the hella's but its a near thing. I'd not hesitate to buy hella's if I couldn't get the Cibie units.
My hellas were the euro pattern as well, I much prefer it to the DOT pattern.
H4 anything beats sealed beam units! :)
Dave
I don't know why Cebie doesn't have a US distribution. I have some 6" Cebie Ion's which are great lights.
It's just easier to get Hella's without having to find someone who know's someone. I've heard of people using Hella's E-code lenses ever since they started appearing. I just never bothered to change mine. Now that I have, I have to say they have made a HUGE difference. The stock headlights have a bit hotspot and everything outside of it isn't lit very well. You can see in the last pick, the hotspot isn't that much different then everything else. The cutoff is really nice. I can see it illuminate signs at a distance as they flicker because the lights are moving with the Jeep.
The only bad thing, if there is one is high beam. It's nice and bright BUT it had a small dark spot in the middle of where you look. Also everything in Low beam is dark. This is easily fixed by running the high beams with the low beans instead of using one or the other. Although that requires modifications to the switches.
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The Osram H4 70/65 bulbs were recommended as a good all around H4 bulb. So that's what I got. Just concerned the low beam is, on occasion, going to be "too beaucoup" for the local roads, even with the lights properly aimed. But will give them a shot, then drop down if necessary.
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Hmm, I talked to a shop in southern CA that's a Ciebie warehouse,
They are the OEM manufacturer for many GM cars now. I needed one of the rubber gizmos that
seals the back of the headlight bucket, Lost one changing a bulb along the road
a few months back. HMM guess that was almost 3 years ago now.. (Senior moment...)
LOL
Dave
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Hmm, I talked to a shop in southern CA that's a Ciebie warehouse,
They are the OEM manufacturer for many GM cars now. I needed one of the rubber gizmos that
seals the back of the headlight bucket, Lost one changing a bulb along the road
a few months back. HMM guess that was almost 3 years ago now.. (Senior moment...)
LOL
Dave
I bought my Cebies in Japan. $$$ at the time. I need new plastic covers but they are hard to find for a decent price.
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Know what you mean, I have Hella Rally 2000 lights on my jeep, the covers are as much as most lights.
I'll see if I can dig up the Cibie dudes number....Its been a long while.
Dave
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I think I've mentioned it before, but I am running Sylvania Silverstars and love them. Totally worth the ~$45 for the set. I've been running the same set for nearly two years and have not experienced the 'dimming over time' problem that other Silverstar users apparently experience; mine are still as white as the night I installed them. To this day, friends often that tell me that my headlights are really bright the first time they ride with me or in front of me at night.
I frequently have oncoming drivers flash their hi-beams at me when I'm using low-beams 8)
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I think I've mentioned it before, but I am running Sylvania Silverstars and love them. Totally worth the ~$45 for the set. I've been running the same set for nearly two years and have not experienced the 'dimming over time' problem that other Silverstar users apparently experience; mine are still as white as the night I installed them. To this day, friends often that tell me that my headlights are really bright the first time they ride with me or in front of me at night.
I frequently have oncoming drivers flash their hi-beams at me when I'm using low-beams 8)
i have the same, just got them (used silverstar before). I bought a set of Chinese knockoffs a while ago and the pattern is horrid, unusable. There used to be another kind which were brighter than the silverstars but not available anymore, they had a blue tint but apparently it was not approved so they had to stop production (can't remember if it was Sylvania or another brand but they were awesome).
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I think I've mentioned it before, but I am running Sylvania Silverstars and love them. Totally worth the ~$45 for the set. I've been running the same set for nearly two years and have not experienced the 'dimming over time' problem that other Silverstar users apparently experience; mine are still as white as the night I installed them. To this day, friends often that tell me that my headlights are really bright the first time they ride with me or in front of me at night.
I frequently have oncoming drivers flash their hi-beams at me when I'm using low-beams 8)
Yeah, DOT legal lights are designed to project up which is why with better quality lights, people start to get blinded.
I highly recommend the E-Code lights. They have a sharp cut off so they don't blind anyone until, they're up close but then they're gone. I like the E-Code lights so much I have stopped running my AUX lights. Having H4 bilbs is also a big plus over the seal beams. The one way you can tell a DOT seal beam is that they have three tabs on in lens for an alignment tool.
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Yeah, DOT legal lights are designed to project up which is why with better quality lights, people start to get blinded.
I highly recommend the E-Code lights. They have a sharp cut off so they don't blind anyone until, they're up close but then they're gone. I like the E-Code lights so much I have stopped running my AUX lights. Having H4 bilbs is also a big plus over the seal beams. The one way you can tell a DOT seal beam is that they have three tabs on in lens for an alignment tool.
Where can I get those? Also, are they as bright on the road surface?
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Where can I get those? Also, are they as bright on the road surface?
In this thread there is a link to what I got. I bought them from Amazon. I can dig up the actual links if you want. I need to get some time to do a proper review.
There is also a pic of the road. I'd say the OE's were brighter in that the hotspot was pretty defined BUT they left huge dark areas that weren't lit up. Like everything between the hot spot and the front of the Jeep on the outsides. The new lights don't really have a hot spot but light up a lot more of the road. The road pic is a little dark but it gives you an idea of what they're like.
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Well I ordered mine let you know what I think. Had been looking and the Amazon price was the best. If they do not work out I wanted that style of Housing to use for HID's so I did not blind others.
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Well I ordered mine let you know what I think. Had been looking and the Amazon price was the best. If they do not work out I wanted that style of Housing to use for HID's so I did not blind others.
what i read is that you'll blind others if you use a reflector and not a projector with HIDs (or might be mixing things up and could be they're not approved for use with reflectors, can't remember exactly which).
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The main piece is HID's need a shield in front of the bulb, many factory
HID units have a shutter that blocks the light on low beam and opens up on high beam....
Regular H4 units don,t have the shiled to prevent the raw light from coming out and creating glare.
Just my 1 cent worth...
Dave
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Well I got the Bulbs but the New Housings were canceled by Amazon cause they are not on Back Order with no ship date available. So turned to my old Favorite of Summit hope to get them by Friday.
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Well I got the lights and put them in. I had already changed from sealed beam. Forgot I had did that, using H-4 Bulbs 55-60 just like I put in today. But the old Housings were really starting to turn gray and did not put out a good beam.
The new ones are good on low beam but there is a huge difference on High beam. Temped to go for a drive tonight just to see what they are like. :dance:
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The other day, I installed the 220amp load boss alternator I've had around for a while as well as the Cibie housings/Osram 70/65 bulbs and wiring harness I picked up recently. The square plastic brackets on the adjustment screws have all been shot for awhile. Have some more of those screws/brackets on order, so my install is heavy on duct tape for the time being...
The low beam output is pretty good. High beam looks like it'll stretch down the road a ways, but will have to test that when have more time.
Few feet from a white cinderblock wall, low/high
http://<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/qoFERBvky2I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
low beams
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/NMIaXLmARLo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
high beams
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/RdF7_Jl3daY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
low/high street parking
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/AkpnwUHRA1E" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
low/high driving residential street
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/rucyNsMfq6g" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
new alt installed
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Ri34_uVAuNo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
current duct tape & "chicken wire" install; harness shown
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/qNw7iA0bgmw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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(Jeffy, How do you get in to the comment html, so you can embed video? ...Me trying to do it early AM :crap:)
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Upgraded to the Hella E-code running hella 60/55W bulbs and the differance is awesome . i kicked my kc"s back up for off-road use only . so far no one flashing me ,the cut off is really great . thanks for the tread and info!! This was a quick upgrade with instant results. :beers:
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Upgraded to the Hella E-code running hella 60/55W bulbs and the differance is awesome . i kicked my kc"s back up for off-road use only . so far no one flashing me ,the cut off is really great . thanks for the tread and info!! This was a quick upgrade with instant results. :beers:
Yeah, they are really nice. I'm thinking about changing my AUX lights around because of it. I might run my 6" Cebie ION's instead of my PIAA since I don't need driving lights anymore.
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(Jeffy, How do you get in to the comment html, so you can embed video? ...Me trying to do it early AM :crap:)
For youtube, you grab the URL from the top. You'll get something like:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQtyZcBUk28&feature=g-user-a&list=PL4B0283A4A5E93E56&context=G2f90873UCGXQYbcTJ33Y5x3zz0X7dk2_A5d8SSruAksO3qLHgYhg
What you want is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQtyZcBUk28
Change it to http://www.youtube.com/v/MQtyZcBUk28
Then use (http://4bangerjp.com/forums/Themes/darkgreen/images/bbc/flash.gif) button.
http://www.youtube.com/v/MQtyZcBUk28
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Thanks :thumbsup:
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Same video as links from post on previous page. Intended to show headlight output w/Cibie E-Code Housings, 70/65 Osram bulbs, wiring harness, 220 amp alternator installed.
Few feet from a white cinderblock wall, low/high
http://www.youtube.com/v/qoFERBvky2I
Low beams
http://www.youtube.com/v/NMIaXLmARLo
High beams
http://www.youtube.com/v/RdF7_Jl3daY
Low/High street parking
http://www.youtube.com/v/AkpnwUHRA1E
Low/High driving residential street
http://www.youtube.com/v/rucyNsMfq6g
New alt. shows duct tape install, harness routing
http://www.youtube.com/v/Ri34_uVAuNo
I saw it written, think it was on a truck forum last year, to the effect that an aftermarket wiring harness that directly connects the battery to the headlights, w/the battery itself directly wired to, say, a high output alternator, is going to be sending 14+ volts to bulbs designed for 12 volts. So bulb lifespan, under these conditions, could decline significantly. Still have a few questions on this, though.
Recently received replacement headlight screws w/the square plastic mount brackets. So going get those in there. Haven't been flashed thus far; aimed them per the '94 Jeep manual pdf directions here
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I saw it written, think it was on a truck forum last year, to the effect that an aftermarket wiring harness that directly connects the battery to the headlights, w/the battery itself directly wired to, say, a high output alternator, is going to be sending 14+ volts to bulbs designed for 12 volts. So bulb lifespan, under these conditions, could decline significantly. Still have a few questions on this, though.
the voltage output is the same between a stock alternator and a high output one - it is constantly measured and adjusted by the PCM via the control wire (excitation voltage from PCM to alternator) so it won't make a difference to the life span of the bulbs. The difference between the 2 is the max current output, on a stock one if you have a lot of electrical "consumers" the voltage will drop more than with a high output one, but that would be on the low side and not the max voltage output which is the same between the 2 of them.
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Sharp, if we forget about the alternators, oem or high output, wouldn't there still be a higher-voltage issue due to the new wiring harness connected directly from battery to headlights that's conveying, unfettered, 14-some volts to bulbs designed for 12 volts?
Think I read somebody on that truck forum saying that the stock headlight wiring brought the voltage from the battery down to 12 or so by the time the electrical power reached the headlights.
Frankly, though, my meager electrical knowledge needs a refresher
I don't know what the Osram 70/65 bulbs are designed to run at, voltage-wise. Stock bulbs are 60/55 watts and the advice was to run a harness if you were to go higher than that. Was advised that some good bulbs for the kind of driving I mentioned were the Osram 70/65s; wiring harness was recommended given their higher than stock wattage.
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Sharp, if we forget about the alternators, oem or high output, wouldn't there still be a higher-voltage issue due to the new wiring harness connected directly from battery to headlights that's conveying, unfettered, 14-some volts to bulbs designed for 12 volts?
Think I read somebody on that truck forum saying that the stock headlight wiring brought the voltage from the battery down to 12 or so by the time the electrical power reached the headlights.
Frankly, though, my meager electrical knowledge needs a refresher
I don't know what the Osram 70/65 bulbs are designed to run at, voltage-wise. Stock bulbs are 60/55 watts and the advice was to run a harness if you were to go higher than that. Was advised that some good bulbs for the kind of driving I mentioned were the Osram 70/65s; wiring harness was recommended given their higher than stock wattage.
the reason you replace the harness is the current and not the voltage, the wire sizing is based on wire diameter and the linear resistivity, the smaller the diameter the higher the ohm/meter or ohm/foot rating (and also related to material, different materials have different specific linear resistivity), what that means is that a smaller diameter wire of the same length compared to a larger diameter would have a higher resistivity which results in a higher voltage drop on the wiring itself (Voltage=Current x Resistivity, Resistivity in this case would be the ohm/foot rating times the length of the wire), so a wire sized for 3 feet at a certain current would have a smaller diameter than a wire sized for the same current but 100 feet long. Your bulbs would still be sized for the same voltage, you just need proper wiring to avoid voltage drop and ultimately melting the insulation and/or starting a fire in more extreme cases (like using 24ga wire for 100Amp current). But if you're thinking if the same bulb will last longer at 6v compared to 12v then you're right, it will, it just won't be as bright. Automotive bulbs are designed to run at the voltage output of the alternator and not the 12v "rating", it's never 12v even with the engine shut off (would be more like 12.3 to 12.6 for a good working battery). the 12v rating is generic, you need higher voltage at the alternator so the battery will charge (so the current flows from the alternator into the battery, theoretical current flow is from a higher voltage potential to a lower potential).
EDIT: the harness replacement would involve some relays i believe, that's related to the light switch which was rated at a lower current, same idea as with the wiring, the switch has a lower rating that what the current with the larger bulbs would be.
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Still thinking on what Sharp said...
------------------
The last video -- 2 my comments back, this thread -- is mislabeled. Should be "new alternator." There's another video that shows the harness routing; need to identify that one and put it up when get a chance.
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See what you're saying, Sharp.
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See what you're saying, Sharp.
what do you mean?
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the reason you replace the harness is the current and not the voltage, the wire sizing is based on wire diameter and the linear resistivity, the smaller the diameter the higher the ohm/meter or ohm/foot rating (and also related to material, different materials have different specific linear resistivity), what that means is that a smaller diameter wire of the same length compared to a larger diameter would have a higher resistivity which results in a higher voltage drop on the wiring itself (Voltage=Current x Resistivity, Resistivity in this case would be the ohm/foot rating times the length of the wire), so a wire sized for 3 feet at a certain current would have a smaller diameter than a wire sized for the same current but 100 feet long. Your bulbs would still be sized for the same voltage, you just need proper wiring to avoid voltage drop and ultimately melting the insulation and/or starting a fire in more extreme cases (like using 24ga wire for 100Amp current). But if you're thinking if the same bulb will last longer at 6v compared to 12v then you're right, it will, it just won't be as bright. Automotive bulbs are designed to run at the voltage output of the alternator and not the 12v "rating", it's never 12v even with the engine shut off (would be more like 12.3 to 12.6 for a good working battery). the 12v rating is generic, you need higher voltage at the alternator so the battery will charge (so the current flows from the alternator into the battery, theoretical current flow is from a higher voltage potential to a lower potential).
EDIT: the harness replacement would involve some relays i believe, that's related to the light switch which was rated at a lower current, same idea as with the wiring, the switch has a lower rating that what the current with the larger bulbs would be.
Regarding what you wrote above.
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Regarding what you wrote above.
what about it? which part you disagree with? i said a lot in there.
You're not really saying anything, make a statement if you want to make a point otherwise it's idle
here's a tip for you (focus on #1) (EDIT: and #2)
de·bate
[dih-beyt] Show IPA noun, verb, -bat·ed, -bat·ing.
noun
1. a discussion, as of a public question in an assembly, involving opposing viewpoints: a debate in the Senate on farm price supports.
2. a formal contest in which the affirmative and negative sides of a proposition are advocated by opposing speakers.
3. deliberation; consideration.
4. Archaic . strife; contention.
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SOmebody was looking for a place to buy Cibie. Just found this place and they have what I wanted one for my HD.
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html
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SOmebody was looking for a place to buy Cibie. Just found this place and they have what I wanted one for my HD.
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html
He's about the only guy who sells them.
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what about it? which part you disagree with? i said a lot in there.
You're not really saying anything, make a statement if you want to make a point otherwise it's idle
here's a tip for you (focus on #1) (EDIT: and #2)
de·bate
[dih-beyt] Show IPA noun, verb, -bat·ed, -bat·ing.
noun
1. a discussion, as of a public question in an assembly, involving opposing viewpoints: a debate in the Senate on farm price supports.
2. a formal contest in which the affirmative and negative sides of a proposition are advocated by opposing speakers.
3. deliberation; consideration.
4. Archaic . strife; contention.
I didn't disagree with anything you wrote in the comment I highlighted in my previous comment. I did take some time to comprehend it all -- "Still thinking on what Sharp said." Not sure what you're getting at Sharp ??? Heck, I even gave you a + the other day for the explanation...here's a minus of the two-finger variety :twofingers:
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I didn't disagree with anything you wrote in the comment I highlighted in my previous comment. I did take some time to comprehend it all -- "Still thinking on what Sharp said." Not sure what you're getting at Sharp ??? Heck, I even gave you a + the other day for the explanation...here's a minus of the two-finger variety :twofingers:
i wasn't getting to anything other than wanting a clear explanation ("what do you mean?" was that), I still don't understand what you meant - I'm sorry i was not on the same wavelength as you, i understand the fingers thing and I will leave at that so we're even if you feel i was off-base and just so you know i don't mind if you have a different view that is explained clearly (that's what i was getting at).
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Well, the low beam on one of my Osram 70/65 bulbs went out last night. My Osram Bulbs are a grand total of maybe 9-10 months old and -- liberal estimate -- have maybe 30 nights/30-40 hours worth of use. Bulbs worked great when they both...worked. Bit dissapointed.
Am probably going to give Hella or IPF bulbs a go instead, rather than order another set of the Osrams right off the bat.
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my Fat Boys have lasted since I installed them...almost 5 years ago?? Have been used a lot since this is my daily driver.
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my Fat Boys have lasted since I installed them...almost 5 years ago?? Have been used a lot since this is my daily driver.
The key is to not put fingerprints on the bulbs. Also condensation as well as water will burn them up in no time.
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The key is to not put fingerprints on the bulbs. Also condensation as well as water will burn them up in no time.
Not getting fingerprints on the bulbs is a direction I followed to the letter during the install late last year.
I actually ordered a set of the clear IPF FatBoys last night, Moz. Good to hear they've lasted for you.
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Was checking fluids last night and was surprised to see the harness wires for the right headlight and the left headlight in apparent contact near the back side of the right headlight. Photos don't show it too well.
(http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg271/leeiaccoca/Harness1.jpg)
(http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg271/leeiaccoca/Harness2.jpg)
What do you guys think? Any potential for inadvertent harness wire contact to kill the low beam in the right bulb?
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Pretty unlikely there was a short. The insulation and connectors seem to be in good shape.
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Anybody tried
http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=92027&langId=-1
They also make the round ones too.
The one downside $230.00
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Anybody tried
http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=92027&langId=-1
They also make the round ones too.
The one downside $230.00
I don't think they're worth it. You have play around with LED flashlights? They have a limited range unless you really bump up the lumen's compared to the same incandescent bulb. The other problem with many LED's is the fist full of flashlights effect. Instead of looking like one light you get a pattern that looks like a lot of smaller lights in one larger pattern.
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The Rigid style LED bars are insane, but way to pricey. I saw the ProComp ones at the 4wheelparts expo, pretty nice. So are the round LED headligh replacements. I was doubtful about the brightness, but after seeing some in person, most dont compare to an LED flashlight.
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This guy did some extensive testing and IIRC, wasn't impressed with them. Honestly for the price I can't see ever buying them over HID's. You could go through multiple lifetimes of H4's before ever breaking even with the LED's.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/headlight-shootout-1166827/
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hahaha, I was just looking at this one too. To be honest, they're not a bad option, but I really do like the LED bars more than anything. They look like the first gen ones where grumpy showed the newer reflector styled ones, which smooths out the pattern tremendously.
One Reflector
(http://www.truck-lite.com/wcsstore/tl/catalog/images/grap/fws/new/27450C-hr.jpg)
vs
Spots
(http://image.corvettefever.com/f/corvette-parts/worlds-first-7-round-12-volt-led-headlamp-shows-bright-possibilities/16068596/truck-lite-7-round-12-volt-led-headlamps.jpg)
And my favorite...
(http://www.cap-it.com/Resources/rigid-industries.jpeg)
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Was checking fluids last night and was surprised to see the harness wires for the right headlight and the left headlight in apparent contact near the back side of the right headlight. Photos don't show it too well.
What do you guys think? Any potential for inadvertent harness wire contact to kill the low beam in the right bulb?
if there's a short there the fuse would go bust but the bulb won't be affected (although i'm not sure if you were asking if the bulb would die or if it was a reason it died, or if it was just a hazzard related question). you can bend that piece of metal btw, honestly i have yet to figure out it's purpose other than getting your hand to bleed when you do some work in the engine bay.
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I don't think they're worth it. You have play around with LED flashlights? They have a limited range unless you really bump up the lumen's compared to the same incandescent bulb. The other problem with many LED's is the fist full of flashlights effect. Instead of looking like one light you get a pattern that looks like a lot of smaller lights in one larger pattern.
Dave turns left and heads out into the weeds.....
I just bought a 2 D cell maglight flashlight, it has some claim like 300 meters of illumination...
(Insert me scepticle but it was on sale for 20 bucks and I couldn't find my other maglight... and I had a 20...)
The thing is insanely bright... Like burnt retina's bright... best hand light I own..
It really does illuminate out over 200 yards, at least it did on top of my rifle scope... :) the coyotes never knew what hit them...
Cheers
Dave
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I'm thinking of getting them...I mean, I just posted about how long my Fat Boys have lasted, so they are sure to blow out this weekend. :lol:
Seriously though...half the crap I buy for my rig is just to be different than the other ones out there. I don't drive at night a lot but I like the idea of the durability, whiteness, "kewl factor," etc...and I like the new style versus the multiple diode one that originally came out.
We'll see...tires are in and going on this week...my wallet will be a little light after that... :fitz:
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I got 2 of those Led lights that mount at the bottom of your windshield. they light the heck out of everything in front of you and draw way less amps than the old fashion day lighters. they aren't cheap but what is. don't know if i would change the normal headlights out to leds though
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Dave turns left and heads out into the weeds.....
I just bought a 2 D cell maglight flashlight, it has some claim like 300 meters of illumination...
(Insert me scepticle but it was on sale for 20 bucks and I couldn't find my other maglight... and I had a 20...)
The thing is insanely bright... Like burnt retina's bright... best hand light I own..
It really does illuminate out over 200 yards, at least it did on top of my rifle scope... :) the coyotes never knew what hit them...
Cheers
Dave
I picked this one up on sale at Batteries plus and I had a $10 coupon for about $9.
(http://www.rayovac.com/~/media/Rayovac/Images/Products/Lights/Work/DIYBEAMB.ashx?bc=white)
I flat blows away any other Flashlight I have that includes Streamlight. It has 2 power a High and low the low is better than any I have.
Model: DIYBEAM-B
Features and Benefits:
•High performance LEDs and 2 modes: 150 Lumens, 50 Lumens (energy saver)
•Beam distance: 350 meters, 195 meters (energy saver)
•Battery run time (alkaline batteries incl.): 20 hours, 78 hours (energy saver)
•15 Foot Drop Test Performance!
•Rubber head – shock absorbers
•Impact resisting internal engineering
•Designed for maximum durability + simplicity
•Switch on handle for ease of use
•IPX4 water resistant
•Lifetime guarantee
•(4) C Rayovac alkaline batteries included
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Anybody tried
http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=92027&langId=-1
They also make the round ones too.
The one downside $230.00
I saw these in person. They seem pretty bright, but there still was no lumen information in the literature or from what I can find. I don't know how much brighter they are over standard bulbs, but according to the litature, it exceeds the FMVSS-108 and VMVSS-108 for high and low beam performance. They look really nice too. I'd get these before an HID projection housings in a heart beat. Right now I have the Sylvania Performance Silverstar H6024s, which are very bright, but the LED's would rock. They also use about 7w for low and 14w for high.
I'll email Truck-Lite to get the Lumen. I imagine its around 1000 for low beams.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yXU3tOG11Ws/UHGeLeUwRKI/AAAAAAAAFDo/vruWCsOaxuE/s640/2012-10-06_11-12-07_769.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3Vu_N0GuyXQ/UHGeL8zqjnI/AAAAAAAAFDw/UuTnCbv3JF4/s640/2012-10-06_11-12-43_276.jpg)
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Problem with some of those is, A they are very expensive and B quite a few do not have a very good light bundle/ pattern. On top of that the lights lasting a whole lot longer isn't always true Led's can do some goofy stuff. Some of the leds can fail or go dim in the light basically rendering it useless, would really suck on a 300 dollar headlight
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Problem with some of those is, A they are very expensive and B quite a few do not have a very good light bundle/ pattern. On top of that the lights lasting a whole lot longer isn't always true Led's can do some goofy stuff. Some of the leds can fail or go dim in the light basically rendering it useless, would really suck on a 300 dollar headlight
Yeah...but their kewl....
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Kewl or not, 1350 lumens, 14 watts on high, the smooth projection, 3 year warranty, and American made - without the need for projectors or blinding oncoming traffic, I'm sold.
http://betterautomotivelighting.com/2012/06/07/phase-7-led-headlights-by-truck-lite/
(http://betterautomotivelighting.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/7roundcomparison.jpg)
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I still can't see spending $500 for headlights. $500 for AUX lights, maybe, but not headlights. The Phase 7's are Trucklite second generation LED's. Looks like they're better then the gen ones.
You've got to spend a lot of time driving on roads at night to make it worth it though. Offroad, you'll be using AUX lights more then the headlights anyway.
I bet those comparison pics are done with seal beams running on stock harness while the LED's are on a relay harness. I don't think they're that much better then a H4 conversion with Euro-spec lenses. Maybe if they were around $250-300 I'd consider them not at $450-500.
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Looks like photographer maybe used a tinted lens to shoot the oem lights in high/low. Or maybe, it was "let's get the worst pair of incandescent headlights we can find and shoot those."
I've seen birthday candles with a higher color temp than those stock headlights... :lol:
LEDs look good, though.
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I still can't see spending $500 for headlights. $500 for AUX lights, maybe, but not headlights. The Phase 7's are Trucklite second generation LED's. Looks like they're better then the gen ones.
You've got to spend a lot of time driving on roads at night to make it worth it though. Offroad, you'll be using AUX lights more then the headlights anyway.
I bet those comparison pics are done with seal beams running on stock harness while the LED's are on a relay harness. I don't think they're that much better then a H4 conversion with Euro-spec lenses. Maybe if they were around $250-300 I'd consider them not at $450-500.
I found them for $230.
Just found them cheaper.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Truck-Lite-27450C-Rectangular-LED-5X7-Hi-Low-Headlight-/370660847897?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item564d1bb119&vxp=mtr
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I found them for $230.
Just found them cheaper.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Truck-Lite-27450C-Rectangular-LED-5X7-Hi-Low-Headlight-/370660847897?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item564d1bb119&vxp=mtr
That's for a single light not a pair even though the picture suggests it's two.
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Sorry to join so late, but I will throw my two cents in.
I work second shift and drive home around midnight through some of Indiana's most rual deer infested roads. So safety seeing them was paramount.
I bought a pair of Cebies E codes from daniel stern.
I also upgraded my wiring, 10 gauge wires, ceramic connector housing, with relays.
I originally used the 75/65 OSRAM off road H4 bulbs.
First I did the wiring, the original headlight circuit now just controlls the relays and a direct path with heavy wires carries the current.
This had a profound effect with the stock sealed beams.
The cebie's are just amazing with their pattern and cutt off. Just like a solid line with no light above it on low, so no flashes from on coming drivers. Brights are every bit as good as the pictures above, maybe better, its hard to be subjective over pictures of lighting. Not only far out but side to side as well. A buddy has IPF ecodes in a cherokee(same housing style) and while they are good, the cebie's are better.
I did blow out (6 months) the high beams of the OSHRAM bulbs, Turned on the headlights 10 seconds after turning on so it was probably a voltage spike from the alternator not a headlight problem but I did go to a sylvania bulb, cant recall exactly but was the second from the top in their line up. Fact of life with halogens, brighter the bulb, smaller the filiment, shorter the life. But it is still excellent with the great reflectors that cebie is known for.
I did update my alternator to a 136amp from a grand cherokee (think 96') after the lights blew out, seems like my charging system is more even now.
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Sorry to join so late, but I will throw my two cents in.
I work second shift and drive home around midnight through some of Indiana's most rual deer infested roads. So safety seeing them was paramount.
I bought a pair of Cebies E codes from daniel stern.
I also upgraded my wiring, 10 gauge wires, ceramic connector housing, with relays.
I originally used the 75/65 OSRAM off road H4 bulbs.
First I did the wiring, the original headlight circuit now just controlls the relays and a direct path with heavy wires carries the current.
This had a profound effect with the stock sealed beams.
The cebie's are just amazing with their pattern and cutt off. Just like a solid line with no light above it on low, so no flashes from on coming drivers. Brights are every bit as good as the pictures above, maybe better, its hard to be subjective over pictures of lighting. Not only far out but side to side as well. A buddy has IPF ecodes in a cherokee(same housing style) and while they are good, the cebie's are better.
I did blow out (6 months) the high beams of the OSHRAM bulbs, Turned on the headlights 10 seconds after turning on so it was probably a voltage spike from the alternator not a headlight problem but I did go to a sylvania bulb, cant recall exactly but was the second from the top in their line up. Fact of life with halogens, brighter the bulb, smaller the filiment, shorter the life. But it is still excellent with the great reflectors that cebie is known for.
I did update my alternator to a 136amp from a grand cherokee (think 96') after the lights blew out, seems like my charging system is more even now.
Had the same setup w/Cibie housings, Osrams 70/65, harness. Using a pair of the clear IPF Fatboys in the Cibie housings now and they work good in low/high. If I get a few years out of the IPF bulbs, that'll be good enough. Still seems like the Osram 70/65s were putting out maybe not more light, but light that was closer to daylight 5000K (and they weren't tinted blue or any of that).
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but...the LED's are so cool... :whistle:
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but...the LED's are so cool... :whistle:
(http://www.cascade4wd.com/store/images/detailed/3/LiteDOT_1.jpg) :koolaid: :wall: :trollface:
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I was considering LED taillights http://www.quadratec.com/products/55213_910X_PG.htm (http://www.quadratec.com/products/55213_910X_PG.htm) that are set to work, flash normally, out of the box.
Of course, they are exposed like the originals, so more pain if one gets bashed somehow (not looking to buy tail-light guards).
Still the grill signal bulbs and side markers. I buy LED bulbs for those, do you think they'd require separate modification to signal at the same stock tempo as with the LED taillights?
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you need a ballast resistor most likely
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you need a ballast resistor most likely
It's a lot easier to just use a blinker relay that doesn't rely on resistance. I'm mentioned before that the Hazard blinker is a great substitute for the original blinker relay. Cost is something like $4 or just swap them in the meantime.
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It's a lot easier to just use a blinker relay that doesn't rely on resistance. I'm mentioned before that the Hazard blinker is a great substitute for the original blinker relay. Cost is something like $4 or just swap them in the meantime.
You usually need them if you ever connect a trailer too - unless they have LED tail lights.
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The newer relay is nice since it is the same one that shipped with the Jeep but already modified to work with either incandescent or LED lights.