Topic: Headlights

[chrisfranklin]

(Jeffy, How do you get in to the comment html, so you can embed video?  ...Me trying to do it early AM )

[robertsiii]

Upgraded to the Hella E-code  running hella  60/55W bulbs and the differance is awesome . i kicked my kc"s back up for off-road use only . so far no one flashing me  ,the cut off is really great . thanks for the tread and info!! This was a quick upgrade with instant results.      

[Jeffy]

Upgraded to the Hella E-code  running hella  60/55W bulbs and the differance is awesome . i kicked my kc"s back up for off-road use only . so far no one flashing me  ,the cut off is really great . thanks for the tread and info!! This was a quick upgrade with instant results.     

Yeah, they are really nice.  I'm thinking about changing my AUX lights around because of it.  I might run my 6" Cebie ION's instead of my PIAA since I don't need driving lights anymore.

[Jeffy]

(Jeffy, How do you get in to the comment html, so you can embed video?  ...Me trying to do it early AM )

For youtube, you grab the URL from the top.  You'll get something like:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQtyZcBUk28&feature=g-user-a&list=PL4B0283A4A5E93E56&context=G2f90873UCGXQYbcTJ33Y5x3zz0X7dk2_A5d8SSruAksO3qLHgYhg

What you want is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQtyZcBUk28

Change it to http://www.youtube.com/v/MQtyZcBUk28

Then use button.

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/MQtyZcBUk28" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="bbc_link bbc_flash_disabled new_win">http://www.youtube.com/v/MQtyZcBUk28</a>

[chrisfranklin]

Thanks 

[chrisfranklin]

Same video as links from post on previous page.  Intended to show headlight output w/Cibie E-Code Housings, 70/65 Osram bulbs, wiring harness, 220 amp alternator installed.  


Few feet from a white cinderblock wall, low/high
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/qoFERBvky2I" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="bbc_link bbc_flash_disabled new_win">http://www.youtube.com/v/qoFERBvky2I</a>

Low beams
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/NMIaXLmARLo" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="bbc_link bbc_flash_disabled new_win">http://www.youtube.com/v/NMIaXLmARLo</a>

High beams
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/RdF7_Jl3daY" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="bbc_link bbc_flash_disabled new_win">http://www.youtube.com/v/RdF7_Jl3daY</a>

Low/High street parking
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/AkpnwUHRA1E" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="bbc_link bbc_flash_disabled new_win">http://www.youtube.com/v/AkpnwUHRA1E</a>

Low/High driving residential street
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/rucyNsMfq6g" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="bbc_link bbc_flash_disabled new_win">http://www.youtube.com/v/rucyNsMfq6g</a>

New alt. shows duct tape install, harness routing
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/Ri34_uVAuNo" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="bbc_link bbc_flash_disabled new_win">http://www.youtube.com/v/Ri34_uVAuNo</a>

I saw it written, think it was on a truck forum last year, to the effect that an aftermarket wiring harness that directly connects the battery to the headlights, w/the battery itself directly wired to, say, a high output alternator, is going to be sending 14+ volts to bulbs designed for 12 volts.  So bulb lifespan, under these conditions, could decline significantly. Still have a few questions on this, though.  

Recently received replacement headlight screws w/the square plastic mount brackets.  So going get those in there.  Haven't been flashed thus far; aimed them per the '94 Jeep manual pdf directions here

[sharpxmen]

I saw it written, think it was on a truck forum last year, to the effect that an aftermarket wiring harness that directly connects the battery to the headlights, w/the battery itself directly wired to, say, a high output alternator, is going to be sending 14+ volts to bulbs designed for 12 volts.  So bulb lifespan, under these conditions, could decline significantly. Still have a few questions on this, though.  

the voltage output is the same between a stock alternator and a high output one - it is constantly measured and adjusted by the PCM via the control wire (excitation voltage from PCM to alternator) so it won't make a difference to the life span of the bulbs. The difference between the 2 is the max current output, on a stock one if you have a lot of electrical "consumers" the voltage will drop more than with a high output one, but that would be on the low side and not the max voltage output which is the same between the 2 of them.

[chrisfranklin]

Sharp, if we forget about the alternators, oem or high output, wouldn't there still be a higher-voltage issue due to the new wiring harness connected directly from battery to headlights that's conveying, unfettered, 14-some volts to bulbs designed for 12 volts? 

Think I read somebody on that truck forum saying that the stock headlight wiring brought the voltage from the battery down to 12 or so by the time the electrical power reached the headlights. 

Frankly, though,  my meager electrical knowledge needs a refresher

I don't know what the Osram 70/65 bulbs are designed to run at, voltage-wise.  Stock bulbs are 60/55 watts and the advice was to run a harness if you were to go higher than that.  Was advised that some good bulbs for the kind of driving I mentioned were the Osram 70/65s; wiring harness was recommended given their higher than stock wattage.

[sharpxmen]

Sharp, if we forget about the alternators, oem or high output, wouldn't there still be a higher-voltage issue due to the new wiring harness connected directly from battery to headlights that's conveying, unfettered, 14-some volts to bulbs designed for 12 volts?  

Think I read somebody on that truck forum saying that the stock headlight wiring brought the voltage from the battery down to 12 or so by the time the electrical power reached the headlights.  

Frankly, though,  my meager electrical knowledge needs a refresher

I don't know what the Osram 70/65 bulbs are designed to run at, voltage-wise.  Stock bulbs are 60/55 watts and the advice was to run a harness if you were to go higher than that.  Was advised that some good bulbs for the kind of driving I mentioned were the Osram 70/65s; wiring harness was recommended given their higher than stock wattage.

the reason you replace the harness is the current and not the voltage, the wire sizing is based on wire diameter and the linear resistivity, the smaller the diameter the higher the ohm/meter or ohm/foot rating (and also related to material, different materials have different specific linear resistivity), what that means is that a smaller diameter wire of the same length compared to a larger diameter would have a higher resistivity which results in a higher voltage drop on the wiring itself (Voltage=Current x Resistivity, Resistivity in this case would be the ohm/foot rating times the length of the wire), so a wire sized for 3 feet at a certain current would have a smaller diameter than a wire sized for the same current but 100 feet long. Your bulbs would still be sized for the same voltage, you just need proper wiring to avoid voltage drop and ultimately melting the insulation and/or starting a fire in more extreme cases (like using 24ga wire for 100Amp current). But if you're thinking if the same bulb will last longer at 6v compared to 12v then you're right, it will, it just won't be as bright. Automotive bulbs are designed to run at the voltage output of the alternator and not the 12v "rating", it's never 12v even with the engine shut off (would be more like 12.3 to 12.6 for a good working battery). the 12v rating is generic, you need higher voltage at the alternator so the battery will charge (so the current flows from the alternator into the battery, theoretical current flow is from a higher voltage potential to a lower potential).

EDIT: the harness replacement would involve some relays i believe, that's related to the light switch which was rated at a lower current, same idea as with the wiring, the switch has a lower rating that what the current with the larger bulbs would be.

[chrisfranklin]

Still thinking on what Sharp said...

------------------

The last video -- 2 my comments back, this thread -- is mislabeled.  Should be "new alternator."  There's another video that shows the harness routing; need to identify that one and put it up when get a chance.

[chrisfranklin]

See what you're saying, Sharp. 

[sharpxmen]

See what you're saying, Sharp. 

what do you mean?

[chrisfranklin]

the reason you replace the harness is the current and not the voltage, the wire sizing is based on wire diameter and the linear resistivity, the smaller the diameter the higher the ohm/meter or ohm/foot rating (and also related to material, different materials have different specific linear resistivity), what that means is that a smaller diameter wire of the same length compared to a larger diameter would have a higher resistivity which results in a higher voltage drop on the wiring itself (Voltage=Current x Resistivity, Resistivity in this case would be the ohm/foot rating times the length of the wire), so a wire sized for 3 feet at a certain current would have a smaller diameter than a wire sized for the same current but 100 feet long. Your bulbs would still be sized for the same voltage, you just need proper wiring to avoid voltage drop and ultimately melting the insulation and/or starting a fire in more extreme cases (like using 24ga wire for 100Amp current). But if you're thinking if the same bulb will last longer at 6v compared to 12v then you're right, it will, it just won't be as bright. Automotive bulbs are designed to run at the voltage output of the alternator and not the 12v "rating", it's never 12v even with the engine shut off (would be more like 12.3 to 12.6 for a good working battery). the 12v rating is generic, you need higher voltage at the alternator so the battery will charge (so the current flows from the alternator into the battery, theoretical current flow is from a higher voltage potential to a lower potential).

EDIT: the harness replacement would involve some relays i believe, that's related to the light switch which was rated at a lower current, same idea as with the wiring, the switch has a lower rating that what the current with the larger bulbs would be.

Regarding what you wrote above.

[sharpxmen]

Regarding what you wrote above.

what about it? which part you disagree with? i said a lot in there.
You're not really saying anything, make a statement if you want to make a point otherwise it's idle

here's a tip for you (focus on #1) (EDIT: and #2)


de·bate
   [dih-beyt] Show IPA noun, verb, -bat·ed, -bat·ing.

noun
1. a discussion, as of a public question in an assembly, involving opposing viewpoints: a debate in the Senate on farm price supports.
2. a formal contest in which the affirmative and negative sides of a proposition are advocated by opposing speakers.
3. deliberation; consideration.
4. Archaic . strife; contention.  

[grumpygy]

SOmebody was looking for a place to buy  Cibie.  Just found this place and they have what I wanted one for my HD.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html