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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: enginethatcould on January 27, 2011, 06:04:20 PM
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The story of my jeep and I has been a slow one (If it was a movie, you would demand a refund). I have done everything at least twice to get wha i wanted. The vision I have for my jeep has taken a long time to bring to life, but I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Don't get me wrong, the light is still far way, but at least I can see it. All this has brought me to an axle swap. This is the first thing that I plan to only do once. In my current possession is an isuzu rodeo d44 rear which I have stripped and preped for an install. I have been looking for a waggy front to match but have has no luck. This has got me thinking of either going 3/4 or 1 tons. My only concern is will the 4 popper be able to handle the added weight. Keep in mind that I will have a turbo setup and will want to run a max tire size of 38". Offrading is not that great where I am currently living, but I want to be able to tow it to texas in the summer to my father-in-laws hill country property. So what do you guys think? D44's or go big? All opinions appreciated! Thanks
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38's? Dana 60 and 14Bolt rear.
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here is what I have found in the Houston area;
http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/2182223537.html
http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/2180042466.html
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It's all about the gearing. You would need 5.38-5.89 for 38's. I did the 37's and 5.38 for a couple years. It wasn't to bad. Texas is pretty flat so if you drive it alot on the FWY it's livable.
On your CL finds just make sure the front is a driver drop. Some of the older Dodge's had pass. drop fronts.
I have had good luck with my D44's but I have chromo's all the way around and premium U joints in the front. D44's would work depending on your driving style.
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here is what I have found in the Houston area;
http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/2182223537.html
http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/2180042466.html
Do you want the tires sticking out really far or under the body somewhat. The best setup is probably a '78-79 Ford F350 D60 front and rear. But a 14 Bolt rear is usually a bit cheaper and easier to find then a 60.
I'd put the cutoff for Dana 44's at 38". You could beef up the D44 but then it's probably going to cost more then a D60/14. If you were going to go with 35-36" then 44's would be good as the D60 needs to be shaved or else you'll lose a lot of clearance at the pig. IIRC, you can shave an inch off without too much trouble.
I have a few friends who run 44's with 37's and 38's but they had the axles when they were at 35's and moved up. Some have broken axles though.
Gearing wise, shouldn't be a problem if you gear low enough. I'd go 5:89's for sure. BUT your acceleration will probably suffer with all of the mass.
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Why the 38" tires if your type of wheeling doesn't dictate it?
I'd still use the Isuzu rear d44 and narrow a Ford 3/4t front d44 to Waggy width. There's a local 4wd shop here that will narrow my housing for $300 but I'm going to do it myself. You then end up with thicker axletubes than a Waggy, a high pinion diff, and the ability to run off-the-shelf Waggy axleshafts.
Then stick with 35"/36" tires.
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Also at that size tire, consider that axles aren't the only concern.
The AX-5 tranny behind a 4 cyl will not last long with a turbo 4 cyl and 38"+ tires--even with 5.38 gears and a 4:1 transfer case.
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Also at that size tire, consider that axles aren't the only concern.
The AX-5 tranny behind a 4 cyl will not last long with a turbo 4 cyl and 38"+ tires--even with 5.38 gears and a 4:1 transfer case.
I have already done the nv3550 conversion
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Why the 38" tires if your type of wheeling doesn't dictate it?
I'd still use the Isuzu rear d44 and narrow a Ford 3/4t front d44 to Waggy width. There's a local 4wd shop here that will narrow my housing for $300 but I'm going to do it myself. You then end up with thicker axletubes than a Waggy, a high pinion diff, and the ability to run off-the-shelf Waggy axleshafts.
Then stick with 35"/36" tires.
I want to run a max size of 38's, my current wheeling honestly justifies a stock jeep as offroading is somewhat nonexistent. My father in law is located near the San marcos area with several acres of mild to mid rocks and hills that I drool over everytime we visit.
I had looked at the 100 dollar man website and would like to
Run decommissioned military tires due to the price.
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Those ex-military tires are ubber stiff and were designed to be run on huge diesel Hummers that have a loaded weight of more than 3x as much as a 4 cyl TJ.
If you haven't done it already, find out if the tires even get a bulge on a TJ when aired down to 3-5 psi.
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38's? Dana 60 and 14Bolt rear.
I second this motion, 38's are monstrous
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Placing reliability in first place, any tire larger than 35" should be run with axles larger than Dana 44s. Dana 60s, 14 bolts, Ford Super Duty axles, etc.
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Placing reliability in first place, any tire larger than 35" should be run with axles larger than Dana 44s. Dana 60s, 14 bolts, Ford Super Duty axles, etc.
WOW you are willing to give up allot of performance in the name of reliability. I run 34's and 36's on my Jeep w/ a hp30 and 8.8, I have only ever spit the caps on the u-joints and now there tacked in that shouldn't be an issue anymore, and I often think I should have kept the 35 instead of the 8.8 as the 8.8 is a pig. I wouldn't run 1-ton axles w/ anything less than 40" tires and a V-8, I would rather sink money into beefing up a 44 w/ chromo's and a truss, this would be a realiable set-up on 38's, and I know a few guys running this way.
I personally follow the thought that if an axle doesn't break once in a while, when on hard trails, you have over built, making the rig heavier, killing ground clearence and losing capability. How often a breakage happens is personal opinion is once a month acceptable, or once a year, or once every five years, and the answer to that will be a big factor into how you should build a rig. Of course if you say never breaking is the only acceptable answer, then you better be running 1 tons and 31's.
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Wow I'm new to this but everything you just said goes against everything I have been told which is absolutely never go above a 33 on a dana 35 and you said you wish you had stayed with the dana 35 over changing it out and you are running 36s. Now I'm way confused.
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Wow I'm new to this but everything you just said goes against everything I have been told which is absolutely never go above a 33 on a dana 35 and you said you wish you had stayed with the dana 35 over changing it out and you are running 36s. Now I'm way confused.
I broke both D35 shafts at once when I was on 31's. The D35 is a turd and should be :crap: flushed from everyones Jeep who takes it offroad IMO. There are people who have wheeled it hard and not had any issues but they are time bombs IMO.
I would put reliability over performance. You can always drive home, even if it takes a bit longer. D44's are pretty safe up to 37's. I have seen people on larger tires with the D44's. It depends on you much you invest in them and how you drive and the terrain you run.
The steering really needs to be upgraded with a tire much over 35-37. The stock box needs some help with a big tire.
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Wow I'm new to this but everything you just said goes against everything I have been told which is absolutely never go above a 33 on a dana 35 and you said you wish you had stayed with the dana 35 over changing it out and you are running 36s. Now I'm way confused.
I've wheeled w/ allot of rigs and unless your doing something stupid or you have old shafts the d35 is a nice axle up to 33's stock and 35/36 with some upgrades. The nice thing about the 35 is it's cheap to start wuth and cheap to get replacement and upgraded parts for, it's also smaller than most axles so you don't lose ground clearence. Usually if you search on Jeep sites you'll get all kinds of people saying how bad the 35 is, but if you go to sites for Rangers they are swapping in the 35 to replace the 7.5 as an upgrade and they love them as all the Jeep guys throw them away. You will also find a large number of s-10s when they go SAS in the front going to 35's in the rear.
FourbangerYJ, what were you doing when you broke both shafts? also how old and abused were the shafts? I've seen this happen once, and it was a locked axle on 33's and he was beating on it trying to drag a broke Jeep up a steep hill, doing the old back up and hit the end of the strap hard to try and get the broke rig moving. Only other axle I have ever seen break both shafts at once, was a budy of mine being stupid w/ donut spare tires on the back of his YJ w/ a waggy 44 rear axle, he enjoyed doing burnouts and donuts on the donut spares till he broke the shafts.
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FourbangerYJ, what were you doing when you broke both shafts? also how old and abused were the shafts? I've seen this happen once, and it was a locked axle on 33's and he was beating on it trying to drag a broke Jeep up a steep hill, doing the old back up and hit the end of the strap hard to try and get the broke rig moving. Only other axle I have ever seen break both shafts at once, was a budy of mine being stupid w/ donut spare tires on the back of his YJ w/ a waggy 44 rear axle, he enjoyed doing burnouts and donuts on the donut spares till he broke the shafts.
We were in the snow about a foot deep. No rocks it was on a gravel road. We stopped for a bit. Got back in and started the motor. Let out the clutch and boom. I was running a Lockright, 2nd run with it. The shafts were maybe 2 years old.
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I've got no love for the D35 but I did run a Detroit locked one with 35's that I beat on until I swapped out the 2.5L
As for the 8.8" I have to agree- I had one at the house and couldn't give up that kind of clearance- traded it for the above mentioned D35 and worked the Jeep until I blew up the motor.
My next axle was a Tacoma with 2wd 5 lug shafts- same clearance as the D35 but a lot stronger axle. It's been worked up to 36" IROK's and only my son has been able to break anything in it (he could break an anvil with a rubber mallet). Swapped the factory 4.56 for some OEM that were cryo treated and never looked back
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So if i stay under 38s I should be fine with the d44. I think that is route I will plan to take unless I come across a steal on 1 tons. If not, I guess I could always upgrade weak parts and truss it.
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So if i stay under 38s I should be fine with the d44. I think that is route I will plan to take unless I come across a steal on 1 tons. If not, I guess I could always upgrade weak parts and truss it.
Which tire in a 38 are you looking at? There are not many in that size.
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Which tire in a 38 are you looking at? There are not many in that size.
Not so much a specific tire or size. I want to be able to run a max of 38s. A friend of mine gave me a set of very worn tsl 37s. I will need to replace them but it gives me a chance to save a little coin before purchasing.
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I've wheeled w/ allot of rigs and unless your doing something stupid or you have old shafts the d35 is a nice axle up to 33's stock and 35/36 with some upgrades. The nice thing about the 35 is it's cheap to start wuth and cheap to get replacement and upgraded parts for, it's also smaller than most axles so you don't lose ground clearence. Usually if you search on Jeep sites you'll get all kinds of people saying how bad the 35 is, but if you go to sites for Rangers they are swapping in the 35 to replace the 7.5 as an upgrade and they love them as all the Jeep guys throw them away. You will also find a large number of s-10s when they go SAS in the front going to 35's in the rear.
Disagree completely, before i got smart i completely busted a d35 pulling out from a stop light with 31's spent a good bit on rebuilding it, got confident put 33's on it, and 1 1/2 year rebuild i busted the spider gear once again pulling out slowly from a stop light...
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Is now currently having a ford 8.8 welded in and some 4.88 gears :thumbsup: has taken a little longer than i hoped though :confused:
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Something with that just sounds wrong to me. I am new to this but I have had a lot of friends with jeeps with 31s and 33s on them and I have 31s on this one that I bought from a friend and they have had 31s since he bought it new and never had an issue in 12 years and a lot of moderate wheeling. Plus I hve heard all over the place that the 35 is fine for up to 33s with no prob yet you busted it on 31s and a year and a half later after rebuilding did it agan on 33s?
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Disagree completely, before i got smart i completely busted a d35 pulling out from a stop light with 31's spent a good bit on rebuilding it, got confident put 33's on it, and 1 1/2 year rebuild i busted the spider gear once again pulling out slowly from a stop light...
Do you drop the clutch when you start off or what dude? I'm trying to figure out how you could have done that....twice. Did you bend your axle housing?
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nope, just pulled out... was a cop next to me the 2nd time so definitely no clutch popping. one time was the just the gears, other messed up the housing and gears
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i busted the gears too, they failed while driving on the hwy, but i blame it on the shop that replaced my pinion seal, probably not setting the preload correctly.
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Mine was bought with 100,000 miles on it, so it is very possible that someone did a half ass repair at some other point in time, but my personal experience, and that of any jeeper i have talked to says trash the d35, it is the weak link on your rig
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Typically busted spiders are caused by the axle housing flexing. The D35 flexes a lot. The D35's are a bit of a crap shot. I know some people haven't had any problems with 33's and have even pushed their luck with 35's. Then you get other guy's who run 31's and they break instantly.
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Typically busted spiders are caused by the axle housing flexing. The D35 flexes a lot. The D35's are a bit of a crap shot. I know some people haven't had any problems with 33's and have even pushed their luck with 35's. Then you get other guy's who run 31's and they break instantly.
Yeah, a buddy of mine used to have a modified 4.0 with heavy 33's and he wheeled the crap out of it and didn't have any problems. I think the trick with the bigger tires is to be reaaallly reaaallly gentle on the clutch which he was. I have trouble believing you could twist any axleshaft if you burn the clutch.
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3 different ring gear sets and 3 different lockers in the D35, and I have a 44 with the ARB now.
The 35 gave up on the street 3 times. Finally figured out the housing was flexing like 2" under hard acceleration.
I built a bar that went across the back of the axle assembly and from the center of the assembly had a piece with movable parts that were a teltale for the flex...
I'm in the ban the 35c camp....
BTW the first time it blew was with the ARB open and I had the C-clip eliminators kit...
Dave
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3 different ring gear sets and 3 different lockers in the D35, and I have a 44 with the ARB now.
The 35 gave up on the street 3 times. Finally figured out the housing was flexing like 2" under hard acceleration.
I built a bar that went across the back of the axle assembly and from the center of the assembly had a piece with movable parts that were a teltale for the flex...
I'm in the ban the 35c camp....
BTW the first time it blew was with the ARB open and I had the C-clip eliminators kit...
Dave
The good old days when they still made the C-Clip eliminators. I'm sure a lot of people don't even know they made those.
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I actually have a buddy who runs 37s on his d35 and has been for years now. Granted, this jeep has never been offroad every. I would never do this even if my jeep was a mall crawler.
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Why the 38" tires if your type of wheeling doesn't dictate it?
I'd still use the Isuzu rear d44 and narrow a Ford 3/4t front d44 to Waggy width. There's a local 4wd shop here that will narrow my housing for $300 but I'm going to do it myself. You then end up with thicker axletubes than a Waggy, a high pinion diff, and the ability to run off-the-shelf Waggy axleshafts.
Then stick with 35"/36" tires.
Can you eleborate on this? Year, models, what it would need to be shortened to?
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I have no dimensions on width, just a Waggy axle here I'll use for a guide when narrowing the Ford housings. I believe the Ford d44's are '78 or '79 vintage, not sure what other years work with the leaf spring pad in the correct place on the diff.
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Dana 44 Links:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana44.htm
http://www.jeeptech.com/convaxle/d44f.html
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Here's a good link that has axle shaft lengths for variuos dana 44s, including the Ford 78-79 High Pinion
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html
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Little collection of broken d35's http://www.billhughes.com/dana35c/
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Little collection of broken d35's http://www.billhughes.com/dana35c/
:thumbsup: Nice collection! :lol: Each one of those makes for such a long day!
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Little collection of broken d35's http://www.billhughes.com/dana35c/
A collection of stolen images. :lol:
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ok yes I get that yoy can break one. Hell you can break any axles. That is only 20 or so broken out of how many millions on te road though. I think a lot of it is how you drive it, how well you take care of your rig, and how often you wheel. As for me I will test it out and maybe I will eat my words, or maybe not. I don't drive mine real hard, take exceptional care of my cars and only wheel maybe once a month. For me with not wheeling more often I just can't justify blowing 2k on a dana 44. But again this is just me.
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ok yes I get that yoy can break one. Hell you can break any axles. That is only 20 or so broken out of how many millions on te road though. I think a lot of it is how you drive it, how well you take care of your rig, and how often you wheel. As for me I will test it out and maybe I will eat my words, or maybe not. I don't drive mine real hard, take exceptional care of my cars and only wheel maybe once a month. For me with not wheeling more often I just can't justify blowing 2k on a dana 44. But again this is just me.
If your going to be running a tire bigger than 31's I would invest in a HD diff cover to help keep the housing flex in check and/or a simple brace, since this seems to be a big cause of failure on these axles, but this is stuff that you would be adding to a 44 anyway.
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I agree and that is where I need help. What good diff covers do you guys recommend and where can I find things like braces to help avoid the flex?
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I doubt you'll increase the strength significant enough by bolting on a diff cover.
To truss it you will need to weld or bolt on trusses. Check out sharpxmen's turdy five polishing thread. :wall: :lol: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,6984.120.html
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The short answer is there are better axles out there, that can be had for under 300 bucks so why waste time, effort or money on something that will always be marginal at best.
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I doubt you'll increase the strength significant enough by bolting on a diff cover.
Everything I have read says the issue with the center flexing and causing an issue can easily be fixed with a good diff cover.
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Everything I have read says the issue with the center flexing and causing an issue can easily be fixed with a good diff cover.
negative
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The short answer is there are better axles out there, that can be had for under 300 bucks so why waste time, effort or money on something that will always be marginal at best.
Was the point I was wanting to make also if u can do your welding then u can find a 8.8 with 4.10 gears in the 200 range bracket kit for 250 and not worry about it breaking with our weak 4bangers. You also get disk brakes and a limited slip differential
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See this is where you are wrong. The short answer for you may be swap the axles. For guys like me who are new to jeeps and have a ton of experience wrenching but not with modifications or jeep drivetrains in specific, its not that easy. Firstoff I have no idea what axles to get or what axle is out of what. I also have no clue what needs to be modified to make an axle from another truc fit under a jeep. I have no experience welding either so that means an axle I get will need to be modified at a shop before it will bolt in which costs more money. See how guys like me can get lost. Sometimes I think you guys that have done this a while forget to are talking to people with no experience at all.
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See this is where you are wrong. The short answer for you may be swap the axles. For guys like me who are new to jeeps and have a ton of experience wrenching but not with modifications or jeep drivetrains in specific, its not that easy. Firstoff I have no idea what axles to get or what axle is out of what. I also have no clue what needs to be modified to make an axle from another truc fit under a jeep. I have no experience welding either so that means an axle I get will need to be modified at a shop before it will bolt in which costs more money. See how guys like me can get lost. Sometimes I think you guys that have done this a while forget to are talking to people with no experience at all.
You will never convince most Jeepers that the 35 is worth anything more than scrap steel, I try to give people good info and real options instead of the normal crap people spread, but there is no point trying to change the minds of these Jeepers as after years of web wheeling and seeing 1 in 100 d 35s that are wheeled break they know that the 35 is just a junk axle that everyone should run from.
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Nothing spoils a day of wheeling like a rear axle with a wheel and axle shaft coming out of it. I like to spend a day on the trail wheeling and not fixing my or other peoples vehicle. Going out into the backcountry with something that is prone to breaking is somewhat irresponsible. Same goes for hanging out with a group and being the guy that always breaks his stuff and hold everybody up.
Explorer rear axle is a fairly easy swap and it's strong, you can even find them with the correct gear ratio. From there you buy the axle brackets have them welded on bolt the thing in and never look back. Sure people built Dana 35's with 30 spline chromemoly axle shafts and lockers. Is a lot better than stock, but they still break, still have thin axle tubes, a weak housing and they still break. Friend of mine has broken 2 axle shafts in his super 35 and truth be told he is a wuzz, the shafts in that thing are from Superior and they do make pretty good axle shafts.
So do what you feel is best, but spend some time researching and what you want to do with your vehicle and go from there. There are solutions that work some expensive and some affordable and they both work, just a matter of how much money you throw at or how many trail repairs you want to do. It's your time and money.
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I get that most people don't like the d35. My question is in all honesty for a new guy like me that will only wheel maybe once a month and daily drive it the rest of the time and I promise you that for a long time I will be very hesisant to push it into very hard wheeling as I have never wheeled in rocks before and don't want to beak any more than I have to since it is my daily. My other question I I keep hearing different axles to swap. What axles are worth the money to swap and what car and year of car are they out of and what is a good cost to expect when looking for one? Thanks for he help guys and I didn't mean to come across like I don't want advice or anything just want a bit more detail for us new guys is all. Teach me oh wise ones.
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94 and up? Ford explorers have the Ford 8.8 you can find them already geared to 4.10 which will match your front end and save you some money. These axles have disk brakes and a limited slip differential and they can be found around 200. The brackets to install this axle cost around 250 Google tj Ford 8.8 brackets. Call a local shop to get the labor pricing.. I am in the process of doing this now just waiting on the guy doing my welding to get some free time
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The D44's out of a TJ will bolt right in. Either the Sahara or Rubicon will work. Just make sure it has the same gears as your front.
The Ford 8.8 will be cheaper but with needing to buy and weld on the brackets it will add a bunch to the price. If you find one cheap then snag it and save up for the other things you will need. Keep stock piling parts until you have everything you need. Keep wheeling the D35 until you have enough saved then have someone install it.
It took me 2 years to gather parts for my D44 front.
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Ok I may go the route of doing the 8.8. Should I be ok with wheeling till I can get that cause I would rather get my lift and wheels and tires and such before swapping axles. Also this may sound dumb but what gears does my jeep have stock and do your frontand rear gears have to match?
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The D44's out of a TJ will bolt right in. Either the Sahara or Rubicon will work. Just make sure it has the same gears as your front.
2 problems with that
1. they are priced stupid (at least the Rubi ones i looked at that have a locker were somewhere close to $2Gs each for front/rear, not sure if Sahara has lockers and don't know how much those are). Might as well just buy a Rubi, it comes with a stronger t-case which is also 4:1
2. they have D35 outers, so only the center is D44
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Ok I may go the route of doing the 8.8. Should I be ok with wheeling till I can get that cause I would rather get my lift and wheels and tires and such before swapping axles. Also this may sound dumb but what gears does my jeep have stock and do your frontand rear gears have to match?
You should have 4.11 gears there is a identification tag on each axle and yes they do need to match..
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Ok I may go the route of doing the 8.8. Should I be ok with wheeling till I can get that cause I would rather get my lift and wheels and tires and such before swapping axles. Also this may sound dumb but what gears does my jeep have stock and do your frontand rear gears have to match?
Larger tires stress the axles more. Just take it easy.
The stick shifts came with 4.10/4.11 the autos came with 3.73, one year had 4.56. You need to have the same ratio front and rear + or - about 3%.
2 problems with that
1. they are priced stupid (at least the Rubi ones i looked at that have a locker were somewhere close to $2Gs each for front/rear, not sure if Sahara has lockers and don't know how much those are). Might as well just buy a Rubi, it comes with a stronger t-case which is also 4:1
2. they have D35 outers, so only the center is D44
Sahara's would be cheaper than the Rubi. They came with a Limited slip. More than likely 3.07's or 3.73's Prices vary it pays to shop around.
How do they have D35 outers?
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Larger tires stress the axles more. Just take it easy.
The stick shifts came with 4.10/4.11 the autos came with 3.73, one year had 4.56. You need to have the same ratio front and rear + or - about 3%.
Sahara's would be cheaper than the Rubi. They came with a Limited slip. More than likely 3.07's or 3.73's Prices vary it pays to shop around.
How do they have D35 outers?
The TJ 44-3 Option only came with 3.54:1 and later with 3.73:1. You could not get ABS. The option came with the Trashlok and you had to get the full-size conventional spare.
The Rubicon D44 is all D44 except for the inner and outer knuckles which are from the Dana 30. The rear Dana 44 in the Sahara, Sport and Rubicon use a D44 housing but Dana 35 axle tubes and flanges. The housing, gears and shafts are Dana 44. The shafts are actually XJ D44 shafts with smaller bearings and a different flange plate on it.
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Larger tires stress the axles more. Just take it easy.
The stick shifts came with 4.10/4.11 the autos came with 3.73, one year had 4.56. You need to have the same ratio front and rear + or - about 3%.
Sahara's would be cheaper than the Rubi. They came with a Limited slip. More than likely 3.07's or 3.73's Prices vary it pays to shop around.
How do they have D35 outers?
Not all Sahara's came with 44's
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Ok I may go the route of doing the 8.8. Should I be ok with wheeling till I can get that cause I would rather get my lift and wheels and tires and such before swapping axles. Also this may sound dumb but what gears does my jeep have stock and do your frontand rear gears have to match?
Lot's of great info here. http://jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=371713
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Ok here is my question now. You guys make the 8.8 swap sound super easy but then I look at that link and it says I need a ton of stuff not just the brackets. Here is the list I got so if you guys can tell me if I need it all or not that woul be helpful.
Bracket kit
Master install kit
Brake line kit
T hose
TJ rubicon brake cable
ZJ e brake cable
Driveshaft adapter spicer
Flange bolts
TJ rubicon propotioning valve
60 inches or so of hard brake line.
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You will need the bracket kit about $250, drive shaft adapter about $35, one brake rubber hose passenger side I think 15 to $20, I was the one that started using the TJ Rubi E brake cables about $75 and some hard lines
The rest you don't need.
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Ok here is my question now. You guys make the 8.8 swap sound super easy but then I look at that link and it says I need a ton of stuff not just the brackets. Here is the list I got so if you guys can tell me if I need it all or not that woul be helpful.
Bracket kit
Master install kit
Brake line kit
T hose
TJ rubicon brake cable
ZJ e brake cable
Driveshaft adapter spicer
Flange bolts
TJ rubicon propotioning valve
60 inches or so of hard brake line.
http://www.mountainoffroad.com/_e/Ford_8_8_rear_axle_Install_Kit/product/98700/98700_Ford_8_8_Axle_Swap_Kit_for_1997_2006_TJ.htm
They have everything you need. They list the other things that might be needed at the bottom of that link. Shop around for prices as they vary. These guy's made the 8.8 swap popular, I am sure the prices can be beat.
I don't know where you got your info but all those things listed are not needed.
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http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=535475
Here is a fully built 8.8 for $1400. You could just bolt it in barring driveshaft mods. You would need to regear the front to 4.88.
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By the time you buy the rearend and all the parts to put it in than add labor you might be better off to go here.
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-2763540-ford-8-8-rear-axle-bolt-in-tj-assembly.html
I know when I did mine the 8.8 it cost me 250, brackets 225 and all the other parts to bolt it in ran it up right over $600 and those are just the parts to put it in. while I was at it I rebuilt the LSD, put new gears in all new bearings and brake pads bunch more money, and that not including my time it would of been easier to just get a 44 out of a TJ.
The 8.8 worked for my needs, but if I could have found a 44 out of a TJ it would of been put in.
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http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-2763540-ford-8-8-rear-axle-bolt-in-tj-assembly.html
http://www.americanlisted.com/vermont_45/car_parts_3/bolt_in_jeep_tj_ford_8_8_axle_assembly_550_durham_nc_14641268.html
A month ago I had found a guy an a forum selling them.ready to go for 550 searched for a while but couldn't come across it
So what other axles do our more experienced guys use? Have seen pictures of keeps with full. Width axles and this thread has got me curious as.to what else is out there and what advantages do.they offer?
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Two questions;
1) how deep can you gear the d30?
2) I have never torn a drum brake apart. The isuzu d44 I have the ebrake cable is cut. Should the d35 cable fit??
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that eastcostsupply thread is crap. they want 600 plus 200 handling and its just a bare axle with noe gears. it has the brake and inners but no gears or lsd at all. for 800? that's crap. oh and I got that lis from that link at the top of the page. I would do a rubicon axle but for the price the 8.8 is cheaper and stronger. the 8.8 might cost 600 plus the 4.88 gears and locker but the rubicon is 1100 or so and has t be regeared too and it is a weaker axle according to what I read.
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Two questions;
1) how deep can you gear the d30?
2) I have never torn a drum brake apart. The isuzu d44 I have the ebrake cable is cut. Should the d35 cable fit??
D30 goes as high as 4.88 if you have the correct carrier (can't remember what the cut was for going up though, i think it was 3.73 but i'm not sure).
Ideally you would use your cables if they fit, I doubt that the sleeve and cable length from isuzu would work on your Jeep - if the hookup of the cable and the sleeve seat is the same you can use your existing one but i have no idea how the isuzu is like (post some pics though).
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Well they say its weaker anyways, I haven't broke my 44s yet running 35s. unless you go to a super 8.8 axles you will have c-clips. And I hate those you also get a diff that's not centered and you get some vibrations from that.
Like I said if I could of found a 44 out of a TJ I would of went there for my SE. My Rubicon has the 44 as my Sahara and I have had no problems with them.
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the rubicon is 1100 or so and has t be regeared too
If it is a Rubi 44 it will have a locker and that will save you 600 to 800 right there. if you plan one putting in the 8.8
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I see your point. What kind of lockers does the rubicon have and also what gear ratio is it?
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I see your point. What kind of lockers does the rubicon have and also what gear ratio is it?
Japanese made. I forget the actual company. The rear is a LSD when 'open' and locked when closed. You will need a low volume air pump for the locker though.
4:10's in the Rubicon's.
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So its an air locker. Hell I have no clue how to set up one of those. Hell really when you look at it no matter which on you go with its gonna be 1500 or so all said and done.
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So its an air locker. Hell I have no clue how to set up one of those. Hell really when you look at it no matter which on you go with its gonna be 1500 or so all said and done.
That's about the sum of it.
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So its an air locker. Hell I have no clue how to set up one of those. Hell really when you look at it no matter which on you go with its gonna be 1500 or so all said and done.
they are not that hard to setup, the difference between this one and the ARB is the pressure being low in the Rubi's case - it is a great option to have though.
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So its an air locker. Hell I have no clue how to set up one of those. Hell really when you look at it no matter which on you go with its gonna be 1500 or so all said and done.
See if you can get the pump with the rear end for 1100.
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even if I do get them both for 1100 I still gotta pay someone who knows how to hook up the air locker stuff and I need to regear to 4.88s so that's more too.
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You can do it all you got to do is try ;)
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I know I can do it but I don't have the money to do it all right now and I'm trying to get the beast ready for some wheeling next month.
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I know I can do it but I don't have the money to do it all right now and I'm trying to get the beast ready for some wheeling next month.
The cheapest option would then be the TJ D44 or else find someone trading up. There is a bit of welding just to get the control arms, track bar and coil buckets moved. A gear change is going to add $200-800 just in labor for one axle. So if you're going to regear do the axle swap nad have the new axles regeared so you're not doing it over again.
Honestly though, if you're not locked then just carry some spare shafts and spiders and then go have fun. Just don't drive with your ham fists.
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I know I can do it but I don't have the money to do it all right now and I'm trying to get the beast ready for some wheeling next month.
Just toss on some agressive tires and wheel it, if your stock, run 31's, it will work and get you on the trails. Way to many people have this it must be built huge to wheel mentality and it's just stupid, my heep isn't significantly better on any trails now I'm SOA 3/4 eliptical in the rear, on 34's or 36's than what it was when I had worn out springs, that flexed well, sitting shorter than a stock Jeep on 31" MTs. Yes I can run a couple harder obsticles, but all in all thats a very minor part of a wheeling day.
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My whole thing is this. I want to be able to wheel with minimal breaking. I also want a nice looking jeep. it has 31 inch mts now. I don't like the look of it. Its too low and the tires look like babies. Now my original plan was 3 inches of lift and some 33s but everyone tells me I WILL break the d35 eventually. I want to eliminate breakage so I just assume spend a little more and do it right with a new axle. But hell then I was thinking if I'm gonna drop 1500 in an axle I might as well go with a bit bigger lift and some 35s. That's where I'm at now is trying to figure out the best route to go. I think I'm going to try and for now get an 8.8 with 4.10s and run that till I can upgrade the gears ad a locker. Does anybody know what year explorers the ones with 4.10s came from?
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And there is the catch the 4:10s are alot harder to find in the 8.8. buy the Rubi axle and run the locker as a LSD until you can get the pump hooked up. it's a win win deal.
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hmmm good point. The issue I have with that is that again I am new to this and also just moved to oklahoma 8 months ago and no clue where to look to find a rubicon axle around here and shopping online they are way too expensive. I found one here through a savage for 1100 with no pump or brakes. That seems pricey.
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Try here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nY51V6tpq8 I think his prices include shipping.
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Where in Oklahoma are you?
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tulsa but hell I'm not opposed to driving a little bit for a good deal.
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I don't know what that youtube link was supposed to have all I saw was a link to an ebay store that doesn exist anymore.
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I was going to suggest you find a club near you, you'll be amazed at how much there is to learn from people in a 4x4 club that have been doing this for a long time. Down here in OKC there's 2 clubs, not sure about up your way
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I have thought about looking in to that. I know there is a lot of knowledge I lack in jeeps.
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Finally found a front D44!!!!!!!!!!! I bought it off of e-bay out off of a wagoneer and was able to back haul it through my companies freight carrier for nothing. Final price.....$170.00 delivered