Topic: OME suspension on the way - which orientation for shocks?

[bestos]

High all,

my 1995 4banger is getting its suspension - finally, after 12 years of ownership.  OME 2.5" with new 5/8 boomerang shackles.

i have read before, but google is failing me, is there a certain orientation for the shocks, if may have read that shocks had to be flipped for front or rear or something.

so, for OME 2.5, which was is the shock tube mounted, up top or flipped and down near axle?  for front and rear?

ps: what kinda of grease do i use for the new bushings???

[bestos]

lithium grease, question answered,

which WAY was my question, i hope it was not too confusing.     tube lower/rod upper  or    tube upper with rod lower?

[neale_rs]

Exposed rod up is the normal way that would not cause any problems as far as the shock function is concerned. OME could tell you if their shocks can be run the other way.

[sharpxmen]

recommended grease for poly bushings is silicone, that being said i used bearing grease on all of them (but i heard they won't last that long in that case, i can't confirm as the previous ones i had were completely dry and worn even though were initially lubricated with silicone grease that came in the set).

[Jeffy]

Well, the fronts have a direction since there is a stud on one end and an eye on the other.  I'd just match up the rear.  This is how many of the shocks are but some shocks don't have a direction.  I think most if not all can run with the can down.  Only a few can run with the can up.

[sharpxmen]

to run with the cylinder up you usually need a pressure charged shock, that is due to the fact that a regular one would have air at the top (with the cylinder in down/low position) to compensate for the added volume when the rod goes inside the cylinder (as the liquids are incompressible that shock would turn into a bomb or be as stiff as a plain rod if there is no room for the piston/rod to go in). the pressure charged ones are fully filled and the pressure chamber is acting like a buffer and the cap (piston) that seals the gas is moving up and down as the rod goes in or out. If it is not gas charged and you revert it you'd end up with the piston out of the hydraulic fluid and then bad things can happen unless it has a spring to cushion the movement or some sort of limiter between the end of the cylinder and the piston (and would also limit the travel so the piston is always surrounded by fluid). If possible install them with the cylinder down, that never hurts and if it starts leaking will keep you going a bit longer until you get a replacement.

EDIT: to be accurate I should also say that if it is meant to be ran inverted would be specified (some non-gas charged ones are built to run that way mostly for fitting purposes as required by the manufacturer for example if there's not enough room for the cylinder at full compression or some other reason)

[bestos]

OME does not come with any instructions from what i am told. 

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t48/giggityjeep/Picture233-1.jpg

this picture shows front axle with tube at bottom.  looking for a rear picture next

[bestos]

WHAT annoys me is that some people are saying the "+" symbols on the OME springs, both face front of vehicle, and others have stated the "+" symbols BOTH point to the middle.  how frustrating is that. 

[Jeffy]

OME does not come with any instructions from what i am told. 

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t48/giggityjeep/Picture233-1.jpg

this picture shows front axle with tube at bottom.  looking for a rear picture next

Typically both shocks will run the same way as they are of the same model.  Like I said though just about all shocks can be run with the can down and only a few can be run can up and those can also be run can down as well so it doesn't matter.

As for springs, typically one side has a military wrap while the other side is a half wrap.  The fill wrap goes on the frame side while the half wrap is on the shackle side.

[bestos]

yeah just called ARB - got tired of reading.  shocks down. easy.

its all about the larger spring EYE - Freaking DUH.  the plus is just a marker for the spring meeting tolerances.  mountain out of a mole hill.  since i bought HD springs for all 4 leafs (they come with shims - all 4 springs are for the rear) - i need to just remove the shims for the front 2 springs.  i like buying stuff from good companies with great support :) winning!!

[sharpxmen]

fyi - i had angle shims on my old lift kit, the RC kit didn't come with any and i notice that my caster is not right so i might just add the old shims to it. they are less angle than the front so if yours are the same then you're probably right that they are rears (although should be easy to spot since they'd be pointing opposite to the rears when installed and in that case should be removed).

[neale_rs]

I've run angle shims in the rear axle with no problems but there is something about them that has always bothered me:  It seems they would tend to bend the center pin since the outside surface of the shim is not parallel to the spring surface.  A flat could be machined on the shim so that the pin would not get bent but then the pin will not go straight into the hole in the spring perch.  Overall it seems the best way to use shims would be to weld them onto the spring perch, weld up the hole and then redrill the hole perpendicular to the shim surface that the spring will rest on.   

But like I said, I've run them with no problems so maybe none of this really matters all that much. 

[Jeffy]

I've run angle shims in the rear axle with no problems but there is something about them that has always bothered me:  It seems they would tend to bend the center pin since the outside surface of the shim is not parallel to the spring surface.  A flat could be machined on the shim so that the pin would not get bent but then the pin will not go straight into the hole in the spring perch.  Overall it seems the best way to use shims would be to weld them onto the spring perch, weld up the hole and then redrill the hole perpendicular to the shim surface that the spring will rest on.   

But like I said, I've run them with no problems so maybe none of this really matters all that much. 

The only problem with shims is that most are made of aluminum.  If the U-bolts aren't tight, the shim can crack and get spit out.  You can find some steel shims though.

[sharpxmen]

yeah, old lift were aluminum, new ones are some sort of steel (looks like cast but i can't tell for sure, nothing fancy though).

[chardrc]

just got done replacing the shims on the cj2a. the drivers side rear cracked and spit out and the center-pin on the passenger side broke. made for a bunch of axle misalignment on the trail. where do you find steel shims? we couldn't find any locally (which could be the problem). now i just need to get the engine back in so i can be driving a 4 banger again hunting next weekend