Author Topic: May be required to increase to 35s, may be required to go up to HP D30  (Read 5720 times)

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Offline stan98tj

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Re: May be required to increase to 35s, may be required to go up to HP D30
« Reply #15 on: February 07, 2013, 05:19:24 PM »
If you swap the front axle just jump from the D30 to a D60.  There is just a small tire size range that a front D44 will handle that a D30 won't also handle, maybe 36 inch tires, and then you are into D60 territory anyway.  The weak link is the u-joint, D30s (newer ones) and D44s (non-JK) generally use the same size.

i feel like i will lose ground clearance with the d-60 that i gained when going to 35s. The u joints won't be an issue as I will have RCVs. The idea to run the HP 30 came about when I realized i could pull one for at most 150, and recently found out I could perhaps even get one for under 100 bucks. If I run the HP30, i get to retain my $650 locker. I got a buddy who runs the HP30 on his 35s with reg chromoly shafts and spicer joints and just BEATS on the thing and his 4.0 has yet to blow that axle. 35s were NEVER my plan as I always liked the idea to run 33s on around 3" lift and be just as capable as the bigger rigs. Now, I may find myself in a situation where running 35s may be better than re-gearing...
98 TJ 35"Maxxis Trep.Old Man Emu 2.5""+1"BL,IronMan Fab control arms,4.56gears,Ford 8.8+ARB,Currie/IronMan steering, WARN VR10,HP D30 sleeved+ RCV,Body Armor Rock Rails WISHLIST:TDi.Girlfriend hates it :) If you can read this don't flip me over i dont have any $$ left to fix it

Offline Mozman68

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Re: May be required to increase to 35s, may be required to go up to HP D30
« Reply #16 on: February 07, 2013, 05:30:05 PM »
Moz, do you plan on using their standard tune package for 265ft lb torque or do you plan on having them tune it more? I asked them about 300ft lb and they said they would more than likely be able to dial it up. The guy told me about one of their customers from the Netherlands had them tune out to 400ft lbs  :yikes:

I was just planning on their standard tuning since it comes with the package...enough torque in there.  really want it for the hp.
2009 Audi S5....what....its 4wd...sort of....

Offline Jeffy

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Re: May be required to increase to 35s, may be required to go up to HP D30
« Reply #17 on: February 07, 2013, 06:08:00 PM »
Projects gonna get BIG really fast if you don't watch it.  If you need higher gears buy some stock axles.  Then sell yours.  Or find someone who will want to do the swap and then you trade and get some money?
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline stan98tj

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Re: May be required to increase to 35s, may be required to go up to HP D30
« Reply #18 on: February 07, 2013, 08:57:28 PM »
Projects gonna get BIG really fast if you don't watch it.  If you need higher gears buy some stock axles.  Then sell yours.  Or find someone who will want to do the swap and then you trade and get some money?

The issue I'm having is worrying the low pinion d30 won't hold up well to the increased torque, even if I stay at 33s. I thought over a d44 swap, but i would have to buy a new front locker ($600+) and maybe build up that axle as well...so i figured I'd save on the locker by going with an HP 30 so I could re-use my locker.
98 TJ 35"Maxxis Trep.Old Man Emu 2.5""+1"BL,IronMan Fab control arms,4.56gears,Ford 8.8+ARB,Currie/IronMan steering, WARN VR10,HP D30 sleeved+ RCV,Body Armor Rock Rails WISHLIST:TDi.Girlfriend hates it :) If you can read this don't flip me over i dont have any $$ left to fix it

Offline Jeffy

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Re: May be required to increase to 35s, may be required to go up to HP D30
« Reply #19 on: February 07, 2013, 11:08:06 PM »
The issue I'm having is worrying the low pinion d30 won't hold up well to the increased torque, even if I stay at 33s. I thought over a d44 swap, but i would have to buy a new front locker ($600+) and maybe build up that axle as well...so i figured I'd save on the locker by going with an HP 30 so I could re-use my locker.
I don't think it's going to be a big problem unless you really romp on it.  I know of several CJ's still running D30's with V8's.  If you're worried, swap in a HP30.  Would be cheaper then doing a D44 or D60.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline neale_rs

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Re: May be required to increase to 35s, may be required to go up to HP D30
« Reply #20 on: February 08, 2013, 01:42:57 PM »
HP D30 is pretty cost effective but if you go any bigger with the front axle skip the D44 and just go straight to the D60.  The main point is that a front D44 is mainly good for 36 inch tires, with 35s you can stick with the D30 and with 37s or bigger you would be better off with the D60. 
'95 YJ, 33 x 12.5 mud tires, RE 4.5 ED lift, Atlas 4 speed, rear D44, ARBs front and rear, 4.56 gears, 8000# winch

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: May be required to increase to 35s, may be required to go up to HP D30
« Reply #21 on: February 08, 2013, 01:55:32 PM »
d60 is gigantic, don't get me wrong - it is very strong and you can probably run 42'' tires on it but it's super heavy from what i gather and overkill imo even for 37s - Art is probably the authority in this matter so maybe he can give his 2 cents on it.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
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Offline aw12345

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Re: May be required to increase to 35s, may be required to go up to HP D30
« Reply #22 on: February 08, 2013, 02:08:44 PM »
Basically I have done a good amount oif Hammer trails on 37" tires and a Front D60 and a 14bolt in the rear which is bigger yet. It makes it pretty darn bullet proof you get a street driveable Jeep you can take to some really gnarly trails and go to town without to much fear of breaking. Then when you want to get super crazy, you roll the fourties under it and have even more fun. Swap the 37's back on and happily drive to work after a weekend of serious flogging. What more is there to be said if you built it with a lot of power, then somewhere along the line you will try to test it's limits, so might as well go all the way from the get go
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Offline aw12345

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Re: May be required to increase to 35s, may be required to go up to HP D30
« Reply #23 on: February 08, 2013, 02:12:26 PM »
Online friend tried to race the EMC on a Rubicon Dana 44 front axle with 37's as expected it died an untimely death at the first rock section he had to get through, got close to the end of it, but after that he would have had to do 5 more hard trails.
Did real well in the desert though he ran 5 th in that part and topped out at 77 mph through the whoops, not bad for our hillbilly suspension tune.
When we started on Monday morning the Jeep was down right dangerous to drive you could flip it any time you wanted too, without a lot of effort
2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ SE
2004 Jeep Wrangler TJ SE

Offline neale_rs

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Re: May be required to increase to 35s, may be required to go up to HP D30
« Reply #24 on: February 08, 2013, 02:49:27 PM »
Online friend tried to race the EMC on a Rubicon Dana 44 front axle with 37's as expected it died an untimely death at the first rock section he had to get through, got close to the end of it, but after that he would have had to do 5 more hard trails.
Did real well in the desert though he ran 5 th in that part and topped out at 77 mph through the whoops, not bad for our hillbilly suspension tune.
When we started on Monday morning the Jeep was down right dangerous to drive you could flip it any time you wanted too, without a lot of effort

Thanks for this update, I was very interested in knowing how it would do.
'95 YJ, 33 x 12.5 mud tires, RE 4.5 ED lift, Atlas 4 speed, rear D44, ARBs front and rear, 4.56 gears, 8000# winch

Offline stan98tj

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Re: May be required to increase to 35s, may be required to go up to HP D30
« Reply #25 on: February 08, 2013, 04:30:42 PM »
Basically I have done a good amount oif Hammer trails on 37" tires and a Front D60 and a 14bolt in the rear which is bigger yet. It makes it pretty darn bullet proof you get a street driveable Jeep you can take to some really gnarly trails and go to town without to much fear of breaking. Then when you want to get super crazy, you roll the fourties under it and have even more fun. Swap the 37's back on and happily drive to work after a weekend of serious flogging. What more is there to be said if you built it with a lot of power, then somewhere along the line you will try to test it's limits, so might as well go all the way from the get go
and here I thought I wasn't going to even consider D-60s...then Art chimes in...
Guess I really have a lot of thinking to do. I know I def don't ever want to go up over 35s. I'd actually like to stay at 33s, but if I end up reving too high, I would just rather size up to 35s rather than (re)gear down to 4.11.
Then again, a bullet-proof D-60 build...
Art, how noticable is the clearance lost when going from 33s on a Dana 30 to 35s on a Dana 60?
98 TJ 35"Maxxis Trep.Old Man Emu 2.5""+1"BL,IronMan Fab control arms,4.56gears,Ford 8.8+ARB,Currie/IronMan steering, WARN VR10,HP D30 sleeved+ RCV,Body Armor Rock Rails WISHLIST:TDi.Girlfriend hates it :) If you can read this don't flip me over i dont have any $$ left to fix it

Offline aw12345

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Re: May be required to increase to 35s, may be required to go up to HP D30
« Reply #26 on: February 08, 2013, 06:28:06 PM »
A D60 diff housing hangs 1" lower than a D44. I have found though that the front diff is actually fairly easy to push over rocks and what not. The rear is a bit more trouble some, Gotta learn how to lift the diffs over stuff, takes kind of an awareness of where they are located and how to not hang em up. Work most of the time for me :dance: If not there is always a rock to be found to stuff under a tire for some extra clearance or if all else fails a winch. I like the wheeling with very little or no worries about breaking.
2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ SE
2004 Jeep Wrangler TJ SE

Offline Jeffy

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Re: May be required to increase to 35s, may be required to go up to HP D30
« Reply #27 on: February 08, 2013, 07:28:50 PM »
and here I thought I wasn't going to even consider D-60s...then Art chimes in...
Guess I really have a lot of thinking to do. I know I def don't ever want to go up over 35s. I'd actually like to stay at 33s, but if I end up reving too high, I would just rather size up to 35s rather than (re)gear down to 4.11.
Then again, a bullet-proof D-60 build...
Art, how noticable is the clearance lost when going from 33s on a Dana 30 to 35s on a Dana 60?
Unless you shave the housing a D60 will be a bit of a handicap with 33's on a rocky trail.  You end up running into and getting hung up if you're not careful.  At least you won't be breaking axles though.  The last time I was on the Rubicon we had a YJ with D60's and 33's in our group.

Well, as long as you drive it like it had a stock axle, you should be fine with the D30.  Swap to a HP30 if you have the time.  Then save for a D44 if it ever breaks.  Upgrade the shafts on the D44 and it should be fine.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline stan98tj

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Re: May be required to increase to 35s, may be required to go up to HP D30
« Reply #28 on: February 08, 2013, 08:00:06 PM »
Unless you shave the housing a D60 will be a bit of a handicap with 33's on a rocky trail.  You end up running into and getting hung up if you're not careful.  At least you won't be breaking axles though.  The last time I was on the Rubicon we had a YJ with D60's and 33's in our group.

Well, as long as you drive it like it had a stock axle, you should be fine with the D30.  Swap to a HP30 if you have the time.  Then save for a D44 if it ever breaks.  Upgrade the shafts on the D44 and it should be fine.

The only first hand knowledge I have of the HP 30 lies with 2 guys i know. My buddy Dom, who I've featured in a bunch of my posts/videos, runs 35s and just goes to town on the trail. He is currently saving up to build the D30 as i have intention to. Another guy i know, Erich, has a 4banger on 35s with an hp 30. He says his HP 30 was one of the more important upgrades for his rig. He regularly wheels, wheels it hard and his Jeep spends a good amount of time in the rocks. I understand the bullet proof advantage of D60s, but are they truly needed for 35s? Will a built up HP 30 not be adequate?
98 TJ 35"Maxxis Trep.Old Man Emu 2.5""+1"BL,IronMan Fab control arms,4.56gears,Ford 8.8+ARB,Currie/IronMan steering, WARN VR10,HP D30 sleeved+ RCV,Body Armor Rock Rails WISHLIST:TDi.Girlfriend hates it :) If you can read this don't flip me over i dont have any $$ left to fix it

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: May be required to increase to 35s, may be required to go up to HP D30
« Reply #29 on: February 08, 2013, 08:37:44 PM »
for 35s D60 is overkill imo not to mention the lower hanging diff housing.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end