Topic: Finally dived into the repair work I needed (well, I started, anyway!)

[jfrabat]

So today I had a few spare hours, and decided to put them to good use in the Jeep.  I started by taking out my windshield washing fluid bottle, which was cracked and fixing it (I took out the little water pump, and THAT is a real PITA to get back into place!).  Anyway, I drilled a hole to get rid of the crack (so it would not continue expanding), and filled it with high strength epoxy.  Here are some pics of that fix:





Then I started fiddling around with the DCC controller; it seems the positive at some point shorted out with the casing.  No damage, but it definitely needing fixing, which is done now.  Then I ran into this:



As you can see, one of my ground wires came lose, so that was fixed.  Also, I went to replace my coil with the PD Screaming Demon, only to find that the mechanic that relocated my coil used a different type of connector.  I know I bought a connector while I was in Costa Rica, but I don't know where it ended up after the move to Panama, so I will have to look that up to fix this issue...  No sense in keeping the other coil, as I have about 6 of the stock YJ coils laying around!  Notice also that the wire is male and the coil female...



Also, I dug up some injectors that I had laying around (I thought they were 19# injectors), but this is what I had:



Can these be used in the YJ?  I dont think so, right?  My guess is that these are 24# injectors, right?

[sharpxmen]

without a part number is impossible to tell

they look like the 4.0L injectors that someone put a wire brush on and if that's the case i don't think you can use them in the YJ (that's what i recall, i'm pretty sure of it though, check the faq for my post with p/n and flow).

[jfrabat]

Part number is 280150917; according to this site, the details of this injector is as follows:

Part Number: 0280150917   
cc/min: 228
lb/hr: 22
Rating  (at)  (Bar): 3
Ohm: 14.9
Connector: EV1

So... In Sharp we trust; what's your opinion?  Should I put them in?

[jfrabat]

Oh, and by the way, the bottle repair did not work...  It's leaking again!

[sharpxmen]

Part number is 280150917; according to this site, the details of this injector is as follows:

Part Number: 0280150917   
cc/min: 228
lb/hr: 22
Rating  (at)  (Bar): 3
Ohm: 14.9
Connector: EV1

So... In Sharp we trust; what's your opinion?  Should I put them in?

you can use them but you'll need to lower the pressure i think, i can give you a psi number later on.

[RNandKT]

Just for reference it is 22 lbs/hr at 3 Bar (3 Bar roughly equals about 43.5psi) Your stock YJ is supposed to run at about 17 lbs/hr at 39 psi if I remember correctly (some one chime in if I have this wrong), so that much of an increase would probably be way too much unless your motor is already heavily modified (bigger cam, or stroker or such).

Better bet is to look for a set of Ford 19 lb injectors, they are the hot ticket for YJ's.

There is a thread where this is discussed pretty heavily.

http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,8191.0.html

as well as a fairly complrehensive FAQ by Jeffy

http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,3479.0.html

[sharpxmen]

if you set the presure at 37 (with the vac hose unplugged or fuel pump jumped and engine not running) you get 20lb/hr

you can try going lower in fuel pressure but it might not atomize properly, to go to 19 you'll need to set the pressure to about 33, that would be fine but while at idle or low throttle opening would be getting as low as 25 and i think that's going to hurt the spray.

you can try and see how it goes, but they're a bit too big i think.

@rnandkt - he's got an a/m cam, roller rockers and an adjustable fpr (and if i remember correctly a 60mm t/b as well).

EDIT:
I posted this before actually checking the injector data for Bosch 0280150917
it is 18.27lb/hr at 43.5psi (3 bar), so nowhere near close to 22, they are actually flowing a tiny bit less than the stockers (17.3 at 39psi compared to 17.4 for the stock ones). You can just leave the FPR where it's at (i think you already have it set at 44 or so) and try them out - only concern i have is that they look second hand and seems to have been made to look shiny so you never know what you get.

EDIT2: apparenly those were in a GM 3.8L v6

[jfrabat]

So then keep them and try them?  These are supposed to be re-manufactured, and balanced.  I got these a while back, so I could be wrong, but they are supposed to be tested and all...

[sharpxmen]

what do you have now (do you have the ford design iii or just stock). You can test them out though and see how it goes.

[Tr00b]

I wonder how it does go with those injectors.

I always thought fuel injection systems had some room for of self adjustment to maintain stoichometry by increasing or decreasing injector pulse as adjusted by feedback from the 02 sensor. The ecu would back off injector pulse to compensate for excess fuel like in a high altitude situation.

Why is this not the case?

[jfrabat]

what do you have now (do you have the ford design iii or just stock). You can test them out though and see how it goes.

Ford Mustang ones (design II).  I think I will give these a whirl and see how they do.  Worst case scenario, I put the old ones back in...

I always thought fuel injection systems had some room for of self adjustment to maintain stoichometry by increasing or decreasing injector pulse as adjusted by feedback from the 02 sensor. The ecu would back off injector pulse to compensate for excess fuel like in a high altitude situation.

Why is this not the case?

It IS the case, but if they are WAY off, the ECU will have a hard time adjusting.  Also, the adjustment happens in closed loop, but in open loop, the ECU defaults to the stock tables, which means the engine could run like crap until it warms up...

[jfrabat]

J...so that much of an increase would probably be way too much unless your motor is already heavily modified (bigger cam, or stroker or such).

@rnandkt - he's got an a/m cam, roller rockers and an adjustable fpr (and if i remember correctly a 60mm t/b as well).

As stated, I do have a more aggressive cam (450 lift 256 duration Mopar High Performance), Yella Terra Roller Rockers, Sharp's adjustable FPR (set at 44 PSI, IIRC) and a 62mm TB with spacer...

It IS the case, but if they are WAY off, the ECU will have a hard time adjusting.  Also, the adjustment happens in closed loop, but in open loop, the ECU defaults to the stock tables, which means the engine could run like crap until it warms up...

By the way, this has got me wondering if the issue I have (the Jeep needs to be accelarated to restart it) does not have something to do with the increase in flow rate (more pressure with larger flow injectors)...

I posted this before actually checking the injector data for Bosch 0280150917
it is 18.27lb/hr at 43.5psi (3 bar), so nowhere near close to 22, they are actually flowing a tiny bit less than the stockers (17.3 at 39psi compared to 17.4 for the stock ones). You can just leave the FPR where it's at (i think you already have it set at 44 or so) and try them out - only concern i have is that they look second hand and seems to have been made to look shiny so you never know what you get.

I have found different sites indicating different flow rates (200cc, 210cc and 220cc); are you positive on the flow rates?  I dont question you, but I am wondering because of the variations I see online (10% range)...

[jfrabat]

Oh, and a couple of additional things...  I reconnected the 3rd brake light today (has to use a TJ bracket, as the TJ hinges do not allow for the use of the YJ bracket, but I made it work), re-wired the back-up lamp (I had to relocate to the driver's side when I used the TJ tailgate hinges), and put in the heater hose valve to close the flow of coolant to the heater core.  I also checked the vacuum lines of the heater/ventilation system, and they seem to be working.  I have a vacuum reservoir in place, and I last drop the Jeep on Friday.  Today, you could still hear the vacuum operating, which means that it is keeping the vacuum pressure, so I figured they are still good.  I did notice the vent cable had come loose, but cable that operates the heater trap door (or whatever it is called) is working fine, so I guess the insulation has come loose and that is why I was getting hot air. 

I did notice that behind the dash there was a positive and negative (red and black) wires that were not connected to anything.  The positive has a 90* connecting boot (similar to the one on the cigarette lighter, but it's not that one), and the negative has a female plug.  Any idea what those are, or what they are supposed to be connected to?  I took a picture with my phone that I can post tomorrow in case you are interested...

[Tr00b]

Could be hookups for a CB from the PO.

Ah good point on the injectors and open loop. Sounds like you have all the mods and the adjustable FPR to support the bigger injectors?

[jfrabat]

Could be hookups for a CB from the PO.

PO did not have CB; actually, he the only mods the Jeep had when I bought it were after market stereo, wheels and 31" street tires... 

Ah good point on the injectors and open loop. Sounds like you have all the mods and the adjustable FPR to support the bigger injectors?

I should, but until the Jeep runs right, I will have to say no...