Topic: how will a 2.5 do with 35s????

[jmac983]

Ok I'm looking to buy a wrangler and found one that I like. It's a 97 2.5 5 speed with a 4 inch lift and has 35s. Has a lot if other thing done but my question is how the 2.5 will handle the 35s. Rear end is stock as far as I know. This will be driven mostly around town as a toy but maybe some light off roading from time to time.

[jfrabat]

Ok I'm looking to buy a wrangler and found one that I like. It's a 97 2.5 5 speed with a 4 inch lift and has 35s. Has a lot if other thing done but my question is how the 2.5 will handle the 35s. Rear end is stock as far as I know. This will be driven mostly around town as a toy but maybe some light off roading from time to time.

It REALLY REALLY REALLY depends on the gears.  If the rear axle is a D35, then the highest you can go is 4.88, which, in my opinion, is not low enough for 35's (I have 33's on 4.88, and I feel a LITTLE - not much, but a little - underpwered).  If you have 5.13 or lower (numerically higher), then it will be even better.  With the correct gear, 35's should not be a problem at all, but with the wrong gears, it can be a dog!

[Castr8r]

Don't drag race, stay off of rocks, and be gentle with the skinny pedal, and they'll last awhile.  Better yet, put on some 33" tires that are more appropriate for the 4" lift and some 4.88 gears.

[jcsanders79]

I agree, very few TJ's are running 35's right.  I have 33's and 4.88's.  I plan to go to 35's but will be putting 5.38's.  For mall cruising 33's are fine.

[Jeffy]

I'd buy it, if it's a decent deal, then sell the tires and put on 33's.  If it has stock gearing you'll thank me.  I have 35's with 4.56's and I'm wanting to go with 5.38's or 5.89's.

You can drive it with stock gearing and 35's BUT you'll basically turn the 5-speed into a 3-speed.  You'll have to slip the clutch more to get it moving as well.

Even for 33's I'd consider swapping in a TJ D44 for the added strength.

[jfrabat]

In my case, as I mentioned, I feel 4.88's are not low enough for 33's (although now with the new cam, it did improve, and except for highway cruising at 65mph in 5th, I'd say it's OK).  I also upgraded the axles to alloy (both the D30 and D35; on hindsight, I should probably have replaced the rear with a D44, though) to make sure they could handle both the larger tires and the lockers (I have ARB front and rear).

The point is that even with 4.88 gears and 33's, I barely use 5th on the highway (you can use it without downshifting, but the pedal will need to go all the way to the floor with anything that resembles a slight hill).  I second the thought of buying it if it has a good price, selling the 35's and buying 33's.

[Mozman68]

I think things must have improved dramatically with the TJ's....I always here YJ guys complaining about the power and I noticed it as well when I drove my boss' old YJ.

My TJ does fine with 4.88's and 35's and a lot of added weight.  I drive it every day and on the highway...use 5th gear all of the time.

[jagular7]

When driving any 4-cyl vehicle, you will quickly notice the power to weight ratio. My TJ when stock didn't have a whole lot of seat of the pants power, meaning, its power to weight was low start with. I built up my TJ and currently run on 35's with 4.88s. This basically places it back and ever so slightly above (through the numbers) the stock performance I had. So I accepted this. Mine has a 3-sp auto. I do control the shift points with the shifter for better acceleration.

Like others have stated, if the pricing is good enough for you to consider the buy, then do the best you can negotiating. Then borrow a set of 33's and give those a try. If you prefer the smaller size for the performance added, then sell the 35's and get yourself a set of 33s.

[Mozman68]

Yep...mine feels only slightly worst than stock....at least as I can remember.

[neale_rs]

It's kind of surprising but you are numerically slightly better with 4.88 and 35s than with 4.56 and 33s.

[jagular7]

It's kind of surprising but you are numerically slightly better with 4.88 and 35s than with 4.56 and 33s.

I have an auto with a 1:1 final gear ratio. I had 3.73s with ~28" tall tires (215's). I used the a/b=x/y and solved for x. (3.73/28=x/35). Using the formulas to determine the ratio needed to keep same performance rpms at highway speeds, IIRC 4.23's are needed for a 35" tall tire. If you really get down to the number calcs, you won't be using the height of the tire, you will need the circumference of the tire for the rotation. This gives you the amount of distance the tire travels for a given rotation.

[sharpxmen]

I have an auto with a 1:1 final gear ratio. I had 3.73s with ~28" tall tires (215's). I used the a/b=x/y and solved for x. (3.73/28=x/35). Using the formulas to determine the ratio needed to keep same performance rpms at highway speeds, IIRC 4.23's are needed for a 35" tall tire. If you really get down to the number calcs, you won't be using the height of the tire, you will need the circumference of the tire for the rotation. This gives you the amount of distance the tire travels for a given rotation.

you'll get the same numbers as per your formula above (3.73/28=x/35) since the circumference is directly proportional with the tire diameter (circumference = PI*Diam), so that calculation you posted would be the same in both instances (using diameter or circumference as a calculation base). Not sure if the shift points are changing with the auto when you use bigger tires so that can be the difference but with a standard your numbers would be correct.

[TahoeYJ]

I don't know why, but maybe I'm just some lucky YJ'er who can push 35's just fine 

I have no issue running 75 down the highway all day long, I honestly wouldn't mind having something lower like 5:13's or 5:29's but only for long, steep grades. It's not the fastest thing in the world but it gets around fine, which is all I care about.

[drunkencityworker]

rule #1. test drive. take it out and see if you can deal with it. everyone has there opinion on what they use. which is usefull. however in the end it comes down to what you are willing to deal with

[drunkencityworker]

one more thing to check out is does it have sye or stock slip yoke. if sye then thats a good little chunk of $ you dont have to worry about. i did 8.8 swap for about 600. my sye was another 300.