Author Topic: Pitman Arm  (Read 4603 times)

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Offline mrcabinet

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Pitman Arm
« on: October 26, 2009, 09:32:29 AM »
I have a 4" Pro Comp lift on the TJ and, after reading several posts here, am now wondering if I should put a dropped pitman arm on it. I don't know if I'd call it bump steer or not, but when I'm accelerating hard and take my foot off the gas to shift, it does tend to pull to the right. Also, the steering has always felt a little "squirrely", despite everything being tight and adjusted.

If I do the pitman arm, will I have to do anything to the trackbar? It is an adjustable one, but will I need to change the mount and, if so, with what?

Thanks in advance.
No matter where you're going, there you are.

Offline Bounty Hunter

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Re: Pitman Arm
« Reply #1 on: October 26, 2009, 09:46:32 AM »
Take a look at your draglink in relation to the trackbar and see if they're parallel.  If they are, don't change anything.

If a drop pitman arm will help bring them close to parallel, install it.  Get a pitman arm from an XJ at the boneyard if you want a drop pitman on the cheap.

Post a pic of the front end if you're not sure about parallel.

Offline jfrabat

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Re: Pitman Arm
« Reply #2 on: October 26, 2009, 10:09:50 AM »
I have a 4" Pro Comp lift on the TJ and, after reading several posts here, am now wondering if I should put a dropped pitman arm on it. I don't know if I'd call it bump steer or not, but when I'm accelerating hard and take my foot off the gas to shift, it does tend to pull to the right. Also, the steering has always felt a little "squirrely", despite everything being tight and adjusted.

If I do the pitman arm, will I have to do anything to the trackbar? It is an adjustable one, but will I need to change the mount and, if so, with what?

Thanks in advance.

ON my YJ, when I installed the lift with the relocation bracket for the trackbar, but when I changed to a telescoping trackbar from JKS, I had to go back to the stock pitman arm to keep the steering geometry correct...  So, like Bounty says, post some pics and we will be able to tell from there...
'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Superwinch EPi9.0, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-5.13, 165A alt., 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Hydroboost

Offline mrcabinet

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Re: Pitman Arm
« Reply #3 on: October 26, 2009, 01:51:37 PM »
They look pretty darn close to parallel, but I'll shoot a pic and get your guy's opinion.
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Steve-0

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Re: Pitman Arm
« Reply #4 on: October 27, 2009, 02:44:33 PM »
Can you tell if mine is stock or not? I think, after reading around, that I might want to do just a tie rod flip and leave the pitman alone.


Offline Jeffy

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Re: Pitman Arm
« Reply #5 on: October 27, 2009, 02:45:52 PM »
It's stock.  Be aware, you'll need to ream the knuckles.
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Re: Pitman Arm
« Reply #6 on: October 27, 2009, 03:01:50 PM »
Couldnt I just drill them out? It seems like you could just as easy or easier, drill them out and install the new tapered sleeve and weld it in place then re-install tie rod. Please excuse my etch-a-sketch drawing. I really hate drawing with a mouse. Does this make sense or am i missing something? And does anyone know where I can get just the sleeves if this option works?


Offline FourbangerYJ

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Re: Pitman Arm
« Reply #7 on: October 27, 2009, 03:51:05 PM »
http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm

These will work if you are going to stay with the stock TRE's.
Scott~

Using tools you have not used in a while is like shaking hands with old friends. :nod:

Offline Jeffy

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Re: Pitman Arm
« Reply #8 on: October 27, 2009, 05:15:22 PM »
Couldnt I just drill them out? It seems like you could just as easy or easier, drill them out and install the new tapered sleeve and weld it in place then re-install tie rod. Please excuse my etch-a-sketch drawing. I really hate drawing with a mouse. Does this make sense or am i missing something? And does anyone know where I can get just the sleeves if this option works?
Yes, you can drill them out and weld in sleeves as well.
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Offline oldjeep

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Re: Pitman Arm
« Reply #9 on: October 27, 2009, 05:45:01 PM »
http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm

These will work if you are going to stay with the stock TRE's.

And they work so well.   I'm awfully hard on parts and have never had an issue with the stock sized TRE's
Chuck P
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Offline Bounty Hunter

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Re: Pitman Arm
« Reply #10 on: October 27, 2009, 09:07:09 PM »
Your draglink doesn't look that steep, I don't see the need.  Can you post a pic from straight ahead?

If you do the tapered insert and tierod flip, you will need a 3rd insert for where the draglink connects to the tierod.  Check the stabilizer connection as well, I no longer have YJ linkage and forget where it connects.

Steve-0

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Re: Pitman Arm
« Reply #11 on: October 27, 2009, 11:41:57 PM »
Yes. There are more pictures on this post. http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,7573.0.html
I am trying to eliminate bump steer (or reduce it at least).

Offline Bounty Hunter

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Re: Pitman Arm
« Reply #12 on: October 28, 2009, 05:26:34 AM »
Installing a track bar will do a lot to improve bumpsteer, and either use a drop pitman arm or a bracket on the axle end of the trackbar to raise that end.  Rough Country makes a good sturdy track bar bracket.

Offline Jeffy

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Re: Pitman Arm
« Reply #13 on: October 28, 2009, 07:39:40 PM »
Kind of defeats the purpose of the shackle reversal and doesn't address the actual problem though.
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Re: Pitman Arm
« Reply #14 on: October 28, 2009, 10:44:43 PM »
Sorry guys but I am pretty new to this. Can you tell me what purpose the shackle reversal has. Sorry Jeffy if you already told me in another post.