Author Topic: Still leaks...  (Read 12019 times)

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Offline Jeffy

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Re: Still leaks...
« Reply #45 on: February 04, 2010, 06:59:30 PM »
Well, it's raining again and... it still leaks.  I fixed the cowl vent leak, the cowl weatherstripping leak, the door leaks and now the cowl seam leaks again.  I think I fixed it this time.  At least I was able to see where the leak was coming from and didn't have to guess.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2010, 08:13:41 PM by Jeffy »
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Offline Mozman68

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Re: Still leaks...
« Reply #46 on: February 04, 2010, 07:52:43 PM »
You think you fixed it??   :lol:
2009 Audi S5....what....its 4wd...sort of....

Offline Jeffy

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Re: Still leaks...
« Reply #47 on: February 04, 2010, 08:14:58 PM »
You think you fixed it??   :lol:
There are only a finite number of places for it to leak from so I'm getting there.  I'll know tomorrow.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline Mozman68

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Re: Still leaks...
« Reply #48 on: February 06, 2010, 04:19:42 AM »
This is a Jeep..."finite" could just as easily be "one million"....I can't believe mine was as easy as the windshield header (especially after tearing into the cowl...twice..).

That stupid water found its way all the way down the windshield frame and would drip either from the underside of the dash or inside of the door....never could see it actually happening or where it was coming from....just dumb luck that I tracked mine down.
2009 Audi S5....what....its 4wd...sort of....

Offline aw12345

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Re: Still leaks...
« Reply #49 on: February 06, 2010, 05:18:30 AM »
Like I said when I did my cage I moved the windshield back a hair has never leaked since. Before it would leak pretty bad with the factory top now same top no leaks.
I would have sworn it came from the heater but nope, the rubber under the windshield frame just needed to be pinched a hair more
2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ SE
2004 Jeep Wrangler TJ SE

Offline Mozman68

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Re: Still leaks...
« Reply #50 on: February 06, 2010, 06:06:32 AM »
Like I said when I did my cage I moved the windshield back a hair has never leaked since. Before it would leak pretty bad with the factory top now same top no leaks.
I would have sworn it came from the heater but nope, the rubber under the windshield frame just needed to be pinched a hair more

I thought I was up early...or are you up very late?? ???
2009 Audi S5....what....its 4wd...sort of....

Offline FourbangerYJ

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Re: Still leaks...
« Reply #51 on: February 06, 2010, 09:55:10 AM »
I thought I was up early...or are you up very late?? ???

He works graveyard shift.
Scott~

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Offline Jeffy

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Re: Still leaks...
« Reply #52 on: February 06, 2010, 12:38:05 PM »
Like I said when I did my cage I moved the windshield back a hair has never leaked since. Before it would leak pretty bad with the factory top now same top no leaks.
I would have sworn it came from the heater but nope, the rubber under the windshield frame just needed to be pinched a hair more
Well, I can saw without a doubt it's not the windshield cowl gasket.  It's leaking from a body seam (which the TJ doesn't have).  I can pour water in at the top and catch it when it drips into the floor.  I know I have several leaks is less water on the floors and there are less signs of water running down the firewall.  This time there is no water on the firewall or the wiring under the dash.  I've got to check it today and see if there is any water on the foor.  If not then it's sealed up.  Although I should probably redo the seal job with something that doesn't stay tacky like silicone.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Still leaks...
« Reply #53 on: February 06, 2010, 03:55:47 PM »
Well, I can saw without a doubt it's not the windshield cowl gasket.  It's leaking from a body seam (which the TJ doesn't have).  I can pour water in at the top and catch it when it drips into the floor.  I know I have several leaks is less water on the floors and there are less signs of water running down the firewall.  This time there is no water on the firewall or the wiring under the dash.  I've got to check it today and see if there is any water on the foor.  If not then it's sealed up.  Although I should probably redo the seal job with something that doesn't stay tacky like silicone.
i had the same problem at the body seam - used ureathane to seal it, had to remove the old sealant (whatever that was, something rubbery and if i remember correctly tan color) - it's tedious process, clean it all off and use a degreaser/solvent -  i used masking tape about 1/16'' around the seam afterwards, filled with urethane, ran my finger over just like when you caulk the bathtub for example (had rubber gloves on) and removed the masking tape right away. next day i masked again another 1/16 from the edge of fthe urethane and then paint it with a spray can, you can hardly tell it was done.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: Still leaks...
« Reply #54 on: February 06, 2010, 04:21:52 PM »
The OEM sealant looks white or turned white.  I didn't bother picking it out but I probably should have considered it although, it's still rainy season and I want to just stop it from leaking till I can address it better next time.  The OEM sealant is not rubbery at all.  It's hard and shrank in a few areas where it's leaking from.  I was thinking about using epoxy to just filling the areas.  I just used black RTV which I had on hand.  It was that or clear Silicone.  Need to pick up some grey urethane sealant when the rain stops.  Problem with repainting it is that my paint is a one off ('92 only) so I have to special order it.  I don't really care about how it looks right now though.  I didn't bother to even mask it but the Jeep is no where near new and you don't notice it with the mismatched doors and other accessories.  :lol:

Oh and it doesn't seem to be leaking anymore.  It rained all last night and the floors were dry.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Still leaks...
« Reply #55 on: February 06, 2010, 09:17:58 PM »
The OEM sealant looks white or turned white.  I didn't bother picking it out but I probably should have considered it although, it's still rainy season and I want to just stop it from leaking till I can address it better next time.  The OEM sealant is not rubbery at all.  It's hard and shrank in a few areas where it's leaking from.  I was thinking about using epoxy to just filling the areas.  I just used black RTV which I had on hand.  It was that or clear Silicone.  Need to pick up some grey urethane sealant when the rain stops.  Problem with repainting it is that my paint is a one off ('92 only) so I have to special order it.  I don't really care about how it looks right now though.  I didn't bother to even mask it but the Jeep is no where near new and you don't notice it with the mismatched doors and other accessories.  :lol:

Oh and it doesn't seem to be leaking anymore.  It rained all last night and the floors were dry.

the urethane i got was black - i think i still have the tube somewhere - it held up very good and i did it 4 years ago if not more. don't use epoxy, the  body "works" there, it's not solid so it needs something somewhat flexible to "give" - this one i put on it's getting hard but you can still press it a little (if i put my nail in it, but it's very solid otherwise, something of the consistency of a floor rubber mat, way harder than the silicone), it's similar to the windshield one but it's specified to be for seams (guy at the store recommended this one when i wanted to get the windshield one).
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: Still leaks...
« Reply #56 on: February 06, 2010, 11:14:14 PM »
Well the last time I used clear silicone it lasted over 10 years.  So it was about due.  Did you pick out the old stuff or just fill in where it separated?  I only have two places where the sealant pulled away, maybe 1/2" or so.  It would be a real PITA to pick out the whole seam and redo it.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Still leaks...
« Reply #57 on: February 07, 2010, 12:36:38 AM »
Well the last time I used clear silicone it lasted over 10 years.  So it was about due.  Did you pick out the old stuff or just fill in where it separated?  I only have two places where the sealant pulled away, maybe 1/2" or so.  It would be a real PITA to pick out the whole seam and redo it.

i used a dremel and one of the deburring thin and pointed bits - went fairly fast. I used a thin screwdriver with a cloth and some solvent to clean it really well. after the last post i went and looked - there's about a 4'' portion right in the center where i left the old stuff as it was hard to reach and it was looking good (i was actually taking out good stuff) - well I just saw that it is cracked (at least the paint on top is and i know for sure it wasn't), so i'll have to do that portion as well, the urethane is nice and still has a bit of elasticity. i remembered one thing - it shrinks, so you can leave it a bit higher and once it dries will recess nicely, i didn't know and i did it like the silicone, it shrunk a bit and now there's a small radius under the level of the sheetmetal - no biggie but just keep that in mind, you can leave it a bit higher and just where it meets the metal have it levelled (just so there's no edge).
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Offline dwtaylorpdx

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Re: Still leaks...
« Reply #58 on: February 07, 2010, 08:53:05 AM »
Watch out with RTV and body work, certain kinds give off acids that cause can cause rust when curing.

Dave
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: Still leaks...
« Reply #59 on: February 07, 2010, 01:44:30 PM »
Watch out with RTV and body work, certain kinds give off acids that cause can cause rust when curing.

Dave
Clear Silicone uses citric acid when it dries but this vaporizes as it cures.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."