Author Topic: 2.5L VS. D60  (Read 5423 times)

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Offline neale_rs

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #15 on: January 11, 2010, 02:53:22 PM »
Would it be cheaper to convert to semi-floating?  With 35 spline axles this would probably hold up pretty well.
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Offline jagular7

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #16 on: January 11, 2010, 03:34:54 PM »
Is that a 90* cut down on the shaft or is it some type of taper?

Well if the shaft breaks, simple, pull it out and carry on. That 4-sp Atlas is a 10+:1 so take that back to the shafts.....with all that 4BANG muscle. LOL

Its too bad he can't put manual lockouts on it and let those be the fuse of breaking.

Biggest news to come for a rear axle is a S9. It may be a pretty penny right now, but its built to be powered and manhandled.....
Jagular7
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #17 on: January 11, 2010, 03:45:33 PM »
Looking at the PICS in the ad, there is no radius it's a step with a sharp edge.
I told him to do a 14B. He could swap his D44 front over easily and for cheap.
Scary thing is he wants to run 39.5 inch IROC's  :nono: ::)
Since gearing isn't an issue, I'd definitely go with a a 14 bolt.

I really don't like that step either.  It should have been tapered it to reduce stress.
« Last Edit: January 11, 2010, 04:10:47 PM by Jeffy »
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Offline oldjeep

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #18 on: January 11, 2010, 04:01:36 PM »
Below is a cut and paste of the email I got from the company that made it.

The outer is a 30 spline 1.33 inch and it uses a 30 spline Dana 44 locking hub.  I built the axle this way to two reason.  The biggest is it is a lot cheaper and easier to get the hub and spindles.  The other is the weakest part is the locking hubs which are easy to change, carry spars and are under warranty by Warn.  Please call me at the toll-free number listed below or e-mail me if I can help you further.  Thanks!

LOL, I couldn't keep D44 locking hubs in one piece on a front end.  Sure wouldn't want them on a rear axle.  The fact that the shafts broke before the hubs exploded shows how bad the shafts are.
Chuck P
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #19 on: January 11, 2010, 04:04:52 PM »
LOL, I couldn't keep D44 locking hubs in one piece on a front end.  Sure wouldn't want them on a rear axle.  The fact that the shafts broke before the hubs exploded shows how bad the shafts are.
He had drive flanges.
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Offline FourbangerYJ

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #20 on: January 11, 2010, 04:06:30 PM »
LOL, I couldn't keep D44 locking hubs in one piece on a front end.  Sure wouldn't want them on a rear axle.  The fact that the shafts broke before the hubs exploded shows how bad the shafts are.

He swapped the hubs for some Poly Perf. drive slugs.
He couldn't keep his Waggy D44 alive back there either, with semi float shafts.

Since gearing isn't an issue, I'd definitely go with a a 12 bolt.

I really don't like that step either.  It should have been tapered it to reduce stress.

I thought 12bolt = D44 for strength? plus the 12B is a C-clip.
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #21 on: January 11, 2010, 04:09:25 PM »
He swapped the hubs for some Poly Perf. drive slugs.
He couldn't keep his Waggy D44 alive back there either, with semi float shafts.

I thought 12bolt = D44 for strength? plus the 12B is a C-clip.
Whoops, typo.  I meant 14B.
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Offline FourbangerYJ

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #22 on: January 11, 2010, 08:10:45 PM »
Whadoya think about having some shafts made from these guy's? 4340 should hold up pretty good. The 300M ones would be best but gets pricey. They also have a D60 FF kit avail. It's almost $900 which does not include shafts,drive slugs, brake rotor.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=751145
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Offline FourbangerYJ

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #23 on: January 12, 2010, 02:22:27 PM »
The shaft broke where it steps down. He is having some Chromo's made. If it fails he said he will convert it to 35 spline thru out.
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #24 on: January 12, 2010, 02:59:33 PM »
The shaft broke where it steps down. He is having some Chromo's made. If it fails he said he will convert it to 35 spline thru out.
Can they step down the shaft at least?  Seems that he's really no stronger then when he had the SJ D44 rear.  Maybe try to move the weak point to the U-joints instead?
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Offline aw12345

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #25 on: January 12, 2010, 03:44:21 PM »
Cheapest best bet would be to find a junkyard 14bolt have the spindels cut off then use those and the hubs and brakes from there you can use plain 35 spline shafts or chromos and be done with it keep it simple stupid . Dana 60 and 14 bolt full floaters use compatible brakes and hubs. The biggest pain with most dana 60's is that the spindle hole isn't big enough for a 35 spline shaft. The better part of a dana 60 is compared to a 14 bolt is that the pumkin is much smaller it hangs only 1" lower than a dana 44
14 bolt pumkin is a hell of a lot bigger, other than that its a very strong axle
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Offline FourbangerYJ

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #26 on: January 12, 2010, 04:08:28 PM »
The shaft broke where it steps down. He is having some Chromo's made. If it fails he said he will convert it to 35 spline thru out.

Correcting myself here. It broke 2 inches from the end of the shaft (30 spline side)

Can they step down the shaft at least?  Seems that he's really no stronger then when he had the SJ D44 rear.  Maybe try to move the weak point to the U-joints instead?
I don't know who is making his shafts. They have to be better than the ones that came with it.
I would agree with the strength not being stronger that what he had.
In the long run his great deal will cost him a lot more.
The weak link should be the hubs that he swapped out for drive flanges.
Knowing John he will break the new shafts fairly quickly.

Personally I think I would do a LP 9 inch with 35 spline shafts.

Like Art says the 60's are nice but getting the 35 spline stuff to fit is $$. I do like the 14B but I really don't like the massive center section. Strong as a mule thou!!
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #27 on: January 12, 2010, 06:22:21 PM »
Correcting myself here. It broke 2 inches from the end of the shaft (30 spline side)
I don't know who is making his shafts. They have to be better than the ones that came with it.
I would agree with the strength not being stronger that what he had.
In the long run his great deal will cost him a lot more.
The weak link should be the hubs that he swapped out for drive flanges.
Knowing John he will break the new shafts fairly quickly.

Personally I think I would do a LP 9 inch with 35 spline shafts.

Like Art says the 60's are nice but getting the 35 spline stuff to fit is $$. I do like the 14B but I really don't like the massive center section. Strong as a mule thou!!
I would put the hubs back on even with cro-moly shafts.  In the video it looks like the shaft snapped because of the torque from the gearing and not a shock load.

You can shave a 14B a lot if you're willing.  They're dime a dozen and don't carry the premium like the D60 does.
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Offline FourbangerYJ

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #28 on: January 12, 2010, 06:45:28 PM »
I would put the hubs back on even with cro-moly shafts.  In the video it looks like the shaft snapped because of the torque from the gearing and not a shock load.

You can shave a 14B a lot if you're willing.  They're dime a dozen and don't carry the premium like the D60 does.

Good advice, don't think he will take it.
Hard to say on the breakage. You can't see the driver side. The pass. side was not bound up at all. Musta been the driver side that broke. The Gatekeeper has snapped many shafts and U joints.
Scott~

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Offline Jeffy

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #29 on: January 12, 2010, 08:00:31 PM »
Have any picts of the removed shaft?
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