Author Topic: 2.5L VS. D60  (Read 5422 times)

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Offline FourbangerYJ

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2.5L VS. D60
« on: January 10, 2010, 10:03:28 PM »
http://sharing.theflip.com/session/383c6045a8c29ff4b3830e4ca5751b1b/video/9148119

This is a guy in my club at Calico over the weekend. He just put in the rear D60. He bought it off E-bay. It's a full float that has 35 spline shafts at the diff but 30 splines at the hub.  :confused: I told him to take it easy since its really a 44/60. He didn't realize the shafts necked down  until he bought some drive slugs for it. He was braking the Waggy D44 he had back there and thought for some reason this set up would last a life time.  :nono:

He has a 90 2.5/AX5,AA4speed and 5.38's. 215:1
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Offline FourbangerYJ

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #1 on: January 10, 2010, 10:08:23 PM »
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DANA-60-FULL-FLOAT-DISC-BRAKE-REAR-AXLE-KIT-NEW-PARTS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53d7ef696fQQitemZ360105077103QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Here is the ad he got the D60 from. Notice it does not say anything about the shafts being 35 spline on one end and 30 on the other. Look at the PIC close and you can see where it necks down. Not sure what grade steel they used for the shaft.
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #2 on: January 10, 2010, 10:46:24 PM »
Should have stuck with SF 35 splines.

Those shafts are definitely tapered.   :uhoh:
« Last Edit: January 10, 2010, 10:47:28 PM by Jeffy »
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Offline sharpxmen

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #3 on: January 10, 2010, 10:57:30 PM »
that sucks, he would've been better off buying cromoly shafts for his 44
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drunkencityworker

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #4 on: January 11, 2010, 05:57:26 AM »
I know I am pretty new to this but I never saw any shafts that look like that.

Offline Jeffy

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2010, 01:06:35 PM »
I know I am pretty new to this but I never saw any shafts that look like that.
It's common for D60's to be necked down to 1.30" 30 spline in some applications.  Most FF's are 30 spline, IIRC.  You'll also find many front D60's with necked down stub shafts as well.  These are 3/4 Ton, IIRC.  I haven't seen a rear hybrid though.  Strange that they would even make that.
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Offline neale_rs

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #6 on: January 11, 2010, 01:19:27 PM »
Strange.  He'll probably be able to upgrade to 35 splines on both ends but what a hassle!  Not a bad price on the axle kit though...
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Offline sharpxmen

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #7 on: January 11, 2010, 02:11:10 PM »
Strange.  He'll probably be able to upgrade to 35 splines on both ends but what a hassle!  Not a bad price on the axle kit though...

he'll need to upgrade the hubs/floater kit as well so really another pile of money on top of what the axles would cost.

EDIT: if that's even available - i have no idea
« Last Edit: January 11, 2010, 02:12:00 PM by sharpxmen »
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
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Offline FourbangerYJ

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #8 on: January 11, 2010, 02:24:00 PM »
he'll need to upgrade the hubs/floater kit as well so really another pile of money on top of what the axles would cost.

EDIT: if that's even available - i have no idea

Aftermarket shafts would be best, 35 spline on each end. Some 4130 and 300M are avail. But ya the spindle,hubs/driveflanges would need to be purchased which for the D60 stuff is $$.
On that housing I think the bearing ends need to be cut off and some larger bearing ends put on. Not sure a 1.5 inch shaft would fit thru the D44 size bearing.
It's common for D60's to be necked down to 1.30" 30 spline in some applications.  Most FF's are 30 spline, IIRC.  You'll also find many front D60's with necked down stub shafts as well.  These are 3/4 Ton, IIRC.  I haven't seen a rear hybrid though.  Strange that they would even make that.
I emailed the company, he said it was to save money, and put the weak link at the Warn hub. Which he said would be a warranty claim if they failed. But John added drive flanges which put the weak link on the shaft. With the price of the kit I don't think the shaft material is all that top notch. Maybe 1541H... but I doubt it.
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #9 on: January 11, 2010, 02:34:25 PM »
On that housing I think the bearing ends need to be cut off and some larger bearing ends put on. Not sure a 1.5 inch shaft would fit thru the D44 size bearing.I emailed the company, he said it was to save money, and put the weak link at the Warn hub. Which he said would be a warranty claim if they failed. But John added drive flanges which put the weak link on the shaft. With the price of the kit I don't think the shaft material is all that top notch. Maybe 1541H... but I doubt it.
So that's a D60 center with D44 outers?  The deal doesn't seem like much of a deal.  He might be able to find bearings that have the same OD but with the larger ID if he's lucky.
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Offline FourbangerYJ

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #10 on: January 11, 2010, 02:40:25 PM »
So that's a D60 center with D44 outers?  The deal doesn't seem like much of a deal.  He might be able to find bearings that have the same OD but with the larger ID if he's lucky.
Everything is D60 but the hubs, spindles,and the bearings for that.
Also it does not come with a carrier or R&P. Those you buy on your own or from them at a extra cost.
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #11 on: January 11, 2010, 02:42:49 PM »
Everything is D60 but the hubs, spindles,and the bearings for that.
Also it does not come with a carrier or R&P. Those you buy on your own or from them at a extra cost.
I guess the deal isn't too bad but those little things sure add up quickly.
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Offline aw12345

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #12 on: January 11, 2010, 02:43:10 PM »
They did all this because a stock dana 60 will not fit 35 spine shafts through the stock spindle end. There are a couple of fixes a good axle place could make a nice hyvrid have chevy 14 bolt spindles welded on then use the chevy hubs and rotors and chromemolly 35 spline shafts for a full floater HD dana 60 or Dana 70 axle and all is well.
There might also be a problem with the edge of the necked down shafts if it was done right with a nice radius it might live. All in all this is a piss poor setup though
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Offline FourbangerYJ

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #13 on: January 11, 2010, 02:46:39 PM »
They did all this because a stock dana 60 will not fit 35 spine shafts through the stock spindle end. There are a couple of fixes a good axle place could make a nice hyvrid have chevy 14 bolt spindles welded on then use the chevy hubs and rotors and chromemolly 35 spline shafts for a full floater HD dana 60 or Dana 70 axle and all is well.
There might also be a problem with the edge of the necked down shafts if it was done right with a nice radius it might live. All in all this is a piss poor setup though
Looking at the PICS in the ad, there is no radius it's a step with a sharp edge.
I told him to do a 14B. He could swap his D44 front over easily and for cheap.
Scary thing is he wants to run 39.5 inch IROC's  :nono: ::)
Scott~

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Offline FourbangerYJ

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Re: 2.5L VS. D60
« Reply #14 on: January 11, 2010, 02:50:30 PM »
Below is a cut and paste of the email I got from the company that made it.

The outer is a 30 spline 1.33 inch and it uses a 30 spline Dana 44 locking hub.  I built the axle this way to two reason.  The biggest is it is a lot cheaper and easier to get the hub and spindles.  The other is the weakest part is the locking hubs which are easy to change, carry spars and are under warranty by Warn.  Please call me at the toll-free number listed below or e-mail me if I can help you further.  Thanks!
Scott~

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