Topic: good price for a dana 44

[Bounty Hunter]

There's nothing wrong with spacers when properly installed, I've ran them for several years.

I'll soon have Isuzu d44's on both my Jeeps, getting ready to install one in my MJ when the 4.3L goes in.

I run a Waggy d44 front but will be building a 3/4t Ford d44 narrowed to run Waggy shafts for the MJ.  This will give the benefit of thicker axletubes and a high pinion center chunk.  I'll run the same Waggy/GM 6-lug outers.  Building the same axle to replace the Waggy d44 in the YJ as well.

[4BangerTJ]

Spacers are fine if you get a decent set. As for swappin the dana 30 out......from what I have heard and seen they are a fairly stout axle unless you are running bigger the 35s or 37s and they take a 4.88 gear set so I fnd no need or worry about swapping mine out.

[No Luck]

I won't put any money into a TJ LP-30, get a HP-30 out of a cherokee

[Bounty Hunter]

Spacers are fine if you get a decent set. As for swappin the dana 30 out......from what I have heard and seen they are a fairly stout axle unless you are running bigger the 35s or 37s and they take a 4.88 gear set so I fnd no need or worry about swapping mine out.

4.88 isn't low enough for 35" or 37" tires, and the small unit bearings won't last very long with the leverage exerted by that size tire.

And what do you consider a decent set of spacers?  Have you seen spacers fail due to faulty construction or faulty installation?

[sharpxmen]

Re: Spacers

the rims (wheels) on our wranglers are center supported, i think moving to spacers would make them stud supported (not sure if my terminology is correct, but hope you understand what i mean) - maybe that's where the difference is and maybe there are spacers that use center support, dunno (never used spacers myself)

[4BangerTJ]

I agree that the cherokee 30 is more stout I'm just saying for someone running the average which is 33s maybe 35s its ok. And 4.88s do plenty fine with 35s for all around driving.

[No Luck]

not only is it more stout but it help gets your drive up out of the way, win win

[Jeffy]

I agree that the cherokee 30 is more stout I'm just saying for someone running the average which is 33s maybe 35s its ok. And 4.88s do plenty fine with 35s for all around driving.

Only if you're not in a hurry.  for 35's 5.38's make a big difference.

[VA_YJ]

Some more thoughts if you are considering the 8.8: The super 88 kit for the 8.8 is designed for Jeeps.  It uses a Ford 9" bearing at the end of the shafts and longer shafts to restore the stock width.  The axle flanges are stronger and are drilled for both 5 on 4.5 and 5 on 5.5 patterns.  This means that if you want to upgrade your front axle to a dana 44 in the future (think lower gears), you can run 5 on 5.5 front and rear.  It also eliminates the c-clips and provide a upgrade to chrome moly axles.  Cost is about $600 (4x4 group buy).

The axle tubes on the 8.8 are larger and thicker than the 35 or the 44.  This will make the rear of your jeep set up a little higher - so you'll need some pucks up front to level your rig.  As some have pointed out, you will need to weld the tubes to the hogshead as the three little plug welds on each side just don't cut it.  Mine has a truss as well.

I bought a wrecked Explorer, sold the engine and few other parts and got my 8.8 for nothing.

[Jeffy]

Re: Spacers

the rims (wheels) on our wranglers are center supported, i think moving to spacers would make them stud supported (not sure if my terminology is correct, but hope you understand what i mean) - maybe that's where the difference is and maybe there are spacers that use center support, dunno (never used spacers myself)

Well most aftermarket wheels are lug-centric.  Meaning they are centered and supported by the lugs.  Hub-centric wheels sit against the axle flange and are centered and supported by that.

Optimally, you'd want to extend the lugs then have spacers that slide into the longer lugs.  This is how it's done on race cars as well as sports cars like the Porsche.  The adapter style spacers are usually a minimum of 1.5" and are bolted to the axle flange then the wheels are bolted with a second set of lugs to the adapter.  These aren't really recommended for heavy use as the adapter transmits torque to the wheels and are only as strong as the material used to make the adapter.  They can also loosen from the axle but be tight at the wheel so you would want to check them more often which would require removing the wheel.

[stan98tj]

There's nothing wrong with spacers when properly installed, I've ran them for several years.

what brand spacer do you use? When running an 8.8, is the height increase in the rear noticable enough to actually require a spacer to level it out. Im assuming we are talking about a body spacer up front.
Im only thinking of changing out the rear axle and keep the dana 30 up front. I think the 30 can hold up to the 33s even if i put in a locker. Since i want to keep this as my daily driver im gonna keep the regear under 4.88 so i think ill be ok with just a rear axle upgrade and 33s.

[sharpxmen]

what brand spacer do you use? When running an 8.8, is the height increase in the rear noticable enough to actually require a spacer to level it out. Im assuming we are talking about a body spacer up front.

he's talking about wheel spacers (to make the axle wider so it matches the width of the front axle).

[stan98tj]

he's talking about wheel spacers (to make the axle wider so it matches the width of the front axle).

yes wheel spacers. like spidetrack spacers etc...
if i am going to put in a more narrow axle i figure i will need spacers to push the wheels back out again.

[Bounty Hunter]

what brand spacer do you use?

I use a generic set I picked up used, there's no brand name and they're not anodized like the Spidertrax nor are they hub-centric.  I used loctite on the inside lugs and haven't had a problem wheeling it hard with my 36" TSL's.  Properly installed, they're no different than wheels with 1.25" less backspacing.

The 8.8 is has approx .5" larger diameter axletubes, so depending on any difference in brackets, you're only looking at about .25" height difference over stock.  You can always level the front out with a pair of stock coil isolators at about .5".

[stan98tj]

I'll soon have Isuzu d44's on both my Jeeps, getting ready to install one in my MJ when the 4.3L goes in.

is there any way to tell the gearing on those isuzu/honda d44s without popping the cover and counting? I've read many of them came with 4.56 gears, which is the gearing id like to get to. would save some $$ to get the rear end already geared to what i want.