Topic: "DIY Jeep painting and color matching" Follow up

[Jesse-James]

So why not just spray it with hammered black and be done?

[aw12345]

I bet the paint swelled up and wrinkled and so forth would look like crap.

[Jeffy]

So why not just spray it with hammered black and be done?

That's what I'd do...

[chrisfranklin]

So why not just spray it with hammered black and be done?

That's what I'd do...

The hammered is oil-based.  Still no good over this water-based Rustoleum Painter's Touch primer crap. 

I could do the hammered, but I'd still have to remove the water-based primer before applying. I've already got about $150 worth of decent oil-based polyurethane and clearcoat that I was going to roll on and sand, so I am going to strip the primer, redo with oil-based primer and keep going.

[aw12345]

Chris have you asked the paint store if there is a sealer available sometimes you can apply a sealer later in between 2 incompatible paint layers to make it work. If available it would save you a ton of work.
Check at some automotive paint/ body repair supply stores

[Jeffy]

The hammered is oil-based.  Still no good over this water-based Rustoleum Painter's Touch primer crap. 

I could do the hammered, but I'd still have to remove the water-based primer before applying. I've already got about $150 worth of decent oil-based polyurethane and clearcoat that I was going to roll on and sand, so I am going to strip the primer, redo with oil-based primer and keep going.

Hammerite (the real stuff, not sure about Rustolium brand) doesn't need a primer.

[aw12345]

Seems to me it is disolving and bubbling up his primer

[chrisfranklin]

Seems to me it is disolving and bubbling up his primer

Not quite at the stage where the primer is bubbling up or anything, Art (which is good)
I'll ask around and see if I can find a sealer I can use as a barrier.  I need to use a sealer anyway, technically. 

Water based paints/primers are apparently softer than oil based paints and will expand and contract differently.  You end up getting cracks, etc.  Even with the sealer, given the nearly ever-present California sun, I could still be looking at trouble throwing a water-based primer product in the mix.

[aw12345]

I think a lot of that depends on how thick you applied the primer if its a pretty thin coat in should not shrink to much. Now if you put it on thick to make up for surface inperfections it will shrink no matter what kinda primer/ filler you used

[chrisfranklin]

I may go the sealer route like Art suggested.  There are a variety of primer/sealers that are latex water-based but state that you can use oil or water based paints over them (companies are probably like, "oh yeah, you can 'use' them over oil based paints...didn't say that the results would hold up for long, though  ")  Anyway, Kilz and a few other brands claim to allow for this. I'll check with an auto paint store to see what other products are out there.

[chrisfranklin]

I went to a paint/autopaint store in Burbank.  They recommended using "Bullseye" 1-2-3 by Zinnser.  Its a primer-sealer that is water-based but somehow works underneath or over oil-based paints.  They mixed up a can for me thats in a dark gunmetal grey.

So looks like Art saved the day on that one.  I figured I was looking at 2-3 days removing the existing waterbased primer and then redoing the job with an oil-based primer.  So, thanks Art  

[aw12345]

Well Chris when your Jeep is a nice shiny black and looks purty then its thank you time haha
I learned some of these things from a buddy on Long Island that had a paint/ autobody shop

[Colin]

Okay, so my Jeep is a little worse for wear paint wise, and I've been lurking reading this thread since it was small.

I have a 93' YJ that is currently black, with some serious fading in a couple of places. (More likely than not thin painting from the factory). I just picked up a set of TJ flares for it which I need to sand the green paint off of and repaint black, and I was thinking about doing a full job on the Jeep sometime in the near future.

Reading on all this hammered vs. normal black, and it makes sense to me having the hammered to cover up imperfections... and it really seems to look good from what I've seen. If anyone has a comparison or a picture of the hammered black vs flat black, I would really appreciate seeing it.

But right now I've repainted the front bumper with flat black, and really like the look. I'm going to continue that on my flares, since I need to paint them anyhow.

But trying to decide between the flat (which I like) and the hammered (which I really don't have any experience with)... or even just the good ole gloss black is being tricky for me. Figure you guys, having done it, might have some input.

I don't care too much about making it look showroom... but I want it all the same color without rust or fading easily.

[Jeffy]

Okay, so my Jeep is a little worse for wear paint wise, and I've been lurking reading this thread since it was small.

I have a 93' YJ that is currently black, with some serious fading in a couple of places. (More likely than not thin painting from the factory). I just picked up a set of TJ flares for it which I need to sand the green paint off of and repaint black, and I was thinking about doing a full job on the Jeep sometime in the near future.

Reading on all this hammered vs. normal black, and it makes sense to me having the hammered to cover up imperfections... and it really seems to look good from what I've seen. If anyone has a comparison or a picture of the hammered black vs flat black, I would really appreciate seeing it.

But right now I've repainted the front bumper with flat black, and really like the look. I'm going to continue that on my flares, since I need to paint them anyhow.

But trying to decide between the flat (which I like) and the hammered (which I really don't have any experience with)... or even just the good ole gloss black is being tricky for me. Figure you guys, having done it, might have some input.

I don't care too much about making it look showroom... but I want it all the same color without rust or fading easily.

GO with Hammerite Hammered and be done with it.   

[chrisfranklin]

Sanded down the latex primer, then spent parts of a couple of days masking and applying 2 coats of Bullseye 1-2-3 (its white, but I had it tinted at a Burbank Paint store). Thanks again to Art! 

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